Have you heard the story of the little bar that cried grand opening?
Once upon a time in February 2007, Brad Tice of NoChance Productions (the local group behind Goodbar, Cortland ‘s Garage and The Stretch) picked up the keys to a loft-like space on Milwaukee Avenue in Wicker Park, aiming to open a laid-back neighborhood bar called Loft Six Ten that summer. After nearly two years of construction, permit and license delays; a handful of false-start opening dates; and some graffiti on the facade to add insult to injury, the bar opened its doors last weekend.
There’s no big gimmick here — no theme or kitsch. In fact, Loft Six Ten aims to be a timeless neighborhood spot to eat, drink and hang out, without so much as a TV to distract. (No TVs? Forced interaction? Come to think of it, that’s almost a gimmick these days.)
Was all this worth the wait?
Crowd: You won’t be stepping on barely legal, trying-so-hard-to-be-edgy hipsters like at Crocodile down the street. The late-20s and 30s crowd filling the bar’s first floor on opening night skewed mainstream-to-trendy — in fact, the edgiest things in sight were Tice’s tattoo-covered arms. Up a flight of stairs, groups of girlfriends chatted over appetizers, while double dates clustered on leather ottomans near the wrought-iron railing to scope the churning crowd below.
Inside: The owners were going for a homey, timeless look, but we’d call it contemporary. With its exposed brick walls, two-story windows and industrial touches, Loft Six Ten might feel like home — if home is a half-million-dollar loft. As for music, the DJ is put on a pedestal, literally, in a booth perched above the entrance so he can keep an eye on both the first and second floors. DJ Major Taylor kept the crowd guessing with an ’80s-heavy dance mix, ranging from Michael Jackson to Lady Gaga. We had no complaints, except when Bon Jovi blared around midnight; we thought we were in Wrigleyville at last call.
Outside: Patio seating for 60-80 along Hermitage Avenue will debut in June, a nice al fresco option on a part of Milwaukee with more discounACt furniture stores than bars.
Drinks: A large drink menu has something for cocktail lovers, beer geeks and average-Joe drinkers alike. Brews hit an impressive high-low mix, from$3 Milwaukee’s Best to a $40 bottle of Dogfish Head Fort raspberry ale. Those who drink by liquor type will love sections titled “vodka,” “rum,” and “Maker’s Mark,” a shout out to Tice’s favorite booze. We especially liked The Alpine, a sake and pear-flavored take on the classic vodka-lemonade.
Eats: The booze-inflected menu of appetizers, burgers and entrees comes courtesy of chef Roxanne Spruance, no stranger to the nightlife nosh scene with stints at Stone Lotus, Rockit and now-defunct Brasserie Ruhlmann. We were ready to scream when we saw lamb lollipops ($9), an oh-so-overdone app on “upscale bar” menus, but the tangy Maker’s Mark-spiked barbecue sauce managed to lull us into submission. To be picky, our Guinness cheese dip ($8) came with just three pretzel bites — a buzz kill if you plan to share with a group.
The bottom line: Worth the wait? Sure. If the goal is good drinks, good food and good music, then Loft Six Ten is just about there on all counts.
THE BREAKDOWN
Fun fact: The bar’s numerical name originated when majority partner Brad Tice’s height, 6-foot-10, was suggested during a brainstorming session.
Beer vs. cocktail ratio: 30/70
Girl vs. guy ratio: 50/50
Value: Fair. $9-$10 for pint glass-sized cocktails, $3-$9 for most beer, $7-$15 for wine, $4-$17 for food
Wear your: Designer jeans and trendy tops for ladies; funky sneakers, blazers and sporty zip-up jackets for guys
Bring: Your ready-to-mingle single pal, a double date, friends celebrating a low-key birthday
Don’t bring: Your sports-fan friends (not a TV in sight) or your jealous girlfriend (cute hostesses might cause a fight)
Velvet rope factor: Low. No cover and no line — though three staffers at the door (and no name on the building, just an overlapping 6 and Roman numeral X) made for a slightly intimidating approach on opening night.
Hookup factor: Hot. Groups of solo straight girls and guys on the prowl make the scene ripe for mingling.
Danceability: High. An excellent sound system keeps the crowd moving, especially on the first floor.
