Americans spend a considerable amount of time inside the refrigerator. Not all the way in, maybe. But the hours we log with just our faces hovering at the open door add up.
Seems like most people would know everything about this appliance that anchors the kitchen, keeps most of our food fresh and is the joyful source of the last Popsicle on a hot August night. But it’s not always clear to many consumers how to store food in the refrigerator, how to keep it running properly and well-organized. (What is that thing someone wrapped in plastic and stuck in the back of the second shelf?)
With renewed respect for the box that has such an essential role in everyone’s lives, cook or not, and which loyally holds onto faded cartoons that stopped being funny 20 years ago, here’s a closer look at the refrigerator.
KEEPING THE RELATINSHIP RUNNING SMOOTHLY
This is the time of year Joel Adams really hustles. As the owner of Adams Refrigeration on the North Side, his phone rings constantly in the summer months with pleas from customers with conked-out coolers.
Most people don’t pay attention to the fridge until it’s floundering: not cooling enough, not cooling evenly or not cooling at all. But with an investment that ranges from $400 to $4,000 for this piece of equipment, it pays to treat it well.
“People leave the refrigerator open, especially kids, and just stand there for a time looking for something to snack on,” Adams says. “That lets humidity in and heats it up, so the motor has to (work harder). Or they turn the temperature dial way up (to highest cooling) instead of fixing the problem that’s keeping the refrigerator from cooling right. Or they let frost build up in the freezer and try to get rid of it with an ice pick, poking holes.”
It’s not the heat, it’s the stupidity.
Adams, who has repaired about 25,000 refrigerators (“More than I care to remember”) in his 18 years in the business, has some tips to keep the refrigerator running smoothly and food cold:
– Keep it clean. One of the biggest problems is dirt and debris that accumulates under or in the back of the refrigerator where the condenser coils lie. Pet hair is a big clogger, along with years of dust and miscellaneous grit that has blown down there. It is possible to keep the area clean by running the hose attachment of your vacuum cleaner near the coilsunplug the refrigerator to keep safe while workingbut consult your owner’s manual for best instructions before proceeding.
– Don’t overload. If there are too many containers jammed in there, the cold air doesn’t have a chance to circulate and chill everything. It also takes time for a refrigerator to regenerate the cold air that escapes every time you open the door.
– Keep it cool. Temperatures inside the unit can be adjusted to your own preference, says Richard Gorney, brand manager for Sears at Six Corners, but there are some basic guidelines. “The freezer temperature should be below 32 degrees; the refrigerator should average 40 degrees or colder,” he says. Stick to these temperatures for best food protection and storage. Don’t know the temperature? Get a hanging thermometer.
– No peeking. If the power goes out, the fridge interior should stay cool for five to six hours, says Jim Bisconti, owner of A-Besto Appliance Co. in Chicago. Don’t open the door to check on your food! Frozen foods can hold for up to two days in a full, free-standing freezer.
When the power returns: Packages that still have ice crystals can be re-frozen. Refrigerated items that are not as perishable, such as condiments, peanut butter, vegetables and hard cheeses, are usually safe if they have been at room temperature for only a few hours. Fresh meat and seafood, dairy products and leftover prepared foods should be discarded if they have been at room temperature for more than two hours.
– Watch the door. The door shelves get more room-temperature exposure than any other part of the fridge and should be used for condiments, soda and other products that aren’t refrigerated at the store. Egg shells are quite porous and easily absorb air, heat and odors. Eggs should be kept in their original cartons on a shelf in the back.
– Keep it smelling fresh. Yes, that open box of baking soda can tame some odors in the refrigerator, but for strong smells, it’s best to scrub down the shelves and walls. Check the owner’s manual or contact the manufacturer for instructions before you start cleaning with soap and water or commercial cleansers; different units may need different care.
And for heaven’s sake, throw out those mystery jars, cans and packages that you plan to use “someday.”
– Don’t freeze up. If ice gets thicker than 1/4 inch in the freezer it will insulate the cold plate that chills things. When ice does build up, don’t hack at it yourself; it’s time to defrost. Again, consult the manufacturer for defrosting instructions.
– Get up to date. The faithful old fridge you bought when the house was new may still be running, but new refrigerators use about a third as much energy as refrigerators from 20 years ago, says Len Swatkowski of the Association of Home Appliance Manufacturers. “That’s a lot of energy wasted.”
LOOKING GOOD
In recent years, the refrigerator has been getting as much of a makeover as an automobile. Jerome Caruso, with his company, Jerome Caruso Design in Lake Forest, has for 17 years been part of the evolution in kitchen aesthetics as a product designer. Here is his perspective on how refrigerators have changed, and what’s next:
– Refrigerators flush with the kitchen cabinetry. “All the units that used to be produced were 30 to 32 inches deep,” Caruso says. “When you put that alongside your cabinets it stuck out because counters were only 24 inches deep. The newer designs were shallower and a little wider to take up that volume that was lost.”
– Decorative refrigerator fronts. The rounded sides of pre- and post-war refrigerators evolved into square fronts that could be covered with decorative panels. During the 1960s and ’70s, this was sometimes taken to the extreme, with loud floral or plaid prints. Now the emphasis is on blending in, with front panels that match the kitchen cabinetry.
– Decentralizing the refrigerator. Caruso is a pioneer in breaking the appliance into small modular units that are installed as needed around the house. “Take, for example, two drawers that can be placed exactly where you want them, next to the sink, where they can be outfitted as crispers or freezers,” he says.
BERRY-PEACH TRIFLE
Preparation time: 40 minutes
Chilling time: 2 hours or overnight
Yield: 10 servings
Developed in the Tribune test kitchen.
