Sauteing is to French cooking what stir-frying is to Chinese: a time-honored quick cooking technique. Sweet, succulent sauteed fish fillets, chicken with apples and cream and mixed vegetables cooked in olive oil are just a sampling of the possibilities.
Sauter in French means ”to jump,” and when food is added to a hot pan with fat, it sputters, sizzles and almost jumps around. The primary difference between sauteing and frying is in the amount of fat used: Sauteing requires very little.
A food may be cooked by sauteing alone, or it may be sauteed after being steamed or boiled, or sauteed first before stewing or braising. Subsequent cooking is used to be sure the interior is done and to blend in sauce ingredients. However, the initial frying sets the essential flavor of the dish.
Because sauteing is quick, tender cuts of meat, such as steaks, chops and cutlets, work best. Uniformly shaped pieces of poultry, fish and vegetables also work well. As with stir-frying, most of the time-consuming tasks are in the preparation; the actual cooking time is short.
Equipment
A large, heavy-bottomed skillet with high sides and a long handle that stays cool works best. Heavier pans create an even heat that helps any food brown more evenly. Select a non-reactive pan such as one of stainless steel or anodized aluminum or with a non-stick coating if you are using any acid (lemon juice, tomatoes, vinegar) in the recipe. Non-stick pans make cleanup easier.
Method
1. Pat food dry before adding to hot fat to prevent excess sputtering and steaming. Some foods, such as fish fillets, benefit from a light coating of flour before cooking for better browning. If the food is coated with crumbs, refrigerate for about 20 minutes before sauteing to set the crumbs.
2. Clarified butter works best for sauteing because the whey and casein, which burn easily, have been removed. Also, clarified butter browns more evenly. (See clarifying method in following recipe.) Or you can use oil, butter or margarine or a combination of two or more fats. Adding oil to butter helps it reach a higher temperature without burning.
3. Heat pan thoroughly before adding fat to pan; a drop of water added to the pan should sizzle and evaporate quickly. Non-stick pans should not be preheated. Then heat the fat until hot (you should be able to smell the fat but not see any smoke). Hot fat helps prevent food from sticking and ensures proper browning. Use a minimum of fat-just enough to coat the bottom of the pan lightly. Once the fat is hot, adjust the heat to medium to saute most food.
4. Don`t crowd the food in the pan or it will steam rather than saute. Cook the food without moving it until nicely browned on the underside. Turn with a wide spatula and saute the second side. If cooking in batches, allow the pan and fat to return to full heat before adding the next batch. Remove the food from the pan as it is cooked and keep it hot in a warm oven. Do not cover sauteed food tightly or it will become soggy.
5. After sauteing the meat, you might want to saute a vegetable (such as shredded cabbage or sliced peppers or onions) in the remaining fat. You`ll save cleanup time and have more flavorful vegetables.
6. For a fast sauce, add 1/4 to 1/2 cup of liquid (stock, wine, vegetable cooking liquid, etc.) to the pan and boil the liquid while scraping up the browned bits from the bottom of the pan. Boil, stirring frequently, until the sauce is reduced to a thin syrup. This technique, known as deglazing, yields a thin sauce with a maximum of flavor.
Cooking times
Broiler/fryer chicken, cut up: Saute until nicely browned on all sides, about 5 minutes. Then cover pan and cook slowly until juices run clear, 20 to 25 minutes.
Boneless chicken or duck breast, veal or turkey cutlets: Pound slightly with a meat mallet or the bottom of a heavy skillet until evenly thick. Saute until golden on both sides and juices run clear, about 5 minutes total. Remove skin if desired.
Beef steaks: Select steaks about 3/4 inch thick. Saute, turning once, until barely springy to the touch for rare, 4 to 6 minutes. A few seconds later, when some red juice appears on the surface, they will be medium-rare.
Hamburgers: Shape patties about 1/2 inch thick. Saute, turning once, about 4 minutes for medium-rare.
