A roundup of restaurants recently reviewed by restaurant critic Phil Vettel.
CARNIVALE (star)(star)(star) 702 W. Fulton Market, 312-850-5005. Jerry Kleiner’s multi-level pan-Latin restaurant has the look of a hot nightclub and the price tag of a neighborhood eatery. Don’t call the melange of Caribbean and Central-American cuisine “Nuevo Latino,” however; chef Mark Mendez prefers “Latin soul food,” as his cooking is simpler and more homespun than some of the fusion that nuevo embraces. Recommended: Fluke ceviche, beet salad, rum-glazed pork shoulder, Guatemalan chicken, mango upside-down cake. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $14-$35. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, $5 valet parking, smoking in bar only.
CUATRO (star)(star)(star) 2030 S. Wabash Ave., 312-842-8856. A contemporary South Loop spot with a nightlife vibe, Cuatro offers sophisticated surroundings and multifaceted nuevo Latino cooking. Live music and livelier cocktails are major pluses, as is the generally attentive service. If you’re in the neighborhood for lunch, tortas gigantes are very satisfying, and the Bossa Nova brunch is accompanied by live music. Recommended: Salmon-scallops ceviche, moqueca do mar, pork chop, chocolate-truffle martini. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Tue.-Fri., brunch Sun. Entree prices: $12-$27. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended weekends. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
CUSTOM HOUSE (star)(star)(star) 500 S. Dearborn St., 312-523-0200. Shawn McClain, who has wowed diners with his seafood-focused Spring and veggie-centric Green Zebra, turns his skills to roasted meats in this handsome Printer’s Row spot inside Hotel Blake. The menu and location ensure a pricier dining experience than McClain’s fans have grown accustomed to, but lovingly handled meats and an array of intriguing side dishes–as well as pastry chef Elissa Narow’s desserts–justify the expense again and again. Recommended: Beef tartare, sweetbreads, duck breast, striped bass, baked Alaska. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Sat. Entree prices: $18-$38. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended weekends. Noise: Conversation friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible (through hotel entrance), valet parking, no smoking.
DEL TORO (star)(star)(star) 1520 N. Damen Ave., 773-252-1500. There’s a lot of bull about this restaurant, and I mean that in a good way. Horn-shaped lights jut aggressively from one wall, another wall boasts an animal-hide cover accented with artistic gashes; undulating curves on the bar and ceiling recall a matador’s cape, as does the back room, swathed in a multitude of red fabrics. Andy Zimmerman’s tapas menu includes just enough traditional dishes to establish credibility, but for the most part steers clear of the tried-and-true. The joint is too noisy, but what tapas bar isn’t? Recommended: Cabrales and date croquettas, sashimi-style scallops, chorizo-stuffed calamari, rainbow trout, lamb chops, bread pudding. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., brunch Sun. Tapas prices: $3-$16. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.
DI PESCARA (star)(star) 2124 Northbrook Ct., Northbrook, 847-498-4321. A success with its North Shore neighbors, Di Pescara might be the ideal shopping-mall restaurant. The cuisine is simple and approachable, the dining rooms are spacious without being unbearably noisy (though hardly quiet) and the menu is packed with budget-friendly innovations, the best of which is the “A-List” of $5 glasses of wine matched to specific entrees. And if you only have room at meal’s end for one or two bites of dessert, that’s exactly what you can order, as several full-size sweets are also offered in one- and two-bite portions. Recommended: Artichoke all’ Marco, shrimp Pescara, almond-crusted whitefish, Pescatore. Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $15.95-$28.95. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
IL MULINO NEW YORK (star)(star) 1150 N. Dearborn St., 312-440-8888. This NYC import tries to wow its patrons with ritual and extravagance, from the showy, chandelier-filled dining rooms to the myriad bits of tableside ministrations applied by the tuxedoed waitstaff. It’s all a bit over the top and, not surprisingly, so are the prices, as evidenced by $23 langoustine-and-risotto appetizers and similarly eye-popping tariffs for whole fish and veal dishes. High-quality ingredients are pluses; minuses include too-close tables and the lack of a suitable waiting area (a downstairs lounge is under construction). Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri. Entree prices: $24.75-$48. Credit cards: A, DC, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Valet parking, no smoking.
