The wines of Alsace, which are among the best values in wine today, work fabulously with a variety of dishes as well as being pleasant to drink by themselves.
The range of wines is enormous and offers a great deal of pleasure at a reasonable range of $10 to $20. Riesling, muscat, sylvaner and pinot blanc are ideal for summer months and lighter food or as aperitifs. Gewurztraminer and tokay-pinot gris match richer dishes, such as duck or pork.
The noble wines
Alsace’s wines are unique in France for being the only appellation controllee wines labeled by grape variety. Even though vineyard site and township does influence the character of the final product, with Alsace it is as if the grapes themselves are of primary importance.
Of the many varieties, four are considered noble: riesling, gewurztraminer, muscat and pinot gris. The last often is known by its local name, tokay, which has nothing to do with the similar sounding dessert wine from Hungary called “tokaji.”
These four noble varieties are classified into several levels of quality and richness.
The most basic wines are simply appellation Alsace controlee and appear with the simple regional varietal names of riesling, muscat, gewurztraminer and tokay-pinot gris on the label. Sometimes the label will list the village of origin if the wine is not blended with wine from another village.
The next level, which requires a lower yield per acre, is called Alsace grand cru. The name of the grape variety then is accompanied by an approved vineyard name. These same varieties can be further distinguished by late picking-making wines that are richer and more concentrated but not necessarily sweet-called vendages tardives.
The final, most ripe, level is called selection des grains nobles (selection of noble berries). These wines are similar to German dessert wines and are very rich, unctuous and sweet. But the French wine is about 20 percent higher in alcohol than the German, which makes the Alsace SGN wines fuller bodied and less fruity than the German. These wines are great for dessert or on their own after a meal, but because of their scarcity and the difficulty of making late harvest wines, they are costly-among the most costly of all wines.
The not-so-noble
On the other end of the scale, Alsace offers white wines that are not considered noble but still make for great drinking pleasure with any meal or as aperitifs. The two main varieties are pinot blanc and sylvaner.
Pinot blanc tastes like a lesser cousin of chardonnay: mild in intensity of flavor but with apple, pear and vanilla components that make it immediately appealing. Unlike chardonnay, it often lacks much acidity and does not age well, so it is best to drink pinot blanc as young as possible, preferably within the year it is released and no more than three years after the vintage.
Sylvaner is even less expressive in flavor than pinot blanc, but it does have slightly better acidity, so it is a good match with shellfish, oysters and light fish dishes. It too is at its best when consumed very young.
You sometimes may find simple, but interesting pinot noir from Alsace. In ripe vintages like 1989 and 1990, there even can be relatively deep colored pinot that looks like a Burgundy but tastes less concentrated and focused. On the whole, pinot noir from Alsace is light in color as well as flavor. But as with the other non-noble varieties, Alsace pinot noir is a wine to enjoy in the prime of its youth.
An enlightened way to explore the Alsace region is to buy one of each of these varieties from the recommended list that follows.
Tastings
Trimbach Clos Saint Hune 1985 ($50)
(STAR)(STAR)(STAR)(STAR)/96
A very famous and revered name in Alsace, Clos Ste Hune is Trimbach’s finest vineyard and one of the greatest in Alsace. It is justly regarded for producing wines that age forever. The classic riesling nose can suggest minerals, spices, grapefruit and lemon peel and beeswax. It is totally dry and lean, as well as being more vinous than fruity. The wine has great length and freshness, as well as intensity.
(Check mark) Domaine Weinbach Gewurztraminer Cuvee Theo 1992 ($19)
(STAR)(STAR)(STAR)(STAR)/93
Rich, opulent wine with a clove and honeysuckle nose, tropical fruits on the palate and a long, intense finish. This is a wine that should be enjoyed with rich, spicy dishes such as pork stuffed with prunes or Szechwan cuisine.
(Check mark) Domaine Roland Schmitt Gewurztraminer Grand Cru Altenberg de Bergbeiten 1992 ($19)
(STAR)(STAR)(STAR)(STAR)/91
Intense flavors with aromas marked by tropical fruits as well as by the characteristic lychee nut. The wine is not overly sweet, but balanced for freshness.
Trimbach Riesling Cuvee Frederique Emile 1989 ($20)
(STAR)(STAR)(STAR)(STAR)/91
Trimbach’s style is for dry wines, yet with the special cuvees for riesling (Frederique Emile) and gewurztraminer (Seigneurs de Ribeaupierre) they attain an intensity and balance that is inimitable. This particular wine is balanced and firm, yet with round pineapple and waxy flavors.
(Check mark) Albert Boxler Pinot Noir 1992, Niedermorschwhir ($17)
(STAR)(STAR)(STAR)(STAR)/90
Brilliant limestone character with long firm finish. A light but subtle and elegant pinot noir that could come as easily from Santenay in Burgundy as from Alsace. Most pinot noirs from Alsace never attain this degree of perfection.
(Check mark) Domaine Ostertag Pinot Gris En Barrique 1992 ($20)
(STAR)(STAR)(STAR)(STAR)/90
This is one of Andre Ostertag’s much discussed oak barrel aged wines. The barrel aging lends a supple roundness to the texture of this wine, yet it is still brimming with well-defined bright varietal character, spicy and aromatic.
