A roundup of restaurants recently reviewed by restaurant critic Phil Vettel.
BLUPRINT **
222 Merchandise Mart Plaza; 312-410-9800. Now there’s a reason to visit the Merchandise Mart even when the showrooms are closed. Bluprint, operated by the Blue Plate Catering group (which also operates Rhapsody and Park Grill), is a stylish dining room with artistically plated (but down-to-earth) dishes by executive chef Doran Payne and chef de cuisine Sam Burman. Lunchtimes are busiest, as local workers pile in for halibut-based fish-and-chips or “designer lunch” platters of three simultaneously served courses, but the most interesting fare is at dinner. Christine McCabe’s offbeat desserts are another strong draw. Recommended: Pork “second draft,” crab salad, leg of lamb, roasted halibut, mojito popsicle. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri. Entree prices: $21-$27. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended at lunch. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
BOKA ***
1729 N. Halsted St.; 312-337-6070. Chef Giuseppe Tentori modestly refers to his cooking as “simple,” which might be the case if one were comparing it to that of his former employer (Charlie Trotter) or his next-door neighbor (Alinea). By any other standard, Tentori’s contemporary-American cooking is remarkably nuanced, artistic and clever, whether he’s devising trompe l’oeil caviar from tapioca and squid ink or matching a hash of broccoli and marcona almonds to goat-cheese croquettes. A beautiful interior and knowing, charming service add to the outstanding dining experience. Recommended: Stuffed squid, barramundi. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $19-$38. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
THE GAGE ***
24 S. Michigan Ave.; 312-372-4243. A gastropub is an establishment that combines casual pubby atmosphere and serious food, and this spacious restaurant, across the street from Millennium Park, certainly qualifies. Owner Billy Lawless presides over the chummy bar, Dirk Flanigan produces stellar cooking from a perfect Scotch egg to mildly gamy elk chops, and Hillary Blanchard oversees the imaginative desserts. Recommended: Rabbit salad, Gage burger, lamb duo, sea bream with oxtail, “French toast” dessert. Open: Dinner and lunch daily; brunch Sat.-Sun. Entree prices: $18-$38. Credit cards: A, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, no smoking.
LE LAN ***
749 N. Clark St.; 312-280-9100. The arrival of chef Bill Kim has invigorated and focused the kitchen of this River North restaurant; hot and sour soup becomes haute cuisine in Kim’s hands, as do any number of prosaic sounding, brilliantly executed dishes. Exemplary service and a food-friendly wine list are significant pluses. Recommended: Pork-shrimp spring rolls, tea-smoked duck, mahi-mahi with pineapple-cucumber relish, white kimchi, lemon-coconut creme brulee. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat. Entree prices: $20-$36. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
OTOM **
951 W. Fulton Market, 312-491-5804. Just two doors down from its elder sibling, the acclaimed Moto, Otom is intended as Moto’s mirror opposite, offering approachable and affordable food devoid of the molecular-gastronomy razzle-dazzle that made Moto famous. Yet, in a colorful and contemporary setting that should appeal greatly to the cocktail crowd, chef Daryl Nash offers cooking that’s far too thoughtful to be dismissed as “Moto lite.” Young, friendly and unpretentious servers add to the extremely comfortable dining experience, and an impressive beverage program of affordable wines and novel cocktails is a big plus. Recommended: Thai-spiced mussels, jambalaya, banana split. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat. Entree prices: $14-$26. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible (must call ahead), valet parking, no smoking.
SHIKAGO **
190 S. LaSalle St., 312-781-7300. Kevin and Alan Shikami, the brothers behind the River North restaurant Kevin, have established Loop roots with this restaurant in the heart of the city’s financial district. Chef Kevin Shikami is again mixing French and Asian cuisines, but at Shikago, the Asian side takes center stage, in such dishes as bulgogi-seasoned ribeye steak and duck breast in miso broth. (A few Shikami favorites, such as his tuna tartare, remain.) A good portion of the restaurant is devoted to a carryout area, just steps away from the sedate dining room; that, and the TV screens broadcasting a distracting jumble of market reports, fashion montages and film clips, makes for an at-times dissonant dining experience. The restaurant’s name, a contraction of Shikami and Chicago, virtually assures frustration among potential customers searching via the Internet or Directory Assistance. But the food is worth the effort. Recommended: Shikago maki roll, short rib spring rolls, green-tea shortbread. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri. Entree prices: $24-$32. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Accepted. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, no smoking.
TABLE FIFTY-TWO **
52 W. Elm St., 312-573-4000. Art Smith, renowned cookbook author and one-time personal chef to Oprah Winfrey, crams his notions of hospitality and Southern heritage into a 36-seat carriage house on the Gold Coast. Between the meager seating and Smith’s celebrity, it’s very difficult to reach this place by phone and even harder to secure a weekend reservation (best strategies include calling late afternoon or early evening, being persistent and settling for mid-week reservations or, better, lunch). Those who succeed are rewarded with soul-nurturing, down-home cooking and personal touches — such as Smith’s complimentary buttermilk-goat-cheese biscuits — that make you feel like a treasured house guest. Recommended: Fried-green tomato Napoleon, pistachio-coated chicken breast, 12-layer chocolate cake. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., lunch Tue.-Sat. Entree prices: $18.50-$39. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Valet parking, no smoking.
TAVERN AT THE PARK
** 130 E. Randolph St., 312-552-0070. Across the street from Millennium Park’s northern border sits this two-story contemporary American tavern by the same group that operates Keefer’s steak house. Keefer’s executive chef John Hogan also supervises the culinary direction here, which generally consists of familiar, comfort-food dishes with the occasional, gentle twist. Handsome interiors and energetically friendly service are major pluses, and if you steer clear of the steaks (good though they may be), you’ll be surprised at how economical dinner can be. Recommended: Mussels and pepperoni, chicken pot pie, short ribs, double pork chop, Cookies and Cream. Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sat. Entree prices $15-$34. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
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Ratings key:
OUTSTANDING ****
EXCELLENT ***
VERY GOOD **
GOOD *
SATISFACTORY
UNSATISFACTORY
Reviews are based on no fewer than two visits. The reviewer makes every effort to remain anonymous. Meals are paid for by the Tribune.
