To aid in matching wine with food, here is a spectrum of recipes. They range from the classic combination of beef and red wine to a soup made with asparagus, often cited as a vegetable antagonistic to wine.
CREAM OF ASPARAGUS SOUP
Preparation time: 20 minutes
Cooking time: 1 1/4 hours
Yield: 6 to 8 servings
If you prefer a chilled soup, use buttermilk in place of the cream. The recipe is adapted from ”The Silver Palate Cookbook” by Julee Rosso and Sheila Lukins. Look for a dry riesling that combines acidity and fruity sweetness.
1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter
4 large sweet onions, chopped
8 cups chicken stock or broth
2 pounds asparagus
1/2 cup whipping cream
Salt, pepper to taste
1. Heat butter in a large saucepan. Add onions and cook gently, stirring often, until they are very soft and golden, about 25 minutes. Add chicken stock; heat to a boil.
2. Meanwhile, trim off asparagus tips; reserve. Cut away the very woody ends from bottom of spears. Chop spears into 1 1/2-inch pieces and add to broth. Cover, reduce heat and simmer until asparagus is soft, 40 minutes.
3. Force soup, broth and all through medium disc of a food mill or puree in a food processor or blender. Return puree to pot; add tips. Simmer just until tender, about 5 minutes. Add cream, salt and pepper.
BOEUF BOURGUIGNON
Preparation time: 45 minutes
Cooking time: 2 1/2 hours
Yield: 8 servings
This hearty stew is adapted from Richard Grausman`s ”At Home With French Classics.” Genuine wine from the Burgundy region of France has become too expensive for cooking. Instead, prepare the stew with French Cotes-du-Rhone or California zinfandel and pour the same wine when you serve it.
1/4 cup vegetable oil
3 pounds beef chuck, cut in 1 1/2-inch cubes
1 onion, diced
1 small carrot, diced
1/3 cup flour
1/4 cup Cognac, optional
3 cups dry red wine
1 1/2 cups beef stock or broth
2 shallots, sliced
4 cloves garlic, sliced
1 tablespoon tomato paste
1 teaspoon meat glaze, optional
Bouquet garni (2 parsley sprigs, 1 bay leaf, 1/2 teaspoon thyme tied in cheesecloth)
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon ground pepper
24 pearl onions, peeled, root end intact
12-18 tiny new potatoes, peeled
1 pound smoked slab bacon, rind trimmed, cut into 1/2-inch rectangles
12 ounces mushrooms, halved or quartered, if large
Parsley sprigs for garnish
1. Heat oil in a large flameproof casserole and brown beef in batches. Add the onion and carrot to meat and brown slightly, about 3 minutes. Sprinkle flour over meat and vegetables and cook, stirring occasionally, 5 minutes.
2. Remove casserole from heat, add Cognac and carefully ignite. When flame subsides, add wine, beef broth, shallots, garlic, tomato paste, meat glaze, bouquet garni, salt and pepper. Cover and simmer gently, until beef is tender, 1 1/2 to 2 hours or more, depending on the meat. Skim foam occasionally as it rises to surface, especially at the beginning of cooking.
3. Meanwhile, drop pearl onions into boiling water and cook until tender, about 10 minutes; drain and set aside. Boil or steam potatoes until tender, about 20 minutes; drain and set aside.
4. Put bacon in a small pan and cover with cold water. Heat to a boil;
rinse and drain. Repeat process once more; drain well. Fry bacon in a skillet until crisp; drain on paper towels. Drain off all but 2 tablespoons fat from the skillet. Fry mushrooms until tender; season with salt and pepper.
5. When beef is tender, use a slotted spoon to transfer it to a large serving bowl. Add onions, mushrooms, potatoes and bacon.
6. Skim fat from surface of cooking liquid. Sauce should be consistency of whipping cream. If it is too thick, thin with water; if it is too thin, boil to reduce slightly. Adjust seasoning and strain sauce over meat and vegetables.
GRILLED CHICKEN SALAD
Preparation time: 30 minutes
Marinating time: 30 minutes
Cooking time: 9 minutes
Yield: 4 servings
Adapted from ”Cooking With the New American Chefs” by Ellen Brown. Complex ingredients advise against serving an exquisite wine. Instead, try a well-chilled white zinfandel, which has enough sweetness to counter the acid in the citrus.
1 head red leaf lettuce
2 bunches mache or watercress
1 bunch cilantro, stems removed
1 each, ripe: papaya, avocado, mango
2 each: oranges, nectarines
1 lime
1 cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 whole chicken breasts, split, boned but not skinned
Salt, pepper to taste
1. Wash and dry greens; tear into bite-size pieces. Peel and slice papaya, avocado and mango. Peel and section oranges, removing white membrane. Slice nectarines.
2. Juice the lime and mix with oil. Marinate all the fruit in the oil mixture for at least 30 minutes.
3. Sprinkle chicken with salt and pepper. Grill over hot charcoal until cooked, 8 to 9 minutes. Slice across the grain; keep warm.
4. To assemble, place greens on a platter. Arrange fruit over greens and top with chicken. Pour any remaining marinade over and garnish with cilantro. GRILLED SALMON WITH LEEKS AND PINOT NOIR BUTTER
Preparation time: 25 minutes
Marinating time: 5 to 6 hours
Cooking time: 25 minutes
Yield: 4 servings
Adapted from ”The Wolfgang Puck Cookbook.” Choose a pinot noir from Oregon or California`s central coast. Make the butter with the wine and pour the remainder with the meal. (You will have four 4-ounce servings. If the diners are four thirsty adults, buy a second bottle.)
4 salmon fillets, 6 to 8 ounces each
2-3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Freshly ground white pepper
8 baby leeks, cut in julienne strips
1 cup pinot noir wine
1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, softened
12 ounces chanterelle mushrooms
1 tablespoon minced fresh herbs, such as tarragon or chervil
1. Sprinkle salmon with oil, pepper and a little of the leeks. Cover and refrigerate 5 to 6 hours.
2. Boil wine and 1/4 cup leeks in a saucepan until reduced to 3 tablespoons. Over low heat, whisk in 6 tablespoons butter, one at a time until each one is fully incorporated before adding another. Do not boil. Add salt and pepper to taste. Strain into a pan; keep warm.
3. Heat 1 tablespoon butter in a skillet. Cook leeks over medium-high heat until tender, 4 to 6 minutes. Add salt and pepper; remove from pan and set aside in a warm spot. Melt remaining butter and cook mushrooms just until tender, 3 to 5 minutes. Season with salt, pepper and herbs; keep warm.
4. Grill the salmon over hot charcoal, preferably with some mesquite, until cooked medium-rare, about 4 minutes per side. Or broil for same length of time.
5. To serve, spread sauce over 4 plates; top with salmon. Garnish with leeks and mushrooms.
