Double cheeseburger at Johnny’s Grill

I know: You love the burger at Au Cheval. You love it as much as you love the Lower Wacker scenes in “The Dark Knight” and as much as you love hating on people who put ketchup on hot dogs. Nobody here is disputing the validity of Chicago’s most-written-about burger, so please direct hate mail elsewhere. But it’s nice to remember that there are other, very good burgers out there — useful for when you don’t have three hours to wait for a table. The double cheeseburger ($9) at Johnny’s Grill is one of them. It’s a feat to put out a thin burger that’s still pink and juicy in the middle, and the cooks here nailed it — two beautifully griddled patties, covered in melted sharp cheddar on a soft bun that soaks up the grease. A thick layer of mustard-mayo mixture makes every bite creamy, and pickles on top nail the fast-food nostalgia.

2545 N. Kedzie Blvd., 773-278-2215, www.thejohnnysgrill.com

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