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“To keep people interested in growing things you have to have a novelty factor,” says Sonia Day, Toronto Star gardening columnist and author of “Incredible Edibles: 43 Fun Things to Grow in the City” (Firefly). Her book features a number of herbs most gardeners might not consider, including mojito mint (Mentha x villosa) whose name refers to its main and most pleasurable use: jazzing up the taste of a Cuban mojito cocktail.

In a world where basil comes in dozens of different sizes, colors and flavors, the fun and the challenge of herb gardening may be in whittling down what to buy. Remember, herbs aren’t just for cooking. Some herbs are grown for medicine, others for perfume or dyes, and still more purely for their ornamental quality.

Make sure you know the best use for whatever herb you’re buying, recommends Chris Carmichael, associate director of collections and horticulture at the University of California Botanical Garden at Berkeley. The “crucial question” to ask at a garden center or nursery is whether the plant you’re interested in tastes as good as it often smells, he said.

Even big garden centers, home to the usual herbal suspects, are diversifying, Day noted, but added that smaller, owner-operated nurseries may have more unusual stuff. Garden centers, farmers markets, ethnic food stores and specialty websites may also be viable sources for lesser known herb plants.

And no matter how you hunger to dig into that soil, try to be realistic. “I tell people don’t do too much,” Day said. “Just try a different herb each year.”

Here are some unusual or lesser-known herbs recommended by experts for garden beds or containers. Ask your garden store staff for details on planting and growing (many herbs are tropical, and may only perform as annuals during warmer months), or consult a reference work. A few good websites include The Herb Society of America (herbsociety.org), Fine Gardening magazine (finegardening.com) and Martha Stewart Living (marthastewart.com).

Anise hyssop (Agastache foeniculum): This herbaceous shrub has “deliciously anise-scented leaves which are great for tea or an interesting addition to a diverse salad,” said Scott Kleinrock, ranch manager at The Huntington Library, Art Collections and Botanical Gardens in San Marino, Calif. (If you let it flower, bees and butterflies will love you for it.) Zones 4-8

Knotted (or sweet)

marjoram (Origanum majorana): “Marjoram is a type of oregano and there’s a vast diversity in how fragrant they are and how fragrant they are in cooking. Knotted marjoram has a flavor you can’t believe,” said Tovah Martin, a horticulturalist and writer based in Roxbury, Conn. The plant is pretty to look at, she added, with tiny flowers sprouting in whorls on top of the plant. Zones 9-10

Pineapple sage (Salvia elegans): This shrub can be grown in the garden or a container. It has “wonderful pineapple-ish scented leaves and attractive pink flowers,” Kleinrock said, noting the leaves can be used in teas, cold drinks and salads. Zones 8-10

Summer savory (Satureja hortensis): Martin prefers summer savory to winter savory because it tastes so much better. “It’s every bit as flavorful as oregano with a fresher kind of taste,” she said. Summer savory, Martin said, makes bland dishes, like lentils, come alive. Annual

Vietnamese coriander (Polygonum odoratum): Also called Vietnamese cilantro, the leaves smell lemony and spicy, said Day, and can find a place in Asian, Indian and Mexican cooking. Use the leaves only in cooking; she finds the stalks tough. Zones 10-11

wdaley@tribune.com

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