A roundup of restaurants recently reviewed by restaurant critic Phil Vettel.
OSTERIA DI TRAMONTO ***
601 N. Milwaukee Ave., Wheeling; 847-777-5608. Chef Rick Tramonto goes rustic Italian in this cavernous but good-looking (the brick-domed ceiling is worth a visit all by itself) restaurant inside the Westin Chicago North Shore hotel. The decor will put you in mind of a Tuscan house of worship. Recommended: Quartet of mozzarella, Tramonto pizza, monkfish osso buco, orange-ricotta cannoli. Open: Breakfast, lunch, dinner Mon.-Sun., brunch Sun. Entree prices: $13.95-$36.95. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
SAGE GRILL **
260 Green Bay Rd., Highwood; 847-433-7005. An attractive American bistro with wide-ranging appeal, Sage Grill has enough high-end dishes to appeal to luxury diners but plenty of options under $20 and a prix-fixe option (four courses, $45), among other customer-friendly touches. And don’t skip Brenda Manfredini’s desserts. Recommended: Balsamic-glazed quail, lobster gnocchi, striped bass, espresso sundae. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $14-$32. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, smoking in bar only.
THE STAINED GLASS ***
1735 Benson Ave., Evanston; 847-864-8600. Rarely do food and wine match so beautifully as they do at this North Shore stunner, where chef Victor Hernandez’ superb contemporary-American food is supported by a fine beverage program that offers wines by the bottle, glass, or flight. Recommended: Foie-gras BLT, baked artichoke, lamb rack with white-truffle creme brulee, chocolate cubed dessert. Open: Dinner Mon., Wed.-Sun. Entree prices $14.75-$29.75. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking weekends, no smoking.
TRAMONTO’S STEAK & SEAFOOD ***
601 N. Milwaukee Ave., Wheeling; 847-777-6575. Chef Rick Tramonto applies a gourmet touch and his trademark showmanship to the steakhouse concept in this dining room in the Westin Chicago North Shore hotel. The menu offers such throwbacks as iceberg-wedge salad and shrimp cocktail, and the shellfish platters are named after characters from “Gilligan’s Island.” All this in a theatrical setting with a 30-foot-tall wine wall, water walls and other eye candy. Recommended: Frog legs, beef tartare, ribeye steak, lemon-meringue tart. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $19-$47. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
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Ratings key:
OUTSTANDING ****
EXCELLENT ***
VERY GOOD **
GOOD *
SATISFACTORY
UNSATISFACTORY
Reviews are based on no fewer than two visits. The reviewer makes every effort to remain anonymous. Meals are paid for by the Tribune.
