Spring evenings in this coastal village on the shores of Green Bay are chilly, and the temptation to linger before the massive stone fireplace in the White Gull Inn`s cozy lobby was strong. But we had come for the inn`s famed fish boil, and when innkeeper Andy Coulson announced that the boilover–the traditional firey finale to a Door County fish boil–was about to take place, we hurried outside to the flagstone patio.
There, a great iron kettle filled with small red potatoes and large chunks of freshly caught Lake Michigan whitefish seethed and steamed over a blazing hardwood fire. As we crowded close around, Russell Ostrand, the inn`s master boiler for the last 20 years, shared some of his knowledge.
The fish boil came to Door County more than a century ago, we learned, brought by the early Scandinavians who settled this peninsula that separates the waters of Green Bay and Lake Michigan. It is a simple meal, one that commercial fishermen could easily prepare while out on the lakes, boiling the whitefish and potatoes atop the same pot-bellied stoves that warmed their tiny wooden fishing tugs.
In fact Ostrand, who hails from Jacksonport on the Lake Michigan side of the peninsula, picked up his culinary skills at a shipyard in Sturgeon Bay, 23 miles down the peninsula, where he worked until his retirement in 1983.
”They had fish pots and a setup for the (shipbuilding) crews to use,”
Ostrand said. ”They used to invite me along to play the accordion. But pretty soon I became the boiler, too.”
But at the shipyard the fish was boiled over gas-fueled fires, something Russ Ostrand steadfastly refuses to do at the White Gull Inn. Gas is cheaper he says, and it gives a beautiful boilover, but the fish tastes best when cooked over an open wood fire.
”I like to pile the sticks like this,” he said, showing us how he stacked the firewood vertically against the kettle. ”When it boils over, it doesn`t cancel out the fire.”
”Is there a secret recipe?” asked one hungry patron.
”We figure about one pound of fish per person,” Ostrand replied. ”One pound of salt for every two gallons of water, whitefish, potatoes and salt. That`s it.”
”What happens when it rains?” (There`s always one.)
”I get wet,” Ostrand grinned. ”It`s no problem, we boil rain or shine, summer and winter.” He peered into the simmering kettle. ”Okay, it`s time. Get your cameras ready,” he added, orchestrating the moment.
As the chunks of whitefish are boiled, the fish oils rise to the surface of the salty water. When instinct and experience told him the moment was right, Ostrand tossed a small amount of kerosene onto the fire. With a great burst of flame the kettle boiled over, spilling the oils over the side and leaving the fish and potatoes steaming hot, oil-free and ready to serve. The fire hissed, steam clouded the air, and the oohs and aahs of the onlookers were punctuated by the click of camera shutters.
”Do it again!” cried the photographers, and Ostrand tossed more kerosene on the fire. The flames climbed high, then quickly faded. ”Okay, that`s it,” he laughed. ”It`s time to eat!”
Moving inside to the dining room, which held another massive fireplace, we lined up for generous portions of whitefish and potatoes, which were ladled onto our plates. The dining room featured a beamed wooden ceiling, rounded-back wooden chairs and tables covered with brown-and-white checked table cloths.
The succulent whitefish was served with lemon and melted butter, and the meal included coleslaw and a variety of delicious homemade breads. We chose a good Wisconsin beer as our beverage, and dinner was topped off with a wedge of home-baked cherry pie, another Door County favorite. Seconds were available, but the generous first serving was ample for most appetites.
As we dined, Ostrand took a chair opposite the roaring fire and began to play a small button accordion. His repertoire consisted mainly of polkas and waltzes, with an occasional drinking song thrown in for good measure.
”I play by ear,” he told one patron. ”If you recognize the songs, it`s a coincidence.”
Later, after dinner, Ostrand said that in addition to playing at the shipyard fish boils, he had in years past played at various Door County nightspots, often for fees of $3 a night. At the White Gull Inn he plays not only to entertain guests, but to time the dinner sessions, especially in summer. ”We serve three sittings a night in the summer,” he said. ”I play during each sitting, and when I stop it`s a hint that dinner is over. We have to make room for the next sitting.”
Ostrand admits that he took the job as master boiler at the inn with some reluctance. ”When they first asked me, I told them no, because I thought I had a full schedule,” he said. ”Finally, I agreed to come down for just one night. That was 20 years ago and I`m still here. Sure I like it. If I didn`t, I wouldn`t be here. You meet so many good people.”
The White Gull Inn was established in 1896 and was originally part of a larger resort, as are many of the buildings in the village of Fish Creek. The two-story clapboard inn was built in Marinette, Wis., and moved intact to Fish Creek, 18 miles across Green Bay. That feat was accomplished in the dead of winter, using giant sleds and several teams of horses to move the building across the frozen bay.
While the main section of the inn dates from 1896, the dining room and kitchen were added during the 1940s and expanded in 1978. There are 10 bedrooms available in the main lodge, four in the adjacent Cliffhouse, and three sleeping cottages. Most, but not all, have private baths. All the rooms are decorated with Victorian furnishings, some of which are original to the inn. All the rooms have recently been renovated and winterized, and the inn is now open every day of the year except Thanksgiving and Christmas, and the two days preceeding each of those holidays.
Breakfast, lunch and dinner are served daily, and all meals are open to the public. The fish boil is served on Wednesday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday nights from May through October and on Wednesday and Saturday nights from Nov. 1 through April. Reservations are recommended for any evening meal and are an absolute necessity for the fish boils. In summer, make them well in advance.
Fish Creek is approximately 250 miles from Chicago by car. Take Int. Hwy. 43 from Milwaukee to Manitowoc, Wis., then follow Wis. Hwy. 42 up the Door County Peninsula to Fish Creek. Once in Fish Creek, turn left at the bottom of the hill to reach the White Gull Inn.
For additional information on the White Gull Inn, rates and various accommodation packages, contact the White Gull Inn, P.O. Box 159, Fish Creek, Wis. 54212; 414-868-3517.
An information packet on Door County`s many and varied year-round attractions is available from the Door County Chamber of Commerce, P.O. Box 219, Sturgeon Bay, Wis. 54235.