MAY STREET MARKET (star)(star)(star) 1132 W. Grand Ave., 312-421-5547. This West Town charmer is a pure delight, from the inviting and beautiful physical space to chef/owner Alexander Cheswick’s clever seasonal-American menu, replete with novel flavor pairings and bereft of been-there-done-that combinations. The wine list, teeming with interesting choices, is priced very fairly, and offers most of its bottles at $40 or less. Recommended: Maytag bleu cheesecake, carrot-lemongrass soup, scallops over black orzo, white-chocolate semifreddo. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri., brunch Sat. Entree prices: $18-$36. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
MEIJI (star)(star)(star) 623 W. Randolph St., 312-887-9999. Arguably Chicago’s finest Japanese restaurant, Meiji appeals to the sushi purist, offering ingredients that competitors disregard (such as fresh wasabi). The interior is frill-free but nevertheless attractive and comfortable, the sake offerings are impressive and even the desserts, which bear an unmistakable Western accent, are worth exploring. Recommended: Meiji gunkan, oysters kampai, hari roll, ginger creme brulee. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri. Prices: Maki rolls $11-$16. Credit cards: A, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
MICHAEL (star)(star)(star) 64 Green Bay Rd., Winnetka, 847-441-3100. If you share chef/owner Michael Lachowicz’ love for classic French cuisine, chances are you’ll love his restaurant as well. Pommes puree served tableside from silver pans, an abundance of luxury ingredients–Michael knows how to coddle his guests, though he manages to do so at a rather approachable price. Recommended: Salad lyonnaise, seared foie gras, grilled-fish duo, guinea hen, fallen chocolate souffle. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri. Entree prices: $23-$25. Credit cards: A, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible; complimentary valet parking; no smoking.
QUARTINO (star)(star)(star) 626 N. State St., 312-698-5000. Perhaps the best of Chicago’s small-plate Italian concepts, Quartino abounds with $7 pastas, $5 salads and $12 entrees–more than confirming its “you can’t afford not to eat here” motto. You sacrifice white tablecloths to eat like this, and meal timing is nonexistent (dishes arrive in the order they’re ready, and just about everything comes up quickly), but the menu is ambitiously large and the food is uniformly impressive. And the atmosphere, which juxtaposes old-fashioned deli cases with plasma TVs flashing subtitled Italian cinema, is invigorating, though noisy. Recommended: Fava bean panino, grappa-cured salmon, bigoli with duck ragu, asparagus risotto, profiteroles. Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $12. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, $5 valet parking, kitchen open until 1 a.m.
RHAPSODY (star)(star)(star) 65 E. Adams St., 312-786-9911. Rhapsody is a restaurant attached to Symphony Center that has quietly become one of the best fine-dining options in the Loop, thanks to the unique stylings of Chef Doran Payne, who insinuates the flavors of his native St. Lucia into his cooking. He makes liberal use of fruit, for example, though the food reflects Payne’s European training more than anything. An aggressive beverage program and attentive service are all pluses. Built as part of Symphony Center, Rhapsody serves first and foremost to feed the CSO subscribers enroute to performances, but Payne’s food makes Rhapsody a worthwhile destination even when–make that especially when–the performance space is dark. Recommended: Duck pastrami salad, gnocchi with shrimp, halibut with passionfruit butter, chocolate Symphony. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri. Entree prices: $21-$28. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
SCHWA (star)(star)(star) 1466 N. Ashland Ave., 773-252-1466. Chef/owner Michael Carlson’s food is imaginative and artistic, reflective of his work under uber-chef Grant Achatz. At Schwa, however, there is no army of servers (as there are at Achatz’ Alinea) attending to your every whim. Indeed, there is only Carlson and sous Nathan Klingball more often than not, which means the chef or sous will be the person taking your order. (Then again, there are only 28 seats, and Carlson is stingy with his reservations, which are a must.) Compensating for this lack of pampering is relatively lower prices: Patrons choose between a three-course menu (with choices) for $55 or the grand, nine-course chef’s tasting for $90. And bring your favorite wine or wines; Schwa has no liquor license and Carlson does not plan to obtain one. Which is yet another reason you’ll save money at this unique dining experience. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat. Prices: Three-course dinner $55, nine-course $90. Credit cards: M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: No smoking.
SOLA (star)(star)(star) 3868 N. Lincoln Ave., 773-327-3868. Chef Carol Wallack is flying high with her first solo (or sola) effort, a contemporary American dining room whose menu gives full play to Wallack’s surfer-girl fondness for Californian and Hawaiian flavors. Interesting textures highlight the kitchen creations, served in a sophisticated dining room loaded with light wood and neutral tones. Friendly and precise service is a particular strength. Recommended: Lobster-shiitake pot stickers, crab cakes, miso black cod, duck breast, citrus pound cake. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Thu.-Sat., brunch Sat.-Sun. Entree prices: $14-$26. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
TED’S MONTANA GRILL (Satisfactory) 1811 Tower Drive, Glenview, 847-729-1117. The “Ted” in this Rocky-Mountain-theme eatery is media mogul Ted Turner, and some of his farm-raised bison make it on the menu here, an attractive dining room with tiled floors and Mission-style furnishings. Nearly every steak and burger can be made with beef or bison, the latter leaner and milder in flavor but less-forgiving of overcooking (order your bison one level cooler than you customarily take it, to be safe). The ambitious beverage program includes boutique soft drinks as well as a price-friendly wine list. Recommended: Onion rings, Swiss burger, hangar steak. Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $10.99-$23.99. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Not accepted. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, no smoking.
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Ratings key:
OUTSTANDING (star)(star)(star)(star)
EXCELLENT (star)(star)(star)
VERY GOOD (star)(star)
GOOD (star)
SATISFACTORY
UNSATISFACTORY
Reviews are based on no fewer than two visits. The reviewer makes every effort to remain anonymous. Meals are paid for by the Tribune.