Pork or veal chops: Select lean chops between 1/2 and 3/4 inch thick. Saute over medium-low heat, turning once, until fairly firm to the touch and juices run only slightly pink, 5 to 7 minutes. For thicker chops, add liquid to pan (water, broth or wine); cover pan and simmer, turning once until done, about 5 to 10 more minutes. Remove chops from pan and boil down juices until syrupy.
Vegetables: Saute cutup vegetables such as eggplant, onions, zucchini and bell peppers in fat until crisp-tender. Firm-textured vegetables, such as broccoli, cauliflower, carrots and green beans, are better partly cooked in boiling water for a few minutes first, then sauteed for added flavor.
FISH FILLETS WITH BROWN BUTTER
Preparation time: 10 minutes
Cooking time: 5 minutes
Yield: 4 servings
The best fish choices for sauteing include sole, flounder, snapper, trout and salmon fillets.
4 boneless fish fillets, 4 to 6 ounces each and 1/2 inch thick
Flour
Salt, pepper to taste
About 3 tablespoons vegetable oil or clarified butter; see note
2 tablespoons cold unsalted butter
1 lemon, cut into wedges
2 tablespoons each, optional: chopped green onion, chopped fresh herb (such as basil or cilantro)
1. Rinse fish; pat dry. Put flour onto a plate. Sprinkle fillets lightly on each side with salt and pepper. Just before cooking, place fillets one at a time in flour to coat each side lightly; shake off the excess.
2. Heat skillet large enough to hold fish in single layer over high heat
(or use two skillets). When a drop of water evaporates on contact, reduce heat to medium. Add 1/16 inch of oil or clarified butter. When it is very hot but not smoking or browning, add fish (skin side down), leaving a little space between each. Saute a minute or two on one side, turn carefully with a wide spatula. Saute until fish is springy to the touch, 1 to 2 more minutes. Immediately remove from the pan to warm plates (skin side down looks better). 3. Add cold butter to skillet; reduce heat to low. Stirring constantly, allow butter to brown just slightly. Pour over fish. Serve with lemon wedges. Sprinkle with green onion and chopped herb if using. Serve immediately.
Note: This recipe also can be used for boneless chicken breasts, turkey breast cutlets and veal or pork cutlets. Pound meat to a uniform thickness of about 1/4 inch. Sauteing time will be 2 to 4 minutes total.
To clarify butter: Melt butter over medium heat in small pan or in a microwave-safe container in microwave oven. Remove the foam (casein) from the top with a spoon and discard it. Then spoon the clear yellow liquid butter into a clean dish. Discard the milk-white liquid (whey) at bottom of pan. Clarified butter will keep in a jar in the refrigerator for several weeks or in small containers in the freezer for up to 2 months.
SAUTEED POTATOES, ONIONS AND PEPPERS
Preparation time: 15 minutes
Cooking time: 20 minutes
Yield: 6 servings
To speed up the sauteing, the potatoes are partly cooked in the microwave oven. For variety, try substituting seasoned salt or a Cajun spice mixture for the salt and pepper.
3 large baking potatoes, about 1 1/2 pounds
4 small onions, about 1 pound, halved, thinly sliced
2 small green bell peppers, seeded, diced
Vegetable oil
2 tablespoons butter or olive oil
Salt, pepper to taste
1. Scrub potatoes clean. Pierce in several places with the tip of a knife. Microwave on high (100 percent power), turning potatoes occasionally, for 10 minutes. (Or bake in a 350-degree oven for 30 minutes.) Prepare onions and green peppers.
2. Meanwhile, heat a 10-inch skillet with high sides over high heat until a drop of water sputters and evaporates on contact. Pour in just enough oil to barely cover bottom of skillet. Heat oil until hot but not smoking. Reduce heat to medium and add onions; saute, stirring frequently, until golden on edges, 6 to 7 minutes.
3. While onions are cooking, dice potatoes. Stir green peppers into onions; saute 1 minute. Stir in butter or olive oil and diced potatoes. Saute, stirring frequently, until potatoes are golden and tender, about 3 minutes. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Serve immediately.