(Check mark) Domaine Weinbach Cuvee Theo Riesling 1992 ($18)
(STAR)(STAR)(STAR)(STAR)/90
Rich and harmonious, broad pineapple and tropical fruit flavors yet with a firm structure. Very long on the palate.
Zind-Humbrecht Tokay Pinot Gris Vieilles Vignes 1992 ($18)
(STAR)(STAR)(STAR)(STAR)/90
This is a perennially good bottling of a unique wine. The Zind-Humbrecht style is the antithesis of Trimbach. Zind-Humbrecht aims for opulent and exotic wines that are the result of ripeness above all, yet the wines must have structure, length and harmony. Round pear flavors with a spicy rich aroma mark the nose of this wine. It is unctuous without being sweet, mouthfilling without being heavy. Superb with foie gras or sweetbreads.
(Check mark) Domaine Ostertag Pinot Blanc En Barrique 1992 ($15)
(STAR)(STAR)(STAR)/89
Light soft aroma of vanilla and pear with the palate very supple and mouthfilling. The flavor intensity is moderate, and the finish is medium long and elegant. This is one of the finest pinot blancs for light seafood and poultry available, and is unique in that it is aged in small oak barrels, a controversial practice in Alsace.
Marcel Deiss Gewurztraminer 1990 ($16)
(STAR)(STAR)(STAR)/88
Marcel Deiss can work magic with the gewurztraminer grape. The ripeness of the vintage is balanced with good acidity, the wine is fermented dry. The spicy grapefruit aromas, the firm mouthfeel and the intensity of flavor is admirable though this bottling is labeled with only a regional appellation.
Zind-Humbrecht Riesling Herrenweg Turckheim 1991 ($20)
(STAR)(STAR)(STAR)/88
Light citrus, beeswax and pineapple aromas, lean and long on the palate. Not as rich as one expects from Zind-Humbrecht, but all the better for drinking with fish and shellfish.
(Check mark) Trimbach Pinot Gris Reserve Personelle 1988 ($15)
(STAR)(STAR)(STAR)/88
Creamy texture, ripe flavors and good concentration. There are some spicy and sweet pear characteristics with crisp pineapple highlights. Well balanced, though on the overtly sweet side, and full bodied. Great finish that grows on you.
Marc Kreydenweiss Clos du Val d’Eleon 1990 ($19)
(STAR)(STAR)(STAR)/87
Fresh crisp riesling flavor with some mild pinot blanc or other more neutral but round variety in the blend. Good focus and length on the palate, quite the best from Kreydenwiess.
(Check mark) Kuentz-Bas Riesling Reserve Personelle 1990 ($16)
(STAR)(STAR)(STAR)/87
Somewhat muted on the nose but with ripe and opulent peach, honey and pineapple flavors on the palate. Though this is a sweet ripe wine, the finish has a lemony firmness. Totally mature now.
Domaine Weinbach Muscat Reserve Personelle 1992 ($17)
(STAR)(STAR)(STAR)/87
Light orange and honeydew flavors with a slightly sweet flavor balance, soft and grainy texture.
Trimbach Gewurztraminer Seigneurs de Ribeaupierre 1988 ($19)
(STAR)(STAR)(STAR)/86
This leaner style of gewurztraminer is suited to food. There are elegant citrus notes, such as grapefruit and lemon peel, and some mineral aromas. The wine is round and ripe, but not overtly sweet. A good choice for spicy Thai or Szechwan food, or for roasted pork tenderloin.
Marc Kreydenweiss Kritt Gewurztraminer 1991 ($20)
(STAR)(STAR)(STAR)/85
Medium intense expression of gewurztraminer, slightly sweet on palate, grapefruit and rose petal nose.
(Check mark) Domaine Roland Schmitt Sylvaner 1992 ($11)
(STAR)(STAR)(STAR)/85
This is a very light but citrusy and fresh sylvaner, typical of the delicate and racy style of Roland Schmitt.
Domaine Roland Schmitt 1992 Gewurztraminer Glintzberg ($12)
(STAR)(STAR)(STAR)/85
This has a light touch of grapefruit flavor and aroma, firm acidity and is slightly lacking concentration but should be great with food. It shows flawless winemaking skills.
(Check mark) Domaine Weinbach Reserve Sylvaner 1992 ($12)
(STAR)(STAR)(STAR)/85
Moderate acidity, light and dry with a lemon peel and mineral finish. The perfect wine to enjoy with light shellfish and oysters.
(Check mark) Marc Kreydenweiss Andlau Riesling 1991 ($13)
(STAR)(STAR)(STAR)/84
Light correct riesling flavors, pineapple and citrus, with a mild finish.
Albert Seltz Pinot Blanc 1990
($10)
(STAR)(STAR)(STAR)/84
Fine flavor definition for a regular pinot blanc. Vanilla, ripe apple and length with some mineral flavors and stoniness. Ready to drink.
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Star/point system
(STAR) 60-69 points (poor)
(STAR)(STAR) 70-79 points (average)
(STAR)(STAR)(STAR) 80-89 points (good)
(STAR)(STAR)(STAR)(STAR) 90-100 points (outstanding)
(Check mark) (outstanding value)
