The setting is a back-yard patio, the terrace of a townhouse or a picnic ground overlooking the lake. Very different sites, yet what they all have in common–in addition to hungry people–is a glowing grill. Americans now light up more than 1 billion times a year, according to industry statistics. They are most likely to use their grills to cook steak, hamburger, chicken or ribs. But