Crispy gnudi: Gnudi, sometimes spelled nudi, are little spinach-and-ricotta dumplings, bound with a little flour, that look like gnocchi but with an infinitely soft texture. The full name is “gnudi ravioli,” or “naked ravioli,” because they look like ravioli minus their pasta-wrap clothes. At Perennial Virant, chef Paul Virant gives his gnudi ($15) a little pan-seared crispiness and plates them with braised rabbit, roasted root vegetables and a dab of mustard butter.
The sturdy vegetables and braised game meat make the dumplings seem that much more ethereally light, while the mustard contributes a grace note of acidity. (Note to self: Learn Virant’s secret recipe, open chain of “Phil’s Gnudi Bar” restaurants.) 1800 N. Lincoln Ave., 312-981-7070
