When two hangouts billing themselves as “upscale sports bars” debuted within weeks of each other in River North, the comparisons were bound to follow.
All that’s separating Theory (9 W. Hubbard St. 312-644-0004) and Bull & Bear (431 N. Wells St. 312-527-5973) is a brisk walk down Hubbard Street. The menus? Gussied-up bar food. The TVs? Plenty — and strategically positioned for a clear sightline from any possible position, of course. Even the color schemes — blues, browns, exposed brick — are eerily similar.
What’s more, the owners are all homegrown Chicago-area guys: Bull & Bear’s Luke Stoioff, Brandon Zisman and David Rekhson also run nightclub Stone Lotus, while Theory’s Joel Sorinsky and Brian Merel have collectively worked at Joe’s on Weed Street, Castaways and 437 Rush. When we found out that four out of five went to the same North Shore high school together, we had only one thought on our minds: Prepare for battle, gentlemen.
VIP perks
Theory
Booths in the back half of the bar featur built-in TVs (you pick the channel). A private den boasts three screens and pillow-strewn seating for group game-watching.
Bull & Bear
Five oversized booths features two self-seerve, pay-by-the-ounce beet taps (one domestic and one import each). Pre-set your limit with your server and you’ll never have to wait for a refill (until you get cut off).
ADVANTAGE: Bull & bear. With the choice to control our game or our beer, we pick beer.
Burgers
Theory
The half-pound Theory burger ($12; $5 on Mondays), a simple hand-formed patty with a mix of regular and sweet potato fries.
Bull & Bear
The Bull & Bear Burger ($18), a kobe beef patty topped with gruyere cheese, sweet onion marmalade and bacon aioli with truffle fries.
Advantage: Bull & Bear. It’s pricey, but it’s soooo good. Save a few bucks and split a trio of mini-versions with friends ($14).
Beer
Theory
Eight on tap, including Delirium Tremens ($10); 24 by the bottle
Bull & Bear
Eight on tap; 14 by the bottle, including Delirium Tremens ($11)
Advantage: Theory. Besides stocking more beer overall, their Delirium’s on tap (and a buck cheaper).
Opening time
Theory
Secured the space in March 2008; opened in December 2008
Bull & Bear
Secured the space in August 2007; opened in January 2009
Advantage: Theory. B&B’s egregious delays caused them to plan a New Year’s Eve bash — and then cancel it shortly after.
‘Bowl’ bashes
Theory
$3 Coors Light bottles, $5 Captain Morgan and Cokes, $5 Cuervo shots and $5 pizzas, hosted by Chicago Sports & Social Club. Reservations accepted for parties of six or more. Open 11 a.m.-midnight.
Bull & Bear
$50 food and drink package includes appetizers, wine, beer and cocktails during the game. Reservations required for those table taps. Open 11 a.m.-2 a.m.
Advantage: Tie. Both parties will be packed, but if you’re the consume-in-moderation type, Theory’s may end up cheaper.
The winner
Bull & Bear, by a nose. Maybe it’s all that built-up anticipation from multiple delays, but we’re overjoyed to see this bar finally open — and can’t wait till it’s warm enough to sun ourselves on the 100-seat sidewalk patio. Don’t worry, Theory — there’s more than enough room in River North for two upscale sports bars.
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lmarnett@tribune.com.
