A roundup of restaurants recently reviewed by restaurant critic Phil Vettel.
BISTROT MARGOT (star)(star) 216 S. Washington St., Naperville, 630-778-1944. Like its Old Town parent, this sibling operation in the western suburbs has its bistro act down pat. Red walls and velvet curtains and a white mosaic-tile floor help the restaurant look the part, and chef/owner Joe Doppes’ no-nonsense classic menu does the rest. Recommended: French onion soup, steak frites, whitefish amandine. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $13.50-$19.95. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended weekends. Noise: Conversation-friendly.
CLAIM JUMPER (Satisfactory) 92 Yorktown Center, Lombard, 630-932-4290. Massive timbers and black-and-white photos of grizzled prospectors define the Gold Rush decor of this chain operation, which has but one Illinois outlet (so far). The appetizer list is like a stroll down memory lane with its selection of mozzarella sticks and potato skins; the rest of the menu includes a hefty selection of burgers and sandwiches, plus larger steaks. Recommended: Barbecued ribs and chicken combination. Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $25.95-$29.95. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Accepted. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible.
DEL TORO (star)(star)(star) 1520 N. Damen Ave., 773-252-1500. There’s a lot of bull about this restaurant, and I mean that in a good way. Horn-shaped lights jut aggressively from one wall, another wall boasts an animal-hide cover accented with artistic gashes; undulating curves on the bar and ceiling recall a matador’s cape, as does the back room, swathed in a multitude of red fabrics. Andy Zimmerman’s tapas menu includes just enough traditional dishes to establish credibility, but for the most part steers clear of the tried-and-true. Recommended: Cabrales and date croquettas, sashimi-style scallops, chorizo-stuffed calamari, lamb chops, bread pudding. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., brunch Sun. Tapas prices: $3-$16. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.
FULTON’S ON THE RIVER (star)(star)(star) 315 N. LaSalle St., 312-822-0100. With its riverside location and historic-loft charm, Fulton’s looks every bit the sophisticated steak and seafooder that it sets out to be. The beef is all USDA prime; the seafood, particularly the oysters, is pristine and there’s just enough imagination in the menu to distinguish it from the rest of the pack. Recommended: Oysters, crabcake, tuna Three Ways, lamb chops, bread pudding. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri. Entree prices: $18.95-$46.95. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.
KODA (star)(star) 10352 S. Western Ave., 773-445-5632. Though owners Janice and Patrick Daley have been praised for opening this bistro in the restaurant-deprived Beverly neighborhood, the truth is that Koda would be a welcome addition just about anywhere. Chef Aaron Browning brings a lot of experience to a menu that incorporates French classics with more contemporary dishes, and just about everything sings. Service needs polish, but is certainly friendly and eager enough. Recommended: Tart flambee, scallops over risotto, roasted salmon, chocolate-espresso cake. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun. Entree prices: $14.50-$27. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Not accepted. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, parking lot, no smoking.
MAY STREET MARKET (star)(star)(star) 1132 W. Grand Ave., 312-421-5547. This West Town charmer is a pure delight, from the inviting and beautiful physical space to chef/owner Alexander Cheswick’s clever seasonal-American menu, replete with novel flavor pairings and bereft of been-there-done-that combinations. Recommended: Maytag bleu cheesecake, scallops over black orzo, white-chocolate semifreddo. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri., brunch Sat. Entree prices: $18-$36. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
MEIJI (star)(star)(star) 623 W. Randolph St., 312-887-9999. Arguably Chicago’s finest Japanese restaurant, Meiji appeals to the sushi purist, offering ingredients that competitors disregard (such as fresh wasabi). The interior is frill-free but nevertheless attractive and comfortable, the sake offerings are impressive and even the desserts, which bear an unmistakable Western accent, are worth exploring. Recommended: Meiji gunkan, oysters kampai, hari roll, ginger creme brulee. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri. Prices: Maki rolls $11-$16. Credit cards: A, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
MOSAIC (star) 151 N. Joliet St., Joliet, 815-740-7800. Most casinos’ idea of fine dining is an expensive steakhouse, so credit Harrah’s Joliet Casino (which, admittedly, also is building a steakhouse) for this something-for-everyone restaurant, which isn’t overly fancy but is way nicer than any buffet. The dining room is wildly colorful and spacious, service is almost obsessively friendly and Lam Vongsakoun’s approachable menu still has room for some spicy dishes and the occasional flourish. It’s decent for the most part, and the desserts are especially good. Recommended: Pot stickers, Key lime martini. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Sun. Entree prices: $13.95-$25.95. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Accepted. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, complimentary valet parking.
REDSTONE AMERICAN GRILL (star) 13 Lincoln Ct., Oakbrook Terrace, 630-268-0313. Roaring gas fireplaces greet customers even before they reach the front doors of this Western-theme restaurant, including the flames dancing near the outdoor deck. The something-for-everyone-menu offers plenty of food for your dollars. Recommended: Parmesan-crusted halibut. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Sat., brunch Sun. Entree prices: $16-$33. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Accepted. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.
RIVA (star)(star) 2020 Calamos Ct., Naperville, 630-718-1010. This west-suburban Riva may not have the lake view (though there’s a nice landscaped pond to peer over) or city skyline vistas of the original Riva on Navy Pier, but with Charles Weber running the kitchen, the food out west might be a little better than the food downtown. Weber’s plates are picture-perfect, and every dish contains just a little more than you expect. Recommended: Bacon-wrapped scallops in tomatillo sauce, Key lime pie. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri. Entree prices: $17.95-$40.95. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended weekends. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, smoking at bar only.
TRATTORIA GEMELLI (star)(star) 3755 Grand Blvd., Brookfield, 708-387-2445. A chummy trattoria with very good food and a staff that does just about everything right, Trattoria Gemelli is a big hit in restaurant-starved Brookfield. Chef Fiorenza Tasinato has a knack of making simple dishes sing with flavor. Recommended: Eggplant Parmesan, Gemelli pizza, veal saltimbocca, cannoli “martini.” Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sat. Entree prices: $11-$20. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Not accepted. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, no smoking.
———-
Ratings key:
OUTSTANDING (star)(star)(star)(star)
EXCELLENT (star)(star)(star)
VERY GOOD (star)(star)
GOOD (star)
SATISFACTORY
UNSATISFACTORY
Reviews are based on no fewer than two visits. The reviewer makes every effort to remain anonymous. Meals are paid for by the Tribune.
