Q: Recently I had the windshield replaced on my 10+-year-old vehicle and the technician pointed out rust in the channel that the windshield sits in. There were several holes, some pin head-size but others a couple inches long. I realize my vehicle is not new but this was the only rusty spot. The technician said there was a good possibility that the rust on the frame is what caused the windshield to crack and that I should see a body shop. I went to a shop I trust and his first remarks were “you had the windshield replaced before.” I did, almost 10 years ago from a rock that caused it to crack. He explained to me that it is common, when removing the old windshield, that the tech will scratch the body. They are supposed to seal or paint the scratches before installing the window. It is likely that the original tech did not and that was the cause of the rust. Is this common? What do you think my chances are that the rust will not come back?
— E.S. Glenview, Ill.
A: Rust in this area is, unfortunately, not an uncommon problem on vehicles that have had their windshields replaced by improperly-trained technicians. Proper training in the auto glass replacement business is usually left to individual shop owners and, regrettably, technicians are often not trained or supervised properly, said a spokesperson from Glass America.
The standard procedure when replacing bonded auto glass is to remove the broken glass and all but 1/8-inch of the existing polyurethane in the channel (called the pinch weld by the pros). Sometimes they go a little deep and the surface gets scratched. Properly-trained technicians know that these areas must be treated with metal primer that is supplied with the polyurethane to keep the channel from rusting out. Properly treated areas don’t rust.
If the rust is very severe a body shop needs to repair it before windshield replacement, according to the Automotive Glass Replacement Safety Standards (AGRSS) Council. As for rust being a cancer, the safest repair is to weld in new metal in the pinch weld area, as opposed to using body filler such as Bondo. The rust may still come back, but not as quickly as when using filler. Installing a windshield over a rusty pinch weld compromises the adhesion of the windshield to the body of the vehicle. In a collision the air bags may not deploy properly (the passenger air bag deflects off of the glass) or in a rollover the vehicle’s roof, which is supported by the glass, may be compromised. It also violates the AGRSS Standard to install a windshield over untreated rust. For more info, go to safewindshield.com.
Q: I have a 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited. As of a month ago, every time I fill up the gas tank it leaks and drips onto the garage floor. The gas is not pouring out but there’s a noticeable puddle on the floor. The leak goes away once I drive it and burn off gas until the needle is at about 3/4 of a tank. I took it to a mechanic who says to stop overfilling my tank and to stop pumping once you hear the first click but this issue continues. I look forward to any suggestions to fix this issue and any repair costs.
— T.B., Chicago
A: Have you looked at the underside of your vehicle? Leaks, even fuel leaks, often leave a trail pointing to their source. If the leak source seems to be above the tank, we suspect a gasket problem with the fuel level sender/fuel pump assembly. The tank will have to be dropped down to service it, so leave the job to a pro. And, oh yeah, run the tank nearly dry before taking it in for service.
Q: I have a 2001 Ford F-150, 5.4-liter with 161,000 miles. Several years ago, when cold, it idled rough and displayed multiple computer codes. After much money, and replacing sensors and cables, it was finally traced to a leaking intake manifold gasket and has run fine for the past three years. Recently, it started again. It seems worse when stopped at a light and has to be taken out of gear to keep it from stalling. An oxygen sensor was replaced last week by my mechanic who said it was failing but not bad enough to show up on a code. The problem still exists. I am a paramedic who needs a reliable vehicle. Is it possible that the intake manifold gasket is failing again? Seems unlikely to me.
— J.C., Lynwood, Ill.
A: Don’t be too sure about that. The intake gasket may be bad or there could be an air leak from somewhere else, such as a vacuum hose. Have your favorite professional tech do a smoke test on the system. Essentially, they connect a non-damaging “smoke” generator to the engine, then, under pressure, the smoke leaks out where there are any problems. It sounds sort of primitive, but it works.
Q: A reader recently complained to you that his 2012 Elantra got “nowhere near” the EPA numbers. Could this be because the EPA tests are made using pure gasoline and not ethanol?
— J.J. Orlando, Fla.
A: Could be, but it appears that there is more to the issue. Read on.
Q: I wrote to you about my 2012 Hyundai Elantra’s poor gas mileage. The following link provides more insight into the problem. I thought you would find it interesting. http://bit.ly/v5qd7e
Suffield, Conn.
A: Interesting, indeed. The link is to a letter from Consumer Watchdog to the EPA, claiming that there is evidence that the Elantra gets substantially less mileage than the stated 33 mpg. In the letter, the organization states: “Elantra drivers reporting their Elantra MPG to the EPA (there were 18 reports, an unusually high number, for the 2012 model), found they averaged only 28.9.5 MPG.”
Q: The last two cars that I have owned with aluminum wheels have developed recurrent significant air leaks after the OE tires were replaced. My tire dealer says that this is due to corrosion on the inner rims where the tire forms a seal. The exterior or the wheels do not seem significantly corroded. How does one prevent this or treat this?
— L.S., Chicago
A: Because the tire’s rubber bead area flexes, moisture and saline from the road can attack the metal, causing pits and corrosion. Before the new tires are installed, the rim’s bead seat should be lightly sanded then coated with a bit of rim and bead sealer. Aluminum wheels are also prone to casting porosity where the wheel itself may leak. In this case locating the leak then sealing it from the inside with silicone sealant is the fix.
Q: The owner’s manual for my 2007 Buick Lucerne is very emphatic about the importance of using Dex-Cool antifreeze. One of the mechanics at the shop I patronize is equally adamant against it. He feels it should be drained as soon as possible. I know the shop will respect my wishes if I request Dex-Cool when it is time for a coolant flush but I also don’t see the point in bringing up this issue if the owners manual is overstating it. What is your opinion of this product and the importance of using it in my vehicle?
— M.K., Lehigh Valley, Pa.
A: The issues surrounding automotive fluids have gotten crazy — especially when it comes to antifreeze/coolant. There are a rainbow of colors and an assortment of chemical combinations. Some carmakers specify coolant with no silicates, opting instead for organic acid technology (OAT). Some prefer a hybrid of both silicates and OAT. Asian manufacturers also use a hybrid, but instead of silicates they use phosphates. Using the wrong coolant can cause engine damage, particularly the water pump or gaskets. We will not tell you what to use, but you are usually safe using the specified product. Don’t even get us started on automatic transmission fluids.
Bob Weber is an ASE-certified master automobile technician. Send questions to Motormouth, Rides, Chicago Tribune, 435 N. Michigan Ave., 5th Floor, Chicago, IL 60611, or email with name and town to motormouth.trib@verizon.net.
