A roundup of restaurants recently reviewed by restaurant critic Phil Vettel.
Anteprima ** 5316 N. Clark St.; 773-506-9990. There’s not a lot of elbow room at Marty Fosse’s super-casual 50-seater, a hit since it opened in April 2007. But the Andersonville hangout has everything else you want, including rustic-Italian dishes, impressive pasta dishes in full and half portions, antipasti available individually or in combination and an all-Italian wine list. Recommended: Veal meatballs, bucatini with guanciale, chianti-braised pork, orange cake. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $16-$26. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly.
David’s on Jefferson Hill * 43 E. Jefferson Ave., Naperville; 630-548-9393. “Quiet and intimate” don’t describe many restaurants these days, but they sum up this downtown Naperville spot pretty succinctly. Chef and owner David Oland produces an impressive array of classic French dishes out of a very tiny kitchen, and the budget-friendly wine prices are a big asset. Recommended: Soup duo, king salmon, rack of lamb, chocolate mousse. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat. Entree prices: $26-$30. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended weekends. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible.
Il Sogno di Barrella * 100 Hale St., Wheaton; 630-682-5900. The former Barrella Ristorante in Palatine packed up and moved to this second-floor space in downtown Wheaton. Simple and unpretentious, the menu offers nothing you haven’t seen before, but succeeds by using high-quality products. Recommended: Seafood mixed grill, veal Barrella. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Wed.-Sat., brunch Sun. Entree prices: $12-$32. Credit cards: A. DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended weekends. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible.
Veerasway ** 844 W. Randolph St.; 312-491-0844. Angela Hepler-Lee has made a career of creating approachable, contemporary ethnic restaurants (De Cero, Sushi Wabi), and this Americanized Indian concept, along the Randolph Street restaurant corridor, sticks to her proven formula. The menu is divided among traditional Indian dishes and Indo-American dishes that serve as freshman-level intros to Indian seasonings. Recommended: Bollywood lollipops, salmon in cumin-turmeric broth, passion fruit meringue tart. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Fri. Entree prices: $13.75-$21. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended weekends. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking.
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Ratings key:
OUTSTANDING ****
EXCELLENT ***
VERY GOOD **
GOOD *
SATISFACTORY
UNSATISFACTORY
Reviews are based on no fewer than two visits. The reviewer makes every effort to remain anonymous. Meals are paid for by the Tribune.
