When you think of cooking classes, you might imagine sweating it out in a hot, crowded kitchen or perhaps sitting in folding chairs at the local park district. Make no mistake, such classes occupy an important place in the world of culinary education.
But who would argue that a course of culinary learning wouldn`t have lot more impact if undertaken in a 19th Century chateau in the Loire Valley of France?
Domaine de la Tortiniere, just outside of Tours, presides over such a setting. Primarily, this rambling, whitewashed manor house, built during the Second Empire, is a chic summer getaway for Europeans and Americans. And in the spring and fall, cooking classes are added to the hotel`s list of amenities.
Classes are taught by Edouard Wehrlin, the 30-year-old chef of the hotel restaurant, who was in Chicago recently with Denise Olivereau-Capron, owner of Domaine de la Tortiniere. The lessons roughly follow the hotel`s menu, from appetizers through dessert. Students, most of whom are Americans, learn the intricacies of haute cuisine, which, surprisingly, are much simpler than myth would have you believe.
Olivereau-Capron explained that unlike many French chefs-men with fearful reputations and tongues sharp as boning knives-Wehrlin is ideally suited for teaching. He is quiet and content to let others take charge of conversation until the subject turns to food. Though he speaks only French, he discerns words that relate to food. Hearing his favorite subject enter a conversation, he becomes animated and eager to share his thoughts through Olivereau-Capron or the translator who assists him in cooking classes.
Wehrlin`s cooking style is an offshoot of classical French that, as he describes it, blends classicism with nouvelle cuisine. ”It`s not eccentric but it is lighter. Presentation is important, but it isn`t `too, too.` Fish isn`t raw, it`s cooked. Vegetables are cooked the way they`re supposed to be, not too hard,” he explained.
Most of the students who sign on for classes already have nailed down the basics and want to enhance their skills and experiences. But Olivereau-Capron points out that the lessons are within the grasp of anyone with an interest-even someone who has mastered nothing beyond grilling.
”Cooking is not very difficult, even French cooking, although some people would like you to believe otherwise,” Olivereau-Capron said.
”Husbands sign up with their wives, and by the time they leave here, they`re rolling out puff pastry with a real mastery of it.”
Because a stay at the chateau is primarily a vacation, the cooking classes don`t prevent students from taking advantage of their stay. Held in the morning, classes conclude with a sampling of the food the students have made. Then, in the afternoon, there is ample opportunity to visit local markets, neighboring vineyards or just take it easy.
Ann Buckley, a tour organizer from north suburban Lake Bluff and a former student at Domaine de la Tortiniere, pointed out that the ”no pain, no gain” school of thought doesn`t necessarily apply to cooking classes. Lessons are just as easily learned in a pleasant setting. ”It was one of my best cooking experiences, more like going to visit a family.” Indeed, a very gracious family with a very talented chef.
Buckley is organizing a trip to Domaine de la Tortiniere from October 18 to 24. For information, contact her at 708-234-0246. The cost of $2700 includes accommodations, all meals, cooking classes and day excursions throughout the area.
Here is a recipe from Domaine de la Tortiniere that is served in the restaurant and taught in the classes.
FILET OF BEEF WITH RED ONIONS
Preparation time: 30 minutes
Cooking time: 1 hour
Yield: 4 servings
Sauce:
1/4 cup ( 1/2 stick) unsalted butter
1 pound red onions, cut in slivers
1 cup dry red wine
1/3 cup creme de cassis (black currant liqueur)
2 tablespoons sugar
Salt, pepper to taste
Beef:
5 tablespoons unsalted butter
4 filet mignons, 6 ounces each
2 cups dry red wine
6 shallots, minced
1 branch fresh thyme
Salt, pepper
1. For the sauce, melt the butter in a large skillet. Add the onions;
cook until limp, about 5 minutes. Add wine, creme de cassis and sugar; cook gently, uncovered, until onions are very soft and the liquid has cooked away, about 35 to 40 minutes. Add salt and pepper to taste.
2. For beef, melt 1 tablespoon of the butter in a heavy skillet. Cook steaks, turning once, until cooked as desired, about 4 to 6 minutes per side for medium-rare. Transfer steaks to a heated platter and keep warm.
3. Turn heat to high under skillet. Pour in the red wine; stir up any browned bits from the bottom of the pan. Add the shallots and thyme; boil over high heat until the sauce is reduced to about 3/4 cup.
4. Cut the remaining 4 tablespoons butter into 4 pieces. Turn the heat to low; whisk butter in, one piece at a time, waiting until each piece is incorporated before adding the next. Add salt and pepper to taste.
5. Strain the sauce onto 4 plates. Place a nest of onions in the center of each plate; top with a steak.
