A shelf tag hanging in front of a bottle speaks of the “complex, rich bouquet,” while another mentions the “notes of bread, toasted grains and mildly sweet herbs.”
This isn’t the fine wine aisle of Binny’s Beverage Depot. It’s the section of the store devoted to imported and craft beers, and the references are to different formulations of hops and barley.
Michael Binstein, owner of the 18-location, upscale liquor-store chain, has seen a dramatic change in beer-buying habits. Among the 30 top-selling beers at Binny’s, imports outsell domestics, 58 percent to 42 percent. To accommodate changing customer palates, Binstein hangs beer reviews from shelves and has hired specialty beer experts to scope out the best products.
“The battle is over, and imports have won,” Binstein said. “Ten years ago, Miller and Bud had a chokehold on the whole category. [Today,] the customer is looking for what’s new, interesting and different and is more willing to experiment. [Miller and Budweiser] are battling a common foe, the rising surge of imports and specialty beers.”
Customers at specialty shops like Binny’s aren’t exactly mainstream grab-a-six-pack-at-the-convenience-store consumers. But beer-drinker habits have changed enough that the two domestic brewing heavyweights want in on the imported suds action. And their moves will mean more unfamiliar names on the shelves of local liquor stores.
The strategy is simple: If you can’t beat them, join them.
Beginning in February, Anheuser-Busch will become the exclusive U.S. importer for the red-hot Stella Artois brand, as well as Beck’s, Bass Pale Ale, Hoegaarden and Leffe. It already has distribution alliances with Grolsch, Tiger and Kirin.
Until two weeks ago, Anheuser-Busch planned to break new ground by airing a commercial for an import, Grolsch, during the Super Bowl. It changed its mind, however, and ran the spots during NFL playoffs broadcasts.
And, in another indication of just how critical the import segment has become, the St. Louis-based brewer this month inked a deal to handle Czechvar Premium Czech Lager, which already is sold in 30 states through other companies. The pact was arranged despite a century of litigation between Anheuser-Busch and Czech brewer Budejovicky Budvar over who has rights to the “Bud” name. Budvar has been sold for five years in the U.S. under the Czechvar label.
Meanwhile, Miller is tapping further into the 150-brand portfolio of parent company SABMiller. It is expanding distribution of Polish beer Tyskie beyond Chicago and New York. It also will begin importing Aguila, the top Colombian brew; and two from Peru, Cristal and Cusquena. Miller also imports Peroni and Pilsner Urquell.
“We haven’t even come close to tapping into the global brand portfolio of our company,” said Miller spokesman Peter Marino.
Demand for imports is coming from consumers, who crave more robust-tasting beers, and from beer wholesalers, who see sales of domestic beers continuing to slip.
Part of the increase can be attributed to a broader range of product offerings; supermarkets carried almost 10 percent more imported beers last year than they did in 2005.