4 cups (2 pints) mixed berries, such as raspberries, black- berries or blueberries
1 tablespoon sugar or more to taste
1 cup raspberry preserves
1 package (3 ounces)
ladyfingers, see note
2 tablespoons brandy or more to taste
4 cups chilled custard, homemade or from a custard mix, see note
4 ripe peaches, peeled, pitted, sliced, or 1 package (16 ounces) frozen, thawed, drained
1 1/2 cups whipping cream, whipped, slightly sweetened
Chocolate curls, optional
1. Combine berries and sugar in medium bowl; toss. Set aside at room temperature.
2. Spread 1/4 cup of the preserves on side edges of about 2/3 of the ladyfingers. Place on bottom and slightly up sides of 12-cup glass bowl, butting jam-spread edges together to seal. Spread 1/4 cup preserves over ladyfingers. Sprinkle 1 tablespoon of the brandy over ladyfingers in bowl.
3. Spoon berries over ladyfingers in bowl. Top with 2 cups of the custard. Repeat layers of ladyfingers, preserves and brandy. Place peach slices over ladyfingers; top with remaining 2 cups custard. Cover; refrigerate at least 2 hours or overnight. Pipe or spread whipped cream on top of trifle; garnish with chocolate, if desired.
Test kitchen note: One prepared poundcake can be substituted for ladyfingers. Cut in 1/4-inch slices. Cut each slice in half diagonally before lining the bowl. Bird’s and Jell-O each make custard mixes. Prepare 2 packets from a 5.29-ounce box of Bird’s according to package directions. Prepare 2 boxes (2.9 ounces each) of Jell-O American Custard according to package directions, using the egg recipe.
Nutrition information per serving:
Calories …….. … 435 Fat …………. 16 g Saturated fat .. 9 g
% calories from fat .. 31 Cholesterol … 130 mg Sodium …… 305 mg
Carbohydrates …… 69 g Protein ………. 8 g Fiber ………. 4 g
OATMEAL REFRIGERATOR COOKIES
Preparation time 20 minutes
Chilling time 5 hours
Cooking time 8-10 minutes
Yield 3 dozen cookies
Adapted from “The Wooden Spoon Cookie Book,” by Marilyn M. Moore. You may want to make a double batch to keep on hand or freeze.
1/2 cup (1 stick) butter, softened
1/2 cup each sugar, packed light brown sugar
1 large egg
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 cup all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon each salt, baking soda
1 1/2 cups old-fashioned rolled oats
1. Beat butter and sugars together in bowl of electric mixer until creamy. Add egg and vanilla; beat until combined. Beat in flour, salt and baking soda until blended. Add oats; beat until just incorporated. Cover bowl; chill until firm enough to shape, 30 to 60 minutes.
2. Divide dough in half. Shape each half into 1 1/2- by 4 1/2-inch rectangular logs. Wrap each in wax paper. Refrigerate until firm, at least 4 hours, or for as long as 3 days.
3. Heat oven to 375 degrees. Slice each log into 18 slices. Bake on ungreased baking sheets until golden brown, 8 to 10 minutes. Transfer to wire rack to cool.
Nutrition information per cookie
Calories …………. 70 Fat ……….. 2.9 g Saturated fat .. 1.7 g
% calories from fat .. 36 Cholesterol … 13 mg Sodium ……… 80 mg
Carbohydrates …… 11 g Protein ……… 1 g Fiber ………. 0.5 g
A COMPRESSED HISTORY OF REFRIGERATION
Feel free to date yourself by calling the refrigerator an “icebox.” That’s what it was before electricity plugged everyone into year-round frigid-air. When ice was scarce, most food was preserved by smoking, salting or potting with lard or other fat. Meat, fish, produce and dairy products were stored in a pantry “built to be as cool as possible, preferably on the north side of the house,” Christina Hardyment writes in “Home Comfort: A History of Domestic Arrangements.”
4th century. During his campaigns of conquest, Alexander the Great has conical pits filled with ice and food and covered with straw or reeds to preserveprovisions.
1884. French monk and physics teacher Abbe Marcel Audriffren develops a prototype for the first airtight refrigeration system.
Early 1900s. Even at the turn of this century, many householders still fill theiriceboxes with ice blocks hauled door-to-door on the back of a wagon. Meat and produce are purchased frequently and in small quantities. In 1914, the first electric refrigerator is introduced for commercial use.
1920s. It takes inventor Clarence Birdseye until 1929 to master the quick-freezing of vegetables. Birdseye’s patents allow all sorts of fresh foods to be sold from low-temperature display cases in the 1930s, in time to meet the growing sales of home refrigerators. Domestic refrigerators begin to enter the market.
1930s. General Electric introduces refrigerators with rounded corners, soon a popular design trend around the country.
1940s. Shortage of tinplate for canned foodgives a huge boost in sales to frozen vegetables during World War II. Separate compartments and doors for freezer and refrigerator are introduced. Postwar prosperity brings more spacious appliances, along with the growth of supermarkets, whereconsumers shop weekly for bulk purchases and, eventually, for convenient frozen meals.
1950s. Frost-free refrigerators and freezers are introduced. Also,the first automatic icemakers.
1960s. In-door ice-water dispensers and decorative fronts appear onrefrigerators.
1970s. Refrigerators are in 99.8 percent of the nation’s homes.
1980s. Computers control temperatures and automatic defrosting.
1990s. An estimated 97 million refrigerators are in American homes, more than the number of dishwashers and gas range cook tops combined. Only the number of home microwave ovens comes close. Guess we need something to heat up that leftover Chinese food from the fridge.
Source: Association of Home Appliance Manufacturers; American Frozen food institute; General Electric; Amana Appliances.
