“Do you take children?” I asked the hotel’s flawlessly groomed clerk.
She smiled politely, then sympathetically, as the wails of my Cheerio-hurling 14-month-old filled the regal lobby.
“We even take small animals,” she replied.
One and the same, in my book.
After a car trip from the Bay Area up through Oregon, Washington and the San Juan Islands, my husband and I had landed in one of the world’s most beautiful cities, Victoria, British Columbia. And now we were going to book the world’s most demanding child into its finest hotel, the Empress.
It was essential, you see, that we stay there. Our only vacation alone together since our baby’s birth, my husband and I needed more than Motel 6 this time, and the alternative — bed-and-breakfast inns — would have none of us.
So it was the Empress or bust. And high tea in the Butchart Gardens’ conservatory. And tours of the stately Parliament buildings and the Royal British Columbia Museum. We were so determined, we went downtown for dinner.
But in our 24-hour expedition, we had fun. And the baby got to test her lung capacity at every site, startling herself silent at last with a holler right up into the Parliament’s gilt dome. A last hurrah, indeed.
But enough about us. Let’s talk about the city.
Victoria, B.C., for newcomers, is a blast backward about 150 years to quaint, well-mannered England. Only this Canadian gem is a quick hop, skip and a jump from Seattle.
Located on the southern tip of Vancouver Island, the Victoria area offers an escape to the Northwest’s crisp air, endless forests and salmon-filled blue waters. A good choice is to rent a car in Seattle and take the ferry to Victoria. The scenery is spectacular — a study in shades of blue — and you will understand why so many Californians jumped ship and moved north.
Yet Victoria is urban and sophisticated, mixing its Old World charm with modern life. A thriving city of 75,500, its downtown is punctuated by sleek office towers with cozy ground-floor shops where you can find imported linens, toys or a foamy pint. And nearly all of the city’s attractions are within stroller distance — with a view of the harbor, no less.
But our Victoria foray began at the Butchart Gardens, just north of the city. A landscape of international fame, the 50-acre country estate has been attracting people since Mrs. Butchart started planting 94 years ago. Perhaps the best-known feature of the garden is the former rock quarry, now a lush, woodsy lake with a “dancing” fountain and light show.
Butchart Gardens is open year-round, and was colorful and inspiring even in fall. And don’t miss afternoon tea in the estate’s beautiful conservatory, a sumptuous “snack” of delicate sandwiches, fruit and confections and with an enthralling view out leaded-glass windows. Not one to miss out on the fun, our daughter woke early from her nap just as tea arrived, then demanded a walking tour of the premises. Easily the best meal I’ve eaten in rotating stages.
Afterward, we hit the trails, and the baby terrorized every visitor and blossom (except the big-as-your-head hydrangea blooms); she took special delight in the birds and quarry fountain. Older children will like navigating the park’s miles of meandering paths, stairways and bridges. (Make sure they rub the bronze boar’s snout before they leave.)
Onward to Victoria. We took side roads down along the waterfront, hoping to come across a bed-and-breakfast inn. But the lovely views weren’t enough for the baby, and by the time we gave up and drove downtown, she was in meltdown. That’s where, cranky and covered in spit-up, we landed at the Empress.
Picture the most stately hotel you’ve ever seen and you’ve got a pale version of the Empress. The seven-story, ivy-laced brick hotel presides over the Inner Harbour, her beautiful form reflected in the water. We felt unworthy, but the staff welcomed us nonetheless and even offered a guided peek at their cheaper — ahem, less expensive — rooms. We bit.
Ten minutes and about $100 U.S. later, we were four floors up in heaven (although heaven’s view was mostly of the neighboring convention hall’s roof). The lavish room featured a king-size bed, table and chairs, writing desk, TV/bar armoire and a massive walk-in closet (yes, the thought of putting the crib in it did cross our minds). Better still was the bathroom, a shrine of marble, brass, delicate wallpaper and white eyelet lace. We could only imagine what the top-end $340 (Canadian dollars, off-season) room was like.
