Duck poutine: It should tell you something that a festival devoted to poutine now exists in Chicago. Poutine, of course, is the Quebecois dish of fries, gravy and cheese curds, an invention tailor-made for Chicago sensibilities. Around town, limitless versions abound, from foie gras mousse and pork belly at BadHappy Poutine Shop to vegetarian herbed mushroom gravy at The Bad Apple. Chef Stephen Dunne at Paramount Room contributes to the canon using duck that’s braised overnight in ale and red wine. He pulls the meat off the bone and pours its braising liquid over thrice-cooked french fries, finishing with melted Manchego cheese. Perhaps it’s the lack of an overly gooey or creamy element, or that the duck isn’t cooked confit, but unlike other versions, I found this poutine didn’t leave my stomach in a pit of despair. This feels like November food — not quite December roast or January chili — just a hefty and comforting dish of fried potatoes to counter the outside chill. $13 at Paramount Room, 415 N. Milwaukee Ave., Chicago, 312-829-6300
