I recently returned from a working trip to France, where I was in pursuit of bistro food. In Provence and in Paris, certain classic dishes kept reappearing on these robust menus. The most constant characteristics were a reliance on local seasonal ingredients and a desire for simplicity in each dish.
One might expect that roast chicken would be a common menu item. Not so. The anticipated chicken might be a rabbit or a small bird, simply fricasseed in its own juice, a little stock and wine, but rarely roasted plain.
Of the many menu selections-fresh sardines, marinated herring and warm potatoes, artichokes a la barigoule, mussels in many guises, steak with shallots and frites, to name a few-my favorites were thick onion soup with sizzling cheese croutons, ratatouille and apple tarte tatin. Curiously, these dishes appear frequently on many American menus, dishes so delicious we have come to adopt them as our own.
Consider these recipes for typical bistro cooking. That a mound of onions slowly sweated, then caramelized and cooked in broth produces such a heavenly result is amazing in a culinary age in which soups have become so much more complex. Finished off with a toasted garlic crouton and sizzling gruyere cheese, it’s a meal in itself.
The ratatouille is a mixture of puree-tender vegetables, still somewhat intact, that cooks down slowly in its own juices.
The apple tarte tatin, actually an upside-down apple pie of the highest order, boasts a caramelized finish that is irresistible. Served warm with vanilla ice cream, it’s one of my absolute passions.
These recipes were not intended to comprise a menu, but they would make a great meal; the gratinee onion soup, followed by ratatouille with a side of sausage, selection of cheeses and great crusty bread, then the dessert, apple tarte tatin.
Slowly sweating and then caramelizing the onions are essential steps for a sweet, rich-tasting onion soup.
GRATINEE LYONNAISE ONION SOUP WITH BROILED CHEESE CROUTONS
Preparation time: 25 minutes
Cooking time: 1 1/2 hours
Yield: 4 servings
Soup:
1 tablespoon each: butter, vegetable oil
3 large Spanish onions, about 3 pounds total, thinly sliced
1/4 teaspoon salt
Freshly ground pepper
2 teaspoons sugar
3 1/2 cups beef broth
1 3/4 cups low-salt chicken broth
Croutons:
4 1/2-inch thick baguette slices
1 garlic clove, split
1 1/3 cups grated gruyere cheese
1. For soup, heat butter and oil in 3-quart non-aluminum saucepan over medium- high heat. When hot, add onions, salt and pepper. Toss to mix well. Press a piece of waxed paper over onions to cover them completely. Cook gently, covered, until onions are very soft, about 30 minutes, stirring occasionally.
2. Remove paper. Add sugar. Cook over medium high heat until onions take on light brown coloring and are caramelized. This will take about 20 minutes, watching carefully and stirring as the edges caramelize. Often, you may want to remove pot from heat for better control as you stir edges into onion mixture.
3. Add both broths. Simmer, covered, for 40 minutes. Adjust seasoning. Can be made a few days ahead and refrigerated. Before serving, heat until very hot.
4. For croutons, arrange bread single layer on baking sheet. Bake at 250 degrees until lightly toasted, about 15 minutes a side. Remove from oven and rub with cut edges of garlic. To serve, set toasted bread in individual deep ovenproof soup bowls. Ladle boiling soup over bread. Place bowls on baking sheet. Sprinkle each with cheese, dividing evenly. Broil until browned and sizzling. Serve immediately.
This is a versatile vegetable mix; it can be served warm, chilled or at room temperature. Because the zucchini is sauteed first and added midway in the cooking, it maintains a nice green color that makes the presentation more interesting. Reserving 1/2 tablespoon of the oil and mixing it into the vegetables after they are cooked rounds out the flavors beautifully.
RATATOUILLE
Preparation time: 25 minutes
Draining time: 30 minutes
Cooking time: 1 hour
Yield: 6 servings
2 medium eggplants, peeled, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
1 1/4 teaspoons salt
2 1/2 tablespoons olive oil
1 medium zucchini, cut into 1/3-inch cubes
1 large Spanish onion, minced
6 large garlic cloves, minced
2 medium plum tomatoes, seeded, cut into 1/3-inch dice
1/2 red bell pepper, cut into 1/3-inch dice
1/2 teaspoon each: dried thyme, basil
Freshly ground pepper
1. Combine eggplant and 1 teaspoon salt in colander. Let drain 30 minutes. Rinse well. Blot excess moisture with paper towels.
2. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in 12-inch non-stick skillet over medium-high heat. When hot, add zucchini and remaining 1/4 teaspoon salt. Cook quickly until a bright green and heated thoroughly, about 3 minutes, stirring often. Use slotted spoon to set aside.
3. Add 1 more tablespoon oil to pan. When hot, add onion and garlic. Cook until onion softens, stirring often to avoid scorching, about 4 minutes. Add eggplant, tomatoes, red pepper, herbs and pepper. Stir well. Cover tightly. Cook gently, stirring often, for 25 minutes.
4. Add zucchini and collected juices. Stir well. Cook gently, covered, until zucchini is tender but still intact, 25 more minutes. Remove from heat. Stir in remaining 1/2 tablespoon oil. Adjust seasoning. Can be made several days ahead and refrigerated. Serve chilled, at room temperature or warm, gently reheated.
Here, the trick is to stop the caramelizing process before it burns. Having a pan of ice nearby is great insurance. A cast-iron 9-inch skillet is best for this dessert. Granny Smith apples provide the right tartness.
APPLE TART TATIN
Preparation time: 25 minutes
Cooking time: 1 hour 10 minutes
Yield: 6 servings
2/3 cup plus 3 tablespoons sugar
3 tablespoons butter
10 medium Granny Smith apples, about 6 ounces each, peeled, cut into eighths
1 teaspoon cinnamon
Pastry for 11-inch diameter crust
Vanilla ice cream, for serving
1. Set rack in lower third of oven; heat oven to 400 degrees. Have ready 9-inch cast iron skillet and a baking sheet.
2. For caramel, put 2/3 cup of the sugar in the skillet. Cook over medium-high heat until sugar is golden brown, about 5 minutes, swirling pan occasionally. Place skillet on ice to stop browning.
3. Dot caramel in skillet with 2 tablespoons butter, cut into small pieces. Combine remaining 3 tablespoons sugar and cinnamon in large bowl. Toss apples in the mixture. Arrange apples tightly together around edge of skillet, rounded side down. Fill in center in concentric circle. Add a second layer of apples, filling in any separations. Apples should be tightly packed. Dot surface with remaining butter, cut into small bits.
4. Place pastry on top of apples. Tuck pastry edges down around sides of pan and apples. Place skillet on baking sheet (to catch any juices).
5. Bake until crust is browned and juices appear thickened, about 1 hour and 10 minutes. Let stand 10 minutes. Place platter over skillet. Gently invert tart onto platter. Can be made a few hours ahead and kept at room temperature. Tart can be reheated gently on serving platter at 250-degrees until barely warm, about 7 minutes. Serve with vanilla ice cream.
