Barbecuing in crisp winter`s chill may be hard to envision on a steamy and sultry summer day. But in our family, frosty weather grilling was a tradition. Even in January, in northern Ontario, my father would don his heavy parka, sweep the snow off the grill and barbecue the Friday night steak.
Although Dad still grills hamburgers and lamb chops in the frosty air, his repertoire has expanded. Now, it includes fish, seafood, vegetables and even grilled French bread. And it`s not that exotic or difficult.
No additional expensive equipment is needed in most cases. A wire brush, long-handled tongs, a wide metal spatula, a new small paint brush and a small dish of corn oil will see you through any grilling recipe. And it takes only a few pieces of hickory or mesquite tossed in the fire to add a unique flavor.
Grilling transforms myriad vegetables. Eggplant becomes smoky and succulent; peppers turn silky and sweet; potato slices become crisp, golden brown coins with fluffy insides.
Capture the essence of summer by brushing vegetables with a bit of garlic oil, then sprinkling with fresh herbs. Or exploit the sponge-like qualities of vegetables such as mushrooms and liberally brush with your favorite spicy marinade.
Everyone has a preferred method for grilling corn. In ”Foods of the Sun” (Harper and Row, $22.50), Anne Lindsay Greer recommends soaking ears of corn with silk and husks intact for about half an hour, then grilling for 8 to 10 minutes. Frequent turning will ensure even cooking. Other cooks prefer to remove the silk but not the husks before cooking.
Grilled bread and fish
Grilling revolutionizes breads. Whether it`s a French stick, tortilla or pita pocket, toasting bread on the barbecue is a lot of fun. Use it as an excuse to indulge your tightly reined passion for butter and olive oil. Or add a festive air to a simply flavored grilled meal by basting bread with a fiery sauce.
Broaden your horizons further by barbecuing fish and seafood. Thick cuts of fattier fish such as swordfish and salmon work well because they stick less than thin fillets of leaner sole and orange roughy.
However, keeping less fatty fish and seafood from sticking is as easy as cleaning the cooking rack and brushing it with a bit of oil before lighting the fire. Marinate and baste lean fish to keep them moist. And watch grilling- time closely to prevent overcooking.
Judging temperature
Catching the coals at the proper moment is critical for successful grilling. The temperature is hottest and ready for searing quick-cooking foods such as steaks when the coals have acquired a thin coating of white ash and glow red. You should be able to hold the palm of your hand over this heat for only 2 seconds.
Coals are medium-hot and perfect for grilling vegetables and fish when you can keep your hand in place for 3 to 4 seconds. Wait until coals acquire a thick coating of white ash to grill breads. Increase the heat by pushing the coals closer together and tapping them to remove the white ash; lower heat by spreading the coals apart.
When you`ve mastered the basic techniques for barbecuing beyond grilled meats, investigate a variety of seasonings and sauces to develop signature dishes.
Here are a few recipes and techniques to lure you to cook outdoors. Your family and friends will love your expanded repertoire, even when you grill in the summertime.
ANCHO GLAZED ONION MEDALLIONS
Preparation time: 20 minutes
Grilling time: 20 minutes
Yield: 6 to 8 servings
This ancho basting sauce is a staple for barbecue season and the recipe makes extra to have on hand. It`s ideal for ribs, chicken kebobs, halibut, shrimp and pork.
3 dried ancho chilies
2 garlic cloves
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1/2 teaspoon each: ground cloves, kosher salt, white pepper
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 cup Mom`s basic barbecue sauce, recipe follows
1/4 cup oil
4 medium (6 ounces each) red or white onions, peeled
1. Soak 16 six-inch bamboo skewers in water 30 minutes. Remove stems and seeds from chilies. Place chilies in a small saucepan and pour water over them to barely cover. Heat to a boil; cover and simmer 5 minutes. Let stand 5 minutes off the heat to completely soften chilies. Drain and discard liquid.
2. Mince garlic in a food processor fitted with the steel blade. Add chilies, cloves, cumin, salt and peppers. Puree for 15 seconds to form a paste, scraping bowl as necessary. With the machine running, add 1/2 cup of the barbecue sauce until thick. Scrape sides, add remaining sauce and puree until smooth. Pour into saucepan.
