Whether you want to barbecue a chicken with an American barbecue sauce, with a tasty Italian basting of olive oil and lemon or in a French style with herbs redolent of the Mediterranean, the basic techniques for cooking the chicken remain the same.
The main problem with grilling a whole chicken is that the fowl is not all the same thickness even when opened up, resulting in uneven cooking. Basic techniques for grilling solve that problem.
The difficulty with the cooking when using a barbecue is that cooks often do not permit the coals to die down to the proper point (where they appear white) and/or they cook the chicken too close to the fire. About 5 inches usually is the correct distance.
Preparing chicken for grilling
Like many cooking techniques, this seems complicated when it is written out, but it isn`t:
1. Cut through the back of the chicken on one side of the backbone using a sharp chef`s knife or cleaver.
2. Open the chicken up. Take out the backbone by cutting down the other side of the backbone that is still attached; discard it or use it for stock.
3. Place the chicken skin side down and firmly but gently pound all over with a meat pounder to flatten it somewhat.
4. Remove the collar bones which probably will be sticking up: simply cut them where they join the carcass. They are attached to the carcass, only at one end, near the neck where the wing attaches; they point down the back.
5. Slip a paring knife between the breast meat and the bones under it to remove the rib cage.
6. With a knife sever the joints where the drumstick and thigh join, without cutting through the skin.
7. Between where the thigh bone attaches to the body and the pointed end of the breast, cut a small hole in the skin. Put the end of the drumstick into the hole; this holds the leg in place.
Do ahead techniques
In a restaurant there rarely is time to grill poultry from start to finish when a customer makes an order. The simple technique is to have the chicken or duck pre-baked, waiting to be finished either under the broiler or over the grill. This technique works for the home chef who doesn`t want to be bothered with last minute cooking:
– Prepare the chicken for grilling and let it marinate, if called for, at least 30 minutes.
– Cook skin side up in a baking dish: The chicken may be baked for about 30 minutes at 450 degrees to be finished under the broiler or over the grill in about 10 to 15 minutes-as long as it takes to nicely brown it. The chicken may also be baked for 1 1/2 to 2 hours at 150 degrees. The slower method tends to result in juicier meat. It is then finished in the same way as above.
– The chicken also may be prepared with its marinade and put in plastic bags. Transport it this way to a barbecue or picnic site, and it is ready for the grill.
– The chicken may be completely cooked ahead and held up to 1 1/2 hours in a 150 degrees oven.
”Deviling”
The term ”deviled” in cooking means spicy and hot. This is sometimes done with pepper and often, in French cooking, with the hot French style mustard. Both lend themselves admirably to chicken.
Italian deviled chicken is a Roman specialty that has become popular all over Italy. I learned it from Marcella Hazan and it appears in her first book, ”The Classic Italian Cookbook,” (hardcover/Knopf, $18.95; paperback/
Valentine $4.50). The book is still the best basic Italian cookbook.
ITALIAN DEVILED CHICKEN
Four servings
Preparation time: 10 minutes
Marinating time: 2 hours
Cooking time: 25 minutes
1 chicken, 2 to 3 pounds
1/3 cup fresh lemon juice
1 heaping tablespoon crushed peppercorns
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 teaspoons salt
1. Prepare the chicken for grilling (according to method described above).
2. Place the chicken on a serving dish just large enough to hold it flat. Dribble the lemon juice all over it, then the olive oil, and sprinkle it with the peppercorns. Loosely cover and let marinate 2 hours, turning every half hour. (Note: This may be done several hours ahead, wrapped in plastic wrap and taken ready to cook to a barbecue.)
3. When the charcoal is ready, lightly salt the chicken and place it skin side down on the grill-about 5 inches above the charcoal-until the skin has turned light brown, about 15 minutes. (In a broiler have skin facing the heat source). Baste with the marinade.
4. Turn the chicken over for about 10 minutes, basting. If you run out of marinade baste with additional olive oil.
5. Finish the chicken with another 5 minutes on each side, basting, or until done; when the thigh is tender when pricked with a sharp knife and any juices that run out are clear. Season with a pinch of crushed pepper and serve.
FRENCH DEVILED CHICKEN
Four servings
Preparation time: 10 minutes
Cooking time: 40 minutes
1 chicken, about 3 pounds
1/3 cup safflower oil
2 tablespoons Dijon-style mustard
1/3 cup fresh bread crumbs
1. Prepare the chicken for grilling (according to the method described above). Heat oven to 450 degrees.
2. Coat the chicken with oil and place in a baking pan to cook about 20 minutes skin side up. Heat broiler or grill.
3. Turn chicken over and cook another 15 minutes skin side down.
4. Brush the skin side with the mustard, sprinkle with breadcrumbs, and dribble any juices from the baking over. Place under the broiler or the grill, skin side to heat source, for about 5 minutes or till nicely browned.
The famous ”herbs de Provence” give a wonderfully sensual quality to this dish.
GRILLED CHICKEN PROVENCAL
Four servings
Preparation time: 15 minutes
Marinating time: Up to 2 hours
Cooking time: About 35 minutes
1 chicken, 2 to 3 pounds
4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1 teaspoon dried leaf marjoram
1 teaspoon dried leaf oregano
2 teaspoons dried leaf thyme
1 teaspoon dried leaf summer savory
2 teaspoons salt
1. Prepare the chicken for grilling (according to method described above).
2. Drizzle the chicken with the olive oil and lemon juice and let marinate, turning occasionally, for up to 2 hours in a serving dish just large enough to hold it. (If you wish to cut the grilling time by half, place in a 160-degree oven for 1 1/2 hours.)
3. Mix the four herbs together. When the charcoal is ready and with the grill about five inches from the charcoal, pat the skin side with about 1/4 of the herbs and place the chicken skin-side to the heat source for about 15 minutes or until nicely browned.
4. Turn the chicken and pat with another 1/4 of the herbs. Grill for about 10 minutes.
5. Turn the chicken, pat with another 1/4 of the herbs and grill for 5 minutes. Turn again, sprinkle with the rest of the herbs and grill till done, about 5 minutes.
Rosemary is an herb that has a special resinous quality. It too is reminiscent of the Mediterranean and goes well with chicken. For Italian rosemary chicken use the same recipe as above, substituting dried or fresh rosemary for the herbs de Provence.
Chicken barbecues are a great American institution for fun, fundraising and good eating. This is typical of recipes used, adapted from one by Craig Claiborne. The chicken may be quartered or prepared for grilling in the classical way.
AMERICAN BARBECUED CHICKEN
Four servings
Preparation time: 15 minutes
Cooking time: 35 minutes
2 chickens, each about 2 pound
Vegetable oil
1 bottle catsup
1/2 teaspoon chili powder
1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin seed
1 lemon, juiced
2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
Hot red pepper sauce to taste
1 garlic clove, smashed
1 cup chicken stock
Salt and freshly ground pepper
1. Prepare the chickens for grilling (according to method described above) basting them with vegetable oil. (Some people smear them with vegetable shortening.)
2. Combine all the rest of the ingredients in a saucepan and bring to a simmer.
3. Grill the chickens about 35 minutes, basting with the sauce and turning about every 7 to 8 minutes.
4. When cooked, put the chicken in a serving dish and spoon any remaining sauce over it.