Bathed, changed and happier an hour later, we fired up the stroller for a walk downstairs, then out for dinner. The Empress’ majestic interiors hold not one but two restaurants, plus a lounge and the lobby where afternoon tea is served with harp music to a full house of better-heeled folks. Designer clothing shops, art galleries, a ballroom, the pool and a health club are among the other amenities spread through the Empress’ lower levels.
Outside, the short walk uptown starts along the boat-lined harbor on Government Street, where horse-drawn carriages and old-fashioned double-decker buses mosey under old-fashioned street lamps and their hanging flower baskets.
Typical of Canada (let’s go ahead and make some generalizations), the city streets are spotless, and even the touristy T-shirt/postcard shops are subdued. Just as the travel brochure promises, Victoria’s 19th Century-style shop windows are filled with fine bone china, colorful tartans and handmade chocolates. The downtown appears to enjoy tourism’s benefits and is alive at night with shoppers and strollers.
Our choice for dinner was a small Thai restaurant on a side street. We ordered, but it was not meant to be, as you-know-who fussed again. This turned out fine, however, and we enjoyed an excellent takeout feast back in our lovely room at the Empress.
The next morning’s itinerary started with breakfast at a downtown coffee shop, then a walk back to the harbor to see the Parliament buildings and Royal British Columbia Museum, both adjacent to the Empress.
As B.C.’s capital, Victoria is home to the stately granite Parliament complex. Worth at least a quick peek inside, the domed, castlelike building tells of the city’s British colonial heritage. Bottom line: wonderful architectural details (check out the doorknobs) and pictures of Princess Diana on visits. There are tours if you’re a history/monarchy buff.
Don’t miss the Parliament at night, however. That’s when the facade really shines, quite literally, with thousands of tiny white lights. With the neighboring Empress outlined in similar fashion and mirrored on the harbor, the scene is must-viewing.
Back across the street — after a short visit with a horse snacking between carriage rides — is the Royal British Columbia Museum, a natural history museum with an interesting whale exhibit. Roomy and full of vivid displays, it captivated us for several hours.
By now it was time to get on the ferry back to Washington, anyway. You’ll usually need to make reservations for the ferry; don’t leave this important detail to chance.
The float out of town through the winding harbors offers another chance to see the city. The roomy ferries are usually a delight for children, and there are decent snack bars to appease them after they’ve toured all the decks. As for adults, the ride can be a lovely, quiet time to sip a glass of wine and watch the sunset across the sound.
Or you can travel with us.
IF YOU GO
LODGING
The Empress, 721 Government St., Victoria, B.C., V8W 1W5; 250-384-8111. Rooms are $140 to $340 Canadian (about $98 to $239 U.S. based on current exchange rate) off-season (November through April); $235 to $505 ($165 to $355 U.S.) the rest of the year.
SEEING THE SIGHTS
The Butchart Gardens, Box 4010, Victoria, B.C., Canada, V8X 3X4; 250-652-4422.
Parliament buildings, on Belleville Street (at Government), Victoria.
Royal British Columbia Museum, 675 Belleville St.; 250-387-3701. Open daily from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.
Beacon Hill Children’s Farm, Circle Drive, Beacon Hill Park, Victoria; 250-381-2532.
Maritime Museum of British Columbia, 28 Bastion Square, Victoria (ghosts, shipwrecks, galleries); 250-385-4222.
Pacific Undersea Gardens, 490 Belleville St., Victoria; 250-382-5717.
Royal London Wax Museum, 470 Belleville St., Victoria; 250-388-4461.
Sidney Marine Mammal Historical Museum, 9801 Seaport Place, Sidney; 250-656-1322.
Victoria Butterfly Gardens, Brentwood Bay; 250-652-3822.
INFORMATION
Greater Victoria Visitors and Convention Bureau, 812 Wharf St., Victoria, B.C., Canada, V8W 1TS; 250-953-2033. They have information on the ferry companies (vary by port), tours, accommodations and a wide array of outdoor recreation.
