A roundup of restaurants recently reviewed by restaurant critic Phil Vettel.
BOKA ***
1729 N. Halsted St.; 312-337-6070. Chef Giuseppe Tentori modestly refers to his cooking as “simple,” which might be the case if one were comparing it to that of his former employer (Charlie Trotter) or his next-door neighbor (Alinea). By any other standard, Tentori’s contemporary-American cooking is remarkably nuanced, artistic and clever. A beautiful interior and knowing, charming service add to the outstanding dining experience. Recommended: Stuffed squid, chamomile-dusted quail, venison with black-cardamom mole, barramundi. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $19-$38. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
MAIJEAN **
30 S. Prospect Ave., Clarendon Hills; 630-794-8900. With colors evocative of a Provence sunset and Art Nouveau decorative touches, Maijean (pronounced May-ZHEEN) is a breath of country-French air, an ideal setting for chef/owner Nadia Tilkian’s well-grounded but contemporary French cuisine. An affordable wine list and quick-on-their-feet service are bonuses. Recommended: Sweetbreads, salad Lyonnaise, champagne-poached peaches. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat., brunch Sun. Entree prices: $18-$32. Credit cards: A DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, smoking in bar only.
OTOM **
951 W. Fulton Market, 312-491-5804. Just two doors down from its elder sibling, Moto, Otom is intended as Moto’s mirror opposite, offering approachable and affordable food devoid of the molecular-gastronomy that made Moto famous. Yet, in a colorful and contemporary setting that should appeal greatly to the cocktail crowd, chef Daryl Nash offers cooking that’s far too thoughtful to be dismissed as “Moto lite.” Unpretentious servers add to the extremely comfortable dining experience, and an impressive beverage program of affordable wines and novel cocktails is a big plus. Recommended: Thai-spiced mussels, braised lamb shank, banana split. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat. Entree prices: $14-$26. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible (must call ahead), valet parking, no smoking.
RICCARDO TRATTORIA
*** 2119 N. Clark St.; 773-549-0038. Riccardo Michi was an executive chef with the Bice restaurant group for many years, and Lincoln Park locals are thrilled to be getting Bice-quality food at neighborhood-trattoria prices. Michi’s robust, rustic cooking is first-rate and attitude free; he’s as happy to make a rich spaghetti carbonara as he is tripe Florentine, a dish that has developed something of a cult following. Recommended: Tuna carpaccio, lobster risotto. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun. Entree prices: $12-$24. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
TABLE FIFTY-TWO **
52 W. Elm St., 312-573-4000. Art Smith, cookbook author and one-time personal chef to Oprah Winfrey, crams his hospitality and Southern heritage into a 36-seat carriage house. Between the meager seating and Smith’s celebrity, it’s difficult to reach this place by phone and harder to secure a weekend reservation (best strategies include calling late afternoon or early evening, being persistent and settling for mid-week reservations or, better, lunch). Those who succeed are rewarded with soul-nurturing, down-home cooking and personal touches — such as Smith’s complimentary buttermilk-goat-cheese biscuits — that make you feel like a treasured house guest. Recommended: Fried-green tomato Napoleon, 12-layer chocolate cake. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., lunch Tue.-Sat. Entree prices: $18.50-$39. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Valet parking, no smoking.
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Ratings key:
OUTSTANDING ****
EXCELLENT ***
VERY GOOD **
GOOD *
Reviews are based on no fewer than two visits. The reviewer makes every effort to remain anonymous. Meals are paid for by the Tribune.