3. Heat sauce to a boil, cover and simmer for 5 minutes to blend flavors or microwave for 3 minutes. Whisk in oil. Pour 1 cup warm sauce into a small dish. Refrigerate remaining ancho sauce up to 2 months.
4. Cut onions crosswise into 1/2-inch thick slices. Thread bamboo skewer from one edge of each onion slice through all layers to the other side, so the onion remains intact when picked up and looks like a lollipop. One onion yields 4 medallions.
5. Brush grill rack lightly with oil before lighting fire to prevent sticking. Grill onions over a hot fire in a covered grill without basting for 4 minutes per side until partly cooked. Grill until crusty and glazed, basting with warm sauce and turning every 2 minutes, 8 to 10 minutes more. Remove skewers before serving warm.
Grilling tips:
– Microwave skewered onion medallions in a single layer, covered with plastic wrap, for 4 minutes to partially cook. Grill 6 to 8 minutes, basting and turning every 2 minutes until crusty and glazed.
– Make sure onion slices are 1/2-inch wide; if sliced too thin, you`ll have trouble wiggling the skewer completely through to the other side; too wide a slice will take forever to cook and the sugar in the marinade will burn.
– If the skewer pops through the top of the onion, simply push another skewer from the opposite side toward the center. Snap off skewer to proper length.
CAJUN MUSHROOM KEBOBS
Preparation time: 20 minutes
Grilling time: 10 to 12 minutes
Yield: 4 servings
Jumbo grilled mushrooms doused with fiery herbed Cajun sauce are a robust side dish for grilled or roasted poultry, beef or pork. Try the sauce with grilled pork chops, shrimp, chicken kebobs, ribs, scallops, halibut, monkfish. 2 cups Mom`s basic barbecue sauce, recipe follows
1 tablespoon each: fresh lemon juice, paprika, freshly ground black pepper
2 teaspoons minced garlic
1 teaspoon dried oregano or 2 teaspoons minced fresh
1 teaspoon dried basil or 1 tablespoon minced fresh basil
2 teaspoons crushed dried rosemary leaves or 1 teaspoon minced fresh
2 bay leaves, crushed
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt, optional
1/4 to 1 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1/4 cup oil
1 1/4 pounds 2-inch white or crimini mushrooms, about 5 per person
1. Soak 4 nine-inch bamboo skewers in water for 30 minutes. Mix barbecue sauce with lemon juice, paprkia, pepper, garlic, oregano, basil, rosemary, bay leaves, salt and 1/4 teaspoon cayenne. Heat to boil and simmer covered 5 minutes to blend flavors or microwave on high for 3 minutes. Remove from heat and whisk in oil. Taste and adjust cayenne.
2. Trim stem ends of mushrooms and wipe caps with a damp paper towel. Avoid washing mushrooms if possible, since they easily absorb water. Skewer mushrooms from stem end through cap.
3. Warm 1 cup of sauce. Refrigerate remaining sauce up to 2 months.
4. Brush grill rack lightly with oil before lighting fire to prevent sticking. Grill mushrooms over a hot fire in covered grill for a total of 10 to 12 minutes, basting with warm sauce and turning every 2 minutes. Mushrooms should be tender, not mushy, when cooked and slightly charred. Serve warm.
MOM`S BASIC BARBECUE SAUCE
Preparation time: 5 minutes
Cooking time: 3 minutes
Yield: About 2 cups
1/2 cup espresso or double-strength regular coffee
1/4 cup each: packed brown sugar, Worcestershire sauce
3 tablespoons cider vinegar
3/4 cup catsup
1. Mix coffee, brown sugar, Worcestershire sauce and cider vinegar in medium saucepan. Whisk in catsup. Heat to a boil, cover and simmer 5 minutes to blend flavors or microwave on high for 3 minutes. Refrigerate up to 2 months.
MEDITERRANEAN EGGPLANT AND ZUCCHINI FANS
Preparation time: 20 minutes
Grilling time: 10 minutes
Yield: 4 servings
These can be grilled ahead of time and used at room temperature as a salad or antipasto garnished with feta cheese and calamata olives. Serve with lots of crusty Italian bread.
