Refinishing wood is one way for an ambitious do-it-yourselfer on a tight budget to enhance the look of a home. But this kind of makeover can be hard work and is not for the faint-hearted.
Jim Sutter, who has been refinishing wood for 11 years at JC Wood in Addison, said sometimes people get in over their head and need to be rescued. “We get calls from people who are half done and give up,” he said. “So we send out a crew.”
For those who are ready for the challenge, the fun is about color and creativity.
“What’s really great in this time of design is that everybody is less concerned with what’s fashionable and more with what would make them happy,” said Frank Ponterio, an interior designer who often works on historic restoration and remodeling projects in Chicago.
New colors for trim, windows, doors, furniture and floors can enhance the look of a home, said Mary Lou Kalmus of Designing Edge in Clarendon Hills. Oak, cherry and maple continue to be popular. But there are hundreds more wood colors inspired by exotic woods like the hammered copper look of lacewood from Australia, the tan and deep brown pattern of Mexico’s granadillo, and the red shorea from Southeast Asia that turns a soft gray over time.
Creative stylizing with stain also adds dimension and character to wood, she said. One technique is called distressing or antiquing, which is done by spot sanding or by imprinting the smooth surface by pounding it with hammers, nails, screws and old hardware. Pickling, glazing and color washing involves translucent or light stain that is applied with a sponge or rag and then rubbed off to create the desired patina.
Things have changed. “When I first bought the [refinishing] business, people would say, “Make it look new again. ” Now they’re bringing in new stuff and saying make it look old,” Sutter said.
Often, refinishing is simply done to uncover the original look of the wood, said Gail G. Prauss of Gail Prauss Interior Design Ltd., in Oak Park. “Over all the years, you can imagine how many coats of stain and varnish are covering the wood. It gets to the point where you can’t see the grain of the wood.”
Many do-it-yourselfers take on the challenge of stripping and staining trim and windows sills, said Felipe Rodriguez, a professional refinisher in Chicago for 30 years. But large pieces of furniture and stair bannisters are also common refinishing projects.
The basic process of refinishing wood sounds easy — basically strip away the top layer of color, sand the surface, stain with a new tint, and finish with a protective coating, Rodriguez said. To make it a good experience, first sit down and consider the labor, time and cost that’s involved, he said.
Homeowners sometimes underestimate the amountof labor or their comfort in working on projects involving strong chemicals, Sutter said. For example, expect to put in anywhere from 100 to 150 hours to refinish kitchen cabinets.
Experts stress the basic Boy Scout motto, “be prepared,” when it comes to following the manufacturers’ instructions on cans of paint remover and stain. “Most people don’t read the directions,” Sutter said. Also, be ready with goggles, gloves, scrapers, steel wool and sanding blocks or electric sander.
One of the first steps in any project is choosing the paint and stain remover, which comes in liquid, paste and aerosol form. These removers generally need to be applied to the wood for a specified amount of time before the surface coating can be scraped off.
After scraping, use steel wool, old rags or a scouring pad to further remove the old finish.
A second application of paint remover is sometimes necessary.
Following the recommendations of the manufacturer, wash and clean the wood, and if necessary, lightly sand.
Remember to cover or plug key holes or holes where cabinet hardware has been removed. The hardware can be dipped into the paint remover and cleaned.
To remove stubborn finishes, an electric sander or an electric heater may be used. Once the wood is completely stripped, cleaned and dry, it’s time for staining.
For centuries, natural pigments from plants and minerals were used to make dyes for stain. Iron nails soaked in vinegar created a dark gray or ebony stain, and tobacco and ammonia made a warm brown tint. Regular paint was also used as a stain: it was thinned and applied lightly on the wood.
Today, oil-, alcohol- and water-based stains line the shelf.
– Water-based stains come in a powder that must be mixed with water. They generally come in just a few colors — brown, warm brown and black — and it’s up to the homeowner to blend them to the desired color.
Mix a batch that will be enough for the whole job. Before applying the first layer of stain, lightly wet the wood so that the stain will spread evenly. Use a cloth or paint brush. Rub off excess stain with a lint-free cloth. The stain may appear dry in an hour, but let it dry thoroughly for at least 12 hours before a second coat is applied, if desired.
– Oil stains usually come ready mixed and are classified by a few wood colors. These stains can be mixed to a desired color, as well. They can be lightened by thinning it out with a solvent specified by the manufacturer.
Oil-based stains contain solvents that are considered hazardous so woodworkers are turning to water-based stains. Oil dyes can be applied using a brush or a cloth.
– Alcohol-based stains come in a range of colors and dry in minutes. They are best suited for spray application. They come in powder form and must be mixed to the right color.
– Another option is the wax stain, which is a stain and finish combined in one product and should be applied according to the manufacturer’s directions.
After proper drying time, the stain will need a finish coat for protection. Oil, varnish, polyurethane, shellac, lacquer and water-based finishes differ in their durability and their ease of application so once again, a decision needs to be made.
Oil is easy to apply as it only needs to be wiped onto the surface and allowed to seep into the wood fibers. After waiting a specified time, more oil can be applied and allowed to dry.
Varnish and polyurethane are protective finishes but they are slow drying, which means there’s a greater risk of dust and dirt marring the surface. It is applied with a brush.
Shellac is fast drying but it is not recommended for high-use surfaces such as wood tabletops, chairs and cabinets.
Since not all wood is created equal, there will be times when wood is not meant for refinishing. If it is of poor quality, then there’s a faux wood grain that can be painted on, Ponterio said.
A wooden front door is an often overlooked element when it comes to choosing ways to beautify the home. The door should be preserved and protected from the weather with a fresh coat of stain and finish, said Sutter.
With any job, the do-it-yourselfer should remember not to rush. “Just remember, this [refinishing] really is an art,” he said.
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Covering the territory
How much stain do you need? For a deck, for instance, Cabot Co., which manufactures stain, recommends finding the square footage by multiplying the longest point by the widest point, then adding extra for railings and steps.
For siding, the general square footage can be determined by multiplying the perimeter of your house by the height (be sure to use the highest point).
For inside jobs such as floors and trim, measuring square footage is also the way to go. Smaller projects such as furniture require a half-pint to a pint.
Depending on the stain, a half-pint will provide one coat covering about 30 to 40 square feet, according to Minwax, another manufacturer. Applying two or more coats tends to extend the life of a finish, depending on weathering and other environmental factors.
Buy only as much as you need. Stain tends to degrade over time, especially if it’s been exposed to light, and the tint could be noticeably different than the finish you’re trying to match, even if they came out of the same can.
Stain will cost from a few dollars for a half-pint to $50 for up to a gallon, depending on stain quality, quantity and where you are going to use it.
— McClatchy-Tribune
