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Unlike most marzens, Ballast Point Dead Ringer is hefty enough on the palate — while maintaining a nutty-caramel-fruity combination — to pass for a brown ale.
E. Jason Wambsgans / Chicago Tribune
Unlike most marzens, Ballast Point Dead Ringer is hefty enough on the palate — while maintaining a nutty-caramel-fruity combination — to pass for a brown ale.
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The beer: Dead Ringer, Ballast Point Brewing (San Diego)

What it is: Dead Ringer is described as a “traditional marzen lager” on its label — in other words, one of those German-style Oktoberfest beers that emerge every year about this time. The label turns out to be a bit misleading; Dead Ringer is no traditional marzen. But it is a terrific beer and an ideal match for summer’s segue into fall. (Note: Ballast Point was sold to Constellation Brands, maker of Modelo Especial, Corona and other leading Mexican brands, in 2015.)

In the bottle: Even the eye says Dead Ringer is no dead ringer for a classic marzen (also called an Oktoberfest) — its deep amber color, inching into chocolaty brown, is a bit darker than usual. But the aroma is a tempting mix of nutty, caramel and a touch of plum. Like most marzens, Dead Ringer is malt-forward, offering mild sweetness. Unlike most marzens, it is hefty enough on the palate — while maintaining that nutty-caramel-fruity combination — to pass for a brown ale. But it dries out with light bready bitterness that makes each taste demand another. Bonus: It pairs exceptionally well with food. For the craft beer drinkers who typically find marzen too boring or too sweet — I was once one of them! — Dead Ringer is for you.

Alcohol: 6 percent

Find it: Available in six-packs of 12-ounce bottles in stores, and on draft at Ballast Point’s Chicago brewpub (212 N. Green St.) into October.

jbnoel@chicagotribune.com

Twitter @hopnotes

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