1 tablespoon dried basil leaves or 3 tablespoons fresh basil
1 teaspoon dried oregano leaves or 2 tablespoons fresh oregano
1/3 cup plus 1 tablespoon balsamic or red wine vinegar
2/3 cup olive oil
2 yellow or red bell peppers, quartered, seeded
2 zucchini, 1/2 pound each
2 Italian or Japanese eggplants, 1/4 pound each
16 cherry or yellow plum tomatoes
1 teaspoon each: kosher salt, freshly ground black pepper
1. Soak 3 ten-inch bamboo skewers in water for 30 minutes. Stir all of the dried basil and oregano or half of the fresh herbs into 1/3 cup of the vinegar. Reserve remaining vinegar and fresh herbs for seasoning after grilling. Whisk in olive oil.
2. Trim root ends of zucchini and eggplant, leaving blossom ends intact. Cut vegetables in half lengthwise.
3. With flat side down, cut zucchini and eggplant from blossom to root ends into 1/8-inch-wide slices, leaving blossom ends intact so vegetables can be fanned. Skewer tomatoes through stem end.
4. Put zucchini and eggplant on a baking sheet. Place palm of hand on top of vegetables and wiggle back and forth several times to fan slices. Brush oil mixture between each slice and over peppers and tomatoes. Season with salt and pepper.
5. Brush grill lightly with oil before lighting fire. Fan zucchini and eggplant again before placing on grill. Grill zucchini, peppers, and eggplant in a covered grill over a hot fire for 6 to 8 minutes, basting liberally and turning every 3 minutes. Turn vegetable fans by lifting blossom ends. Grill tomatoes 3 to 4 minutes. Have a water bottle nearby as marinade may flare-up when applied.
6. Slice peppers into 1/2-inch-wide strips. Arrange grilled vegetables on a warm platter. Taste, season with salt, pepper and sprinkle with fresh herbs. Drizzle with a bit of vinegar and fresh herbs. Serve with grilled seafood, lamb, beef or poultry.
SCALLOPS AND SHRIMP WITH CREAMY HERBED MARINADE
Preparation time: 20 minutes
Marinating time: 3 hours
Grilling time: 6 to 8 minutes
Yield: 4 servings
This zesty herbed marinade with a mayonnaise base seals in moisture, keeping seafood juicy and tender. For appetizers, thread several shrimps or scallops onto a 5-inch bamboo skewer. The marinade is great with fresh tuna, chicken and beef, too.
1/2 cup mayonnaise
2 large green onions, green and white part, minced
2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
1 teaspoon Creole or coarse French mustard
1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
2 teaspoons minced fresh basil or 1/2 teaspoon dried basil
1 teaspoon minced fresh rosemary or 1/4 teaspoon dried rosemary
1 teaspoon minced fresh oregano or 1/4 teaspoon dried oregano
1/2 teaspoon each: paprika, freshly ground black pepper
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
1/8 to 1/4 teaspoon cayenne
3/4 pound sea scallops, rinsed if sandy
1 pound medium or large shrimp, shelled, deveined
1. Soak 8 ten-inch bamboo skewers in water 30 minutes. Whisk mayonnaise, green onions, lemon juice, mustard, Worcestershire sauce, basil, rosemary, oregano, paprika, pepper, salt and cayenne together in medium bowl. The marinade should taste strong since the seafood will dilute it. Adjust spiciness.
2. Pat shrimp and scallops dry. Gently toss them with marinade, cover and refrigerate about 3 hours. Assemble kebobs, dividing seafood so guests have 1 skewer of scallops and 1 skewer of shrimp each or alternately skewer scallops and shrimp. Reserve marinade left in bowl.
3. Brush grill rack lightly with oil before lighting fire to prevent sticking. Grill kebobs over a moderately hot fire in a covered grill, until shrimp and scallops are opaque, 6 to 8 minutes. Turn kebobs every 2 minutes to prevent sticking. Do not overcook. Spoon reserved marinade onto kebobs while cooking. Serve warm. –
