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Because fillets seem to cook in the blink of an eye, overdone fish stands out as a hazard of the conventional oven.

But by cooking fish in the microwave, you can watch the news instead of the oven-and avoid overcooking.

Shirley King writes in ”Fish: The Basics” that ”the precision timing the microwave oven offers can help cook seafood just right-tender and moist. The microwave can be set to cook for a few seconds to a few minutes, so we can`t forget about a dish for a few critical moments.”

Most microwave cookbooks recommend three to six minutes per pound of boneless fish cooked on high (100 percent power) as a guide. To be safe, microwave fish for the shorter time, then check to see if it`s done.

Recipes that call for fillets, steaks, chunks or whole fish to be steamed, baked, poached or stewed transfer best to the microwave. For recipes that need browning or crisping, King suggests running microwaved fish under a broiler briefly to brown or glaze it.

Another advantage of the microwave is that fresh fish cooks without added moisture or fat-a boon for health-minded cooks who`ve sworn off butter and heavy sauces.

So forget about heating the oven ahead of time and follow these steps for savory, succulent microwaved fish.

Prep time

Successful microwaved fish starts at the seafood counter. Using the correct preparation methods and cooking utensils also is important.

– Choose steaks and pieces of uniform size, as these will microwave more evenly.

– Thaw frozen fish completely before microwaving to avoid uneven cooking. And remember, it will microwave faster than fresh fish.

– Use microwave-safe plates for individual portions, shallow platters or casseroles for larger amounts.

– Arrange fillets with the thicker parts pointing outward and the thinner sections toward the center of the dish. If possible, roll fillets for more even cooking.

– Don`t salt fish before microwaving; it will toughen and dry.

– Forgo brush-on browning agents or browning skillets in favor of browning on the stovetop or in the broiler.

– Make a few diagonal slashes though the skin of whole fish so they won`t burst during cooking.

– Don`t use raw stuffings; they won`t microwave as quickly as fish. For the same reason, microwave vegetable side dishes first and keep them covered while the fish cooks.

Under cover

Covering fish helps it microwave faster and more evenly, writes the Tribune`s Patricia Tennison in ”Glorious Fish in the Microwave.”

– When a recipe calls for a tight-fitting cover, use a lid or plastic wrap, which holds in moisture. Vent the plastic wrap in one or two places, preferably between fillets, to allow some of the heat to escape.

– Cover thin fillets with paper toweling, which absorbs excess moisture. Wax paper traps some moisture, making it a better choice for thicker fillets or steaks.

– Cover large steaks and whole fish with plastic wrap to keep them from drying. Shielding the head and tail with 2-inch strips of foil also keeps it moist by deflecting microwaves. (Make sure the foil isn`t crumpled or folded over; when metal touches metal it can cause sparks in the microwave.)

The main event

– As mentioned above, allow three to six minutes per pound of boneless fish microwaved on high. However, quantity, shape, thickness and variety all affect microwave cooking times, write Jean Anderson and Elaine Hanna in

”Micro Ways.”

– Expect oily varieties such as mackerel, pompano, shad, catfish, bluefish, swordfish and tuna to cook more slowly than lean types such as flounder, cod, red snapper, haddock and bass. The exception is salmon which, although oily, microwaves like a lean fish.

– Microwave thin fillets (up to 1/2 inch) on high (100 percent power). Thicker fillets and steaks may need to be cooked on medium (50 percent power), so they`ll have time to cook evenly.

– Set the microwave for the shorter time if a recipe gives an approximate cooking time. Then check for doneness. Rotate the dish halfway through cooking.

– To poach fish in the microwave, bring about one cup of liquid (fish stock, wine or water) per pound of fish to a boil. Add the fish and cover with plastic wrap, then cook as described above.

– Remove fish from the microwave the instant it turns opaque. Any small

(1-inch) translucent area in the center of fillets, steak or chunks will finish cooking as the fish stands.

– When in doubt, undercook. Fillets or steaks microwaved until they flake easily may overcook once removed from the oven.

– Cookbooks generally recommend a standing time of two to three minutes for thin pieces of fish, four to five minutes for thicker ones.

Final touches

Once fish is cooked, follow these tips to make it look and taste its best.

– Handle cooked fish with care; it`s fragile.

– Save any juice that accumulates in the dish to make a sauce later, King suggests. If a recipe doesn`t call for a sauce, add color to the fish by sprinkling it with paprika and/or parsley, or other fresh herbs and spices.

– Prepare simple sauces while the fish stands; more elaborate ones should be made ahead and kept warm or reheated.

RED SNAPPER AND TORTILLA-LIME SOUP

Preparation time: 25 minutes

Microwave cooking time:

13 to 17 minutes

Yield: 4 servings

This recipe is adapted from ”Glorious Fish in the Microwave” by Patricia Tennison.

6 corn tortillas

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

1 teaspoon minced garlic

1/4 cup minced onion

2 medium tomatoes, peeled, seeded, chopped

1/4 teaspoon cumin seeds

1/2 teaspoon chili powder

1 bay leaf, broken in half

2 cups chicken stock or broth

1/4 teaspoon salt

Dash of cayenne

3/4 pound red snapper fillets, cut into 1-inch chunks

1 tablespoon fresh lime juice

1 small avocado, peeled and cubed

1/2 cup shredded cheddar cheese

1. Cut tortillas into 3/4-inch strips; spread on paper towel-lined floor of microwave oven. Do not cover. Microwave on high (100 percent power) until tortillas start to curl up and dry out, 1 to 2 minutes. Spread on counter to cool.

2. Put oil, garlic, onion and tomatoes in 2 1/2-quart casserole. Cover. Microwave on high to soften vegetables, 2 to 3 minutes. Stir in cumin, chili powder, bay leaf, chicken stock, salt and cayenne. Cover. Microwave on high until boiling, 6 to 7 minutes.

3. Stir in snapper and cover. Microwave on high until centers of chunks are just opaque, 4 to 5 minutes. Stir in lime juice and tortilla strips. Top with avocado and cheese; serve immediately.

BENGAL-STYLE SPICY MUSTARD-RUBBED TUNA

Preparation time: 25 minutes

Marinating time: 15 minutes

Microwave cooking time: 6 1/2 minutes

Yield: 4 servings

This recipe is adapted from ”Moghul Microwave” (William Morrow and Co., $27.95) by Julie Sahni.

1 teaspoon each: cayenne pepper, dry mustard, ground cumin, minced garlic

3 tablespoons mustard oil or olive oil (divided use)

4 tuna steak fillets, about 1/4-pound each

2 tablespoons julienned fresh ginger

2 small bell peppers, 1 green and 1 red, cored and julienned

Coarse (kosher) salt to taste, if desired

3 tablespoons whipping cream, milk or water

1 tablespoon Dijon-style mustard

1 teaspoon lemon juice

1. Mix cayenne, dry mustard, cumin and garlic with 2 teaspoons oil into a paste in a small bowl and rub over tuna. Cover and marinate for 15 minutes.

2. Heat remainder of oil in a 10-inch microwave-safe skillet or casserole dish, uncovered, on high (100 percent power) for 3 minutes. Remove from oven, add tuna and turn to coat with oil. Scatter ginger and pepper strips around tuna and sprinkle with salt. Combine cream and Dijon mustard; pour over vegetables and tuna. Turn and roll tuna and peppers lightly to coat with cream mixture and cover with the lid.

3. Cook on high until tuna is just cooked, about 3 1/2 minutes. Remove from oven, uncover and arrange tuna and vegetables on a heated platter. Stir lemon juice into the sauce, pour over tuna and serve.