You’ve moved in and one of the first things you have to do may break your heart: You have to make holes in those brand-new, smooth walls to hang pictures.
Keep in mind that it’s worth the hassle to finish decorating a room and to showcase a work of art. So put aside your reservations and tackle those walls.
Here are a few guidelines.
A good picture should be hung at eye level. This may vary from room to room. Paintings hung in a room where people will normally be standing, such as a foyer or hallway, should be hung higher than those in the dining room where people will be seated.
People generally like to step back to appreciate a picture (the distance required depends upon the size and content of the picture); so grand pictures should be hung in large rooms. Small, detailed works are more effective in intimate surroundings.
Frequently, however, large works have fine details or subtle techniques that invite closer viewing. Such pictures should not be hung over a mantle or sofa where close inspection is impossible. In addition, a work of art should have adequate space around it so that distracting decorative elements in the room do not divert the viewer’s attention.
Beside esthetics, there are other considerations that should be addressed. Never hang a work of art where it will be exposed to direct sunlight. The harsh ultraviolet rays of the sun can cause the pigments to fade quickly. Heat can also damage a painting, particularly an oil painting, so avoid hanging them over radiators or heat registers.
Suppose, however, that you have a number of pictures and objets d’art that you want to hang simply to decorate a bare wall or to enliven a room. One way is to hangthem together in an arranged group. The individual pictures become elements in a larger, mosaic-like composition. Some planning is essential or else the result will be a cluttered and disorganized jumble. It’s a good idea to arrange the pictures on the floor first so you can harmonize the shapes and colors for the total composition.
There are a number of ways to create a balanced grouping. One way is to select a large picture as a focal point and group the smaller pictures around it. Another approach is to draw an imaginary rectangle on the wall and place the individual pictures within. The large rectangle becomes an invisible frame that the pictures align to.
In some areas where wall space is limited, you may choose to group the pictures in a vertical column. Here it’s best to align the pictures on their centers. This vertical column format can be used effectively to decorate the wall of a stairway. By arranging your pictures in successive columns, you can avoid a scattered or cluttered look.
Once you’ve decided where to hang the pictures, you’re faced with choosing the best method for securing them to the wall. Many older homes, those built before World War II, have picture molding in the main rooms. The molding is mounted along the wall about 12 inches from the ceiling.
The picture is suspended from a wire attached to a removable clip (available at framing shops and artist supply stores) that hooks onto the molding. Galleries use this method to hang pictures because it allows them to change exhibits easily.
A disadvantage is that the suspension wire is visible; it emphasizes the weight of the picture and often detracts from compositions that are light and airy. If you use this method, paint the wires and mounting clips so they are the same as the wall color.
It’s best to hang pictures so that the hooks and wires are not visible. Some people simply hammer a nail into the wall and hang the picture on that; but this usually results in damage to the wall and a less-than-secure support point. A better solution is to use picture hooks (available at hardware stores and artist supply store).
They are available in different sizes to support objects up to 50 pounds. The hook holds a nail at a fixed angle. This provides maximum support and minimizes wall damage.
Before driving the nail, place a piece of masking tape over the spot where the nail will enter. This will keep the plaster from cracking.
Except for very small pictures, use two hooks for each picture. They should be spaced about three-quarters of the frame width apart. For example, a frame that is 12 inches wide would have two hooks 9 inches apart. This double-hook technique will keep the picture from slipping into a crooked position.
When additional strength is required to secure a hook there are a variety of fasteners available. If you have hollow plasterboard walls, use an expansion-type toggle bolt. These have spring-loaded wings that open up behind the plasterboard when the bolt is tightened.
You must drill a hole in the wall to accept the folded wings. Thread the hook on the bolt, followed by the wings. Push the wings through the hole, then tighten the bolt to secure the hook to the wall.
For plaster or masonry walls, use an expansion anchor. The anchor, which may be made of plastic, fiber or lead, fits into a hole drilled into the wall. A screw (with the picture hook) inserted into the anchor causes it to expand and grip the wall firmly. Remember to use a masonry bit, and not a standard high-speed drill bit, to bore the hole. And wear proper eye protection.
