Even die-hard junkers can feel tres intimidated when exploring the flea markets of Paris. Who could blame the uninitiated, given the various roadblocks? First, the language barrier. Will you know how to bargain or inquire without knowing a lick of French?
Then there’s the “off-the-beaten-tourist-trail” locale? Will you wind up in Switzerland?
And last, the foreign currency. Did monsieur say that’s 10 dollars on the French blue enamelware bucket or 10,000 dollars?
Well, have no flea-fear, friends. It’s time to shake off those “junco jitters” because we’ve discovered a trip to Paris is nothing without a Saturday morning jaunt to the friendly Marche de la Porte de Vanves on the southern outskirts of the city. And even though we are novices at “parlez vous-ing” French, you can trust us as your guides as we are self-proclaimed bargaining pros and 10-year veterans of the flea-market front.
We recommend an early rise on Saturday because, although the Vanves market declares 8 a.m.-till-noon hours both weekend days, the best items are up for grabs when the market opens Saturday. So arrive early as it gets crowded quickly.
The day-before preparation includes purchasing a clear pencil case at a Monoprix store (the French equivalent to Walgreen’s) that will double as a wallet, enabling you to see your unfamiliar currency clearly and quickly when you discover treasure on the sidewalks of Vanves. Speaking of currency, be sure to stash away lots of 10 franc coins (equivalent to about $1.80) so you will have exact change; think of it as bringing singles.
The morning-of preparation requires the purchase of a round-trip Metro ticket (16 francs) and a glance at the easy-to-comprehend Metro map inside the station. Find the Porte de Vanves stop (direction Chatillon-Montrouge, 13, on the blue line) and plot your travel route. It will be a relatively quick trip; you can expect, for example, an approximate 20-minute ride from the St. Germain area. Along the way, practice saying your French numbers–they will be your best bargaining tool. We recommend a little gem called “Speedy French,” a pocket-size French phrase book (Baja Books, $6).
Once you arrive, look for Avenue Georges-Lafenestre and Avenue Marc-Sangnier, just around the corner from the Metro station exit. It is there, right along the sidewalk, that your junking excursion will begin. On your way, grab a breakfast treat from the neighborhood patisserie or snap up our favorite delicacy, the roasted chestnuts from a curbside vender (10 francs a bag).
You’ll find dealers’ wares on tabletops and on the street stretching an approximate mile through this residential neighborhood (imagine a small-scale, French Kane County Flea Market in the middle of low-rise apartments). The mood here is one of a well-organized block party; there are lots of locals selling and shopping.
They are tight for space at Vanves and the sidewalk gets packed, so mind your bulging backpack before you spin around near a vendor’s porcelain cake-plate collection. At a leisurely pace, your journey will take approximately two to three hours.
When in Paris . . .
The best French flea finds? We love Parisian button cards, which can be framed or tied to packages as gift cards. Be on the lookout for enamel house numbers, kitchen items and French signs that are much less expensive when discovered in their homeland. Treat yourself to French milliner flowers, which can be scooped up at bargain prices and decoratively pinned to furniture a la Shabby Chic.
We never leave the flea without an old French novel or two and have been known to purchase extra luggage in order to accommodate our Parisian garden book discoveries. Sheet music finds and other decorative papers can make one-of-a-kind gift wrap, and treasured French fabrics in faded florals and monogrammed linens can transport your American breakfast table right to Provence.
We are smitten completely with items that have French writing or Parisian hallmarks–dishes, silver and glassware are our favorite kind of souvenir when they’re marked “Paris” or “France.” Although we usually stick to picks that are overhead compartment-friendly for air travel, it is possible to arrange for shipping on larger items. Ask dealers if they have a shipping contact, or write or phone the customs office beforehand for information at: Service des Commandes, 24 Blvd de l’Hopital, P.O. Box 438, Paris, France 75005.
Negotiating a deal
Want a better price? When the dealer serves up trente franc (30 francs and a common asking price on “smalls,” those small items such as silverware, linens and porcelain fixtures), offer vingt franc (20 francs). You’ll either get a shake of the head or you’ll see the dealer begin searching for a bag (the universal symbol for “You’ve got a deal”).
Another negotiating ploy to seal the deal at a lower price is to gush over the treasure in question, then walk away after hearing the price. More often than not, the dealer will shout out a lower price, hoping for a sale.
If your Vanves visit proves positive, clank your way back to the Metro with your finds in tow and start dreaming about tomorrow’s trip to Clignancourt.
THERE’S MORE AT CLIGNANCOURT
Vanves still is our favorite French flea but when we’re in the mood for more we head to the Clignancourt (KLEEN-en-core) market, sometimes referred to as Marche aux Puces de St-Ouen, on the northern outskirts of Paris. It is filled with large antiques that may require a tour guide to negotiate (or get an item’s history) and to make arrangements for a container to ship your goods home. Many American antiques stores stock up on goods here. Here are some things you will need to know.
Metro stop: Porte de Clignancourt. Don’t be discouraged by the sight of new merchandise stalls upon leaving the Metro (filled with teens buying hip clothing, beads and shoes) or the crowd (watch your bag). The best finds lie about a 10-minute walk away, down Marche Malik. (Have a sugary crepe as you wander.)
French flavor: Tres serious at most antiques shops here–you’ll find paintings, farm tables, armoires and large furnishings. There are lovely fabrics and beads at a price and good bargains to be found on the curbs in between the more permanent stalls.
When: From 7 a.m. to 6 p.m. Saturday, Sunday and Monday–but Monday has very few curbside vendors.
