A roundup of restaurants recently reviewed by restaurant critic Phil Vettel.
Brasserie Ruhlmann *** 500 W. Superior St., 312-494-1900. This copy of a New York restaurant takes its name from Art Deco master Emil-Jacques Ruhlmann, and accordingly there are Art Deco accents throughout the bustling, 240-seat dining room. Chef Christian Delouvrier, who worked at L’Espinasse and Alain Ducasse, turns out classic brasserie food that is simultaneously hearty and nuanced — comfort food for the thinking person. Recommended: Le Chicago chowder, moules frites, raspberry napoleon. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri., brunch Sun. Entree prices: $22-$42. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.
Crofton on Wells *** 535 N. Wells St., 312-755-1790. Since its December 1997 opening, Suzy Crofton’s restaurant in River North has quietly become one of Chicago’s finest dining experiences, combining a handsome and quiet dining room with similarly understated but excellent cuisine from the chef and owner. Crofton’s seasonal American cooking is laden with comfort-food ingredients and a smattering of wild game, with the occasional spicy accent. Recommended: Quail with dried-cherry spoonbread, curried lentils with ginger creme fraiche, venison with tarragon sabayon, chocolate-banana plate. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat. Entree prices: $26-$34. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.
Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse & Wine Bar ** 960 Milwaukee Ave., Lincolnshire, 847-793-0333. This is the sole (so far) Chicago-area outpost of this national steakhouse chain, though a River North location is scheduled to open in spring 2008. Prime steaks are aged 21 days, cut on the premises and consistently excellent. Desserts are decent, but invest calories elsewhere. Recommended: Fleming salad, NY strip steak. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $24.50-$42.95. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.
Lockwood *** Palmer House Hilton, 17 E. Monroe St.; 312-917-3404. Giving the Palmer House the gourmet restaurant it has long deserved, Lockwood manages to embrace the hotel’s storied past while remaining very much a contemporary concept. Chef Phillip Foss cooks with imagination, humor and considerable skill. The lavishly appointed dining room manages to remain low-key and intimate, and general manager Kirk Alston is an articulate and passionate promoter of the deep wine list. Recommended: “Crab apple,” squab breast, prosciutto-wrapped pork, veal trio, banana napoleon. Open: Dinner, breakfast, lunch daily. Entree prices: $28-$46. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, discounted self-parking with validation.
Reel Club * 272 Oakbrook Center Drive, Oak Brook, 630-368-9400. Mychael Bonner, who also is executive chef at Di Pescara in Northbrook, oversees this latest Lettuce Entertain You concept, a sophisticated seafooder with an approachable, value-oriented menu. Bonner keeps things pretty simple in the kitchen, though he manages some cute turns on a few well-known dishes; the front of the house can be maddening at times, but the dining room is crowded just about every night. Recommended: Oysters a la rocket, double-dip shrimp, “mounds bar” dessert. Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $14.95-$46.95. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.
Takashi ** 1952 N. Damen Ave., 773-772-6170. Takashi Yagihashi has become famous cooking for others, in such restaurants as the late Ambria, Tribute in suburban Detroit and Okada in Las Vegas. But now the chef has his own restaurant in a cozy 55-seat Bucktown house, an apt background for Yagihashi’s small-plate menu. Takashi’s best dishes combine artistic presentation with deceptively complex seasoning, and there are a great many of those. Attentive service and a knowing wine and sake list with very friendly prices are major selling points. Recommended: Trio of tofu, chicken fried in duck fat, chicken in clay pot, chocolate pave. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun. Entree prices: $21-$28. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Valet parking.
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Ratings key:
OUTSTANDING ****
EXCELLENT ***
VERY GOOD **
GOOD *
Reviews are based on no fewer than two visits. The reviewer makes every effort to remain anonymous. Meals are paid for by the Tribune.
