It’s nutcracker season, time to slip into a ballet-pink dress and settle in for “The Nutcracker.” This year, as every year, young Clara twirls through her parents’ Christmas party, where she receives an enchanting gift: a large wooden-soldier-shaped nutcracker. Unruly brother Fritz snatches the gift and breaks it. Mysterious Herr Drosselmeyer mends the toy, after which Clara shrinks, mice battle tin soldiers, flowers and dolls leap to the Tchaikovsky score, as do chocolate, coffee and the Sugar Plum Fairy. As surreal family holiday dramas go, it’s awesome.
And yet, it raises questions. Dueling mice and dancing sweets seem reasonable. But what girl dreams of unwrapping a soldier doll designed to battle a hazelnut? No girl.
And why would she? One pirouette down the grocery aisle reveals that nut-cracking is passe. The sacks of cashews, almonds and peanuts come ready to munch. No jagged shards to extract from the smashed pecan. No dreaded Brazil nut in its pyramid armor, impervious to the mightiest nut soldier.
Children who once faced such challenging snacks were probably grateful for a nutcracker. These days everyone wants the Xbox Kinect or “Glee Karaoke Revolution.”
Even recipes, which once specified “shelled nuts” (meaning no shells) or “nutmeats” (meaning no shells), opt for the naked “nut.” Particularly popular just now: chestnut-happy stuffing. Walnut-speckled tart. Sweet, salty, spicy pecans rattling happily in a jar. Without the shell struggle, they’re a snap to make.
Leaving nutcrackers unemployed. No wonder every winter, every dance school feels obliged to run “The Nutcracker.” Otherwise, all those idle nutcrackers might stage a revolt. As the deposed Mouse King can attest, they’re armed.
Leah Eskin is a Tribune special contributor.
Candied pecans
Prep: 10 minutes
Cook: 10 minutes
Makes: 2 cups
2 cups pecan halves
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon ground red pepper
3/4 cup sugar
1/4 cup water
1. Toast: Spread pecans on a rimmed baking sheet.
2. Slide into a 350-degree oven until nuts darken slightly and give off a toasty scent, 8 minutes. Cautiously taste one. It should be crisp (if not, return to oven 1 more minute).
3. Toss nuts into a bowl.
4. Season with salt and red pepper.
5. Line the baking sheet with parchment paper.
6. Caramelize: Stir sugar and water together in a medium saucepan.
7. Heat to a boil. Let bubble without stirring until syrup starts to color, 3 minutes.
8. Reduce heat to medium; stir to a light, even brown, 1 minute.
9. Coat: Pour in seasoned nuts.
10. Stir until completely coated with caramel, 1 minute.
11. Scrape onto the parchment-lined baking sheet. Spread as best you can.
12. Cool completely, 20 minutes.
13. Crack: Break apart candied nuts.
These are addictively good solo and even better in cornbread/sausage stuffing. Tumbled into a jar and tied with a ribbon, they make a welcome gift.
