In winter, when you want to eat something that warms, fills and satisfies you, a stuffed baked potato can be more welcome than the finest caviar. It makes a perfect companion to grilled or broiled steak or other meat, poultry or seafood. And, depending on the potato’s size and what you mix in, it can become–to use an overused phrase that really does make sense in this case–a meal in itself.
For any baked potato, success starts with the potato itself. The best for baking and stuffing are those known as the Russet Burbank, developed in the early 1870s by the great American botanist Luther Burbank. High in starch, low in moisture and thick-skinned, it develops a crisp surface and fluffy interior when baked. Because this is the type most widely grown in the great potato state of Idaho, it also has come to be known as the Idaho potato–or just simply the baking potato.
Whatever you call them, look for potatoes that seem heavy for their size, and are dry-skinned, solid and free from blemishes or green spots.
The next key to success is how you bake it. Some people swear by wrapping potatoes individually in foil. While that keeps the potatoes extra-moist and cooks them faster, it also results in softer, less appetizing skins. Instead, I bake my potatoes on a bed of coarse rock salt, which helps them develop delicious, crispy skins, and also holds the stuffed potatoes steady during the final stage of baking.
While it takes a bit of time to scoop out the baked potatoes’ flesh, mash it with other ingredients, and then bake them again, this is easily done in stages. If you like, stuff the potatoes and refrigerate them until about 30 minutes before serving. Then, instead of baking them for the final few minutes as instructed in the recipe, warm them up first in a 325-degree oven for 20 minutes, then raise the temperature to about 400 degrees for another 10 minutes to crisp the skins.
Once you’ve tried this recipe, you’ll agree that the little extra effort is worth it. Start using your imagination to vary the stuffing with sausage or smoked fish, other seasonal vegetables, different cheeses or whatever else inspires you.
Stuffed twice-baked potatoes with ham, mushrooms and gruyere cheese
Preparation time: 35 minutes
Cooking time: 1 hour
Yield: 6 servings
Rock salt, see note
6 large baking potatoes
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature
1/2 pound thinly sliced cooked ham, cut into 1-inch strips
1/4 pound button mushrooms, thinly sliced
1/2 teaspoon sea salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1/4 cup creme fraiche or sour cream
8 ounces shredded Gruyere, Swiss or Cheddar cheese
1. Heat oven to 450 degrees. Spread a bed of rock salt about 1/4-inch thick on a baking tray large enough to hold the potatoes without touching. Place the potatoes on the rock salt. Bake until fork-tender, about 45 minutes. Remove the baking sheet from the oven, leaving the oven on. Set potatoes aside to cool slightly on the rock salt.
2. Heat a large skillet over high heat; add the olive oil. Heat 30 seconds; add 2 tablespoons of the butter. Cook until the butter starts to foam, about 30 seconds. Add the ham and mushrooms; cook, stirring, until mushrooms soften, about 2 minutes. Transfer the ham and mushrooms to a small mixing bowl; set aside.
3. Cut off the top quarter of potato; reserve top. Scoop out the potato flesh leaving 1/2-inch shell. Transfer the flesh to a large mixing bowl. Return the potatoes and reserved top to the baking tray with rock salt. Repeat with all potatoes.
4. Mash the potatoes with a potato masher; season with the salt and pepper to taste. Mix in the creme fraiche and remaining tablespoon of the butter, mashing until thoroughly blended. Stir in the reserved ham, mushrooms and 2 tablespoons of the cheese.
5. Raise the oven heat to 500 degrees. Carefully spoon the potato mixture back into each potato shell, mounding above the rim of each potato. Sprinkle the remaining cheese on top of the filled potatoes, dividing equally. Place tops on the rock salt around the side of the baking pan. Return to the oven; bake until the potatoes are heated through and the cheese has melted, about 8 minutes. Transfer the potatoes to a serving platter; place the tops loosely over the potatoes.
Note: Rock salt is available with baking supplies in the supermarket.
Nutrition information per serving:
622 calories, 40% of calories from fat, 28 g fat, 14 g saturated fat, 87 mg cholesterol, 64 g carbohydrates, 30 g protein, 1,379 mg sodium, 7 g fiber
