Spinach is the active sort, bouncing around the salad, twirling through the health drink, cheering up the omelet. Hardly inert. It’s ert.
The naysayer disses spinach, calling it dull, limp, fibrous. We must debunk such bunk. We’re tired of constructs like inert and debunk that only exist in the negative. Bunk this: Spinach maintains a wholesome attitude.
We find the lopsided word discombobulating. Why fixate on the downside? We combobulate that spinach can be mesmerizing, full-flavored, even sipid.
Consider the Washington, D.C., restaurant Rasika, where the sheveled go to see, be seen and munch fried spinach. The health enthusiast might think deep-fried greens a disaster. But one crunch reveals the dish is an aster. The leaves have been dusted with chickpea flour, fried crisp, seasoned spicy and brightened by tamarind chutney. A heaping plateful leaves the diner gruntled.
We are chalant about this dish. In a world where the ruthless bully the innocent, we believe fried spinach deserves ruth. In fact, we’re positive.
Leah Eskin is a Tribune special contributor.
Combobulated spinach
Prep: A few minutes Cook: 1 minute per batch Serves: Any number
Baby spinach, prewashed is the driest and easiest
Gram flour (chickpea flour) or all-purpose flour (or substitute dry falafel mix)
Peanut oil
Salt
Ground cumin
Ground red pepper
1. Toss: Heap spinach in a bowl. Sprinkle lightly with flour. Toss, so that leaves look dusty.
2. Fry: Choose a deep, heavy pot with a lid for frying. Pour in oil to a depth of 1 inch. Heat over medium-high heat to 365 degrees. Remove thermometer (in order to cover the pot). Add a handful of spinach. Cover. Spinach will sputter and pop, 10 seconds. When sounds subside, uncover and stir once with a slotted spoon. Cover until the new round of popping slows, 10 seconds. Uncover and continue to fry until leaves turn dark green, 30 seconds.
3. Season: Scoop out spinach with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels. Fry more spinach, if you like. Slide crispy leaves into a serving bowl. Sprinkle lightly with salt, cumin and red pepper. Enjoy, potato-chip style.
Provenance: Inspired by Washington, D.C.’s inventive Indian hotspot, Rasika.
