A terrifically helpful way to successfully pair food and wine is to consider what makes up each side, not merely the stuff you pull out of the fridge or put into the pan, but what’s inside even that. It matters less that this is a red meat dish than that, on the food side, there are blood protein and fat, chili heat and citrus acidity. So, on the other side — the wine side — elements that would be helpful partners to those in the food would be, in turn, a fair amount of tannin, moderate alcohol and solid acidity.
THE FOOD: Chipotle-orange flank steak
Puree in a blender 3 cloves garlic, 3 chipotles in adobo, the juice of 1 orange, 1/4 cup olive oil and 1 teaspoon each oregano and salt. Rub 1 flank steak (2 to 2 1/2 pounds) with mixture; transfer steak and remaining marinade to a food storage bag. Set aside at room temperature, 20-30 minutes. Position rack in the center of oven; heat broiler. Remove flank steak from marinade; discard marinade. Pat steak dry with paper towels. Place on a foil-covered baking sheet. Broil, about 8 minutes per side for rare or 9 minutes for medium-rare. Makes: 8 servings
THE WINE
2011 Gallegos Pinot Noir Boekenoogen Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands, California: In the stiffer, more extracted, almost “sweet” passel of pinots, with buckets of dark cherry fruit, waves of aroma, nice acidity and nearly leathery tannins. $38
2011 Edge Cabernet Sauvignon, North Coast, California: Its name tells all — a cabernet with high-toned acidity evident especially at the finish of a fruit-filled, voluptuous mouthful; moderately tannic. $22
2011 Tablas Creek Patelin de Tablas, Paso Robles, California: A blend of Rhone varieties that’s all dark fruit, plush tannin and sparks of many spice and earth notes, with fine acidity from a cool year. $18
