Once available only to hunters and their friends, game birds are winning increasing numbers of admirers among those who have no idea when hunting season is, but who appreciate the birds` bold taste.
”If you want intrinsic flavors with loads of character and meat that tastes good without a lot of dressing up, you should be eating game,” says George Faison, co-owner of D`Artagnan, a New Jersey distributor that sells game birds by mail.
Game birds surpass mass-produced poultry in taste. Their flavor ranges from mild to strong, depending on the variety and how they were raised. Domestic game birds that are allowed to range are leaner and slightly more gamy than those caged.
Traditionally, game birds were considered so lean that they were barded-enveloped with strips of fat or bacon-before roasting. With the right cooking method, most game birds need no extra fat to keep them moist.
Quick cooking and moist-heat methods prevent the lean breasts from drying out. The recipes offered here do just that.
Farm-raised birds are generally less expensive than wild birds and are readily available throughout the year. The familiar Pekin (or Long Island)
duck is sold in most supermarkets. Pheasant and quail can be found in specialty stores.
Ordering game birds by mail is expensive. Shipping and handling can easily add 25 percent or more to the cost of a total order. Yet even city dwellers who live near specialty stores that carry game may find that ordering by mail makes sense because the selection is greater, the quality may be better and the prices competitive. A phone call before ordering is imperative, since prices and shipping methods vary widely. Quail, squab, pheasant, partridge and duck are available from the following companies:
– D`Artagnan Inc., 399-419 St. Paul Ave., Jersey City, N.J. 07306, 800-327-8246.
– Game Exchange, 107 Quint St., San Francisco, Calif. 94124, 800-426-3872.
– Oakwood Game Farm Inc., Box 274, Princeton, Minn. 55371; 800-328-6647.
– Wild Game Inc., 2315 W. Huron St., Chicago, Ill. 60612; 312-278-1661.
– Wylie Hill Farm, Box 35, Craftsbury Common, Vt. 05827; 802-586-2887.
TANDOORI DUCK AND LENTILS
Preparation time: 45 minutes
Marinating time: 8 to 24 hours
Cooking time: 40 minutes
Yield: 4 servings
1 duck, 4 to 5 pounds, washed, dried
1 cup low-fat yogurt
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 tablespoon minced, peeled fresh ginger
1 tablespoon each: ground cumin, paprika
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon ground cardamom
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
2 teaspoons vegetable oil
1 medium onion, chopped
1 cup red lentils
1/2 teaspoon turmeric
1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper
1. Remove backbone and wing tips from duck with sharp knife or shears and cut duck into 4 serving pieces. Cut away skin and fat. Mix yogurt, garlic, ginger, cumin, paprika, 1 teaspoon of the salt, cardamom and cayenne pepper in shallow, non-aluminum dish.
2. Add duck pieces, turning to coat and marinate, covered, in refrigerator 8 to 24 hours, turning occasionally.
3. About 1/2 hour before serving, heat oil over medium heat in medium saucepan. Add onion and cook 6 to 8 minutes until translucent and lightly browned. Rinse lentils and add them to saucepan with turmeric, remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt, black pepper and 2 1/2 cups water. Heat to a boil, reduce heat to low and simmer uncovered, stirring occasionally, 15 to 20 minutes, or just until lentils are tender. Cover and set aside.
4. Meanwhile, prepare charcoal grill or heat broiler. Remove duck from marinade and grill on a lightly oiled rack or broil on rack. Grill or broil 5 to 7 minutes on one side until browned. Turn, baste with reserved marinade and discard marinade. Cook 8 to 10 minutes until juices run clear. Just before serving, briefly reheat lentils and serve with duck.
WINE-BRAISED QUAIL WITH SAGE
Preparation time: 25 minutes
Cooking time: 40 minutes
Yield: 4 servings
8 quail, washed, dried, skinned, trimmed of fat
1/4 cup all-purpose flour
Salt, freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 cup dry white wine
2 ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded, finely chopped (or 1 16-ounce can whole tomatoes, drained, finely chopped)
4 teaspoons finely chopped fresh sage leaves or 1/2 teaspoon dried
1. Tie quail legs together and tuck wing tips under bird. Combine flour, salt and pepper in a shallow dish. Dredge quail in flour mixture. Heat oil in large non-stick skillet over medium-high heat and brown birds well, 5 to 6 minutes. Pour off fat.
2. Add wine, tomatoes and sage, and boil 1 to 2 minutes. Reduce heat to low, cover and cook, turning occasionally, until birds are tender and juices run clear, about 20 minutes. Remove birds to warm platter.
3. Boil sauce over medium-high heat until thickened, about 10 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper; spoon over quail.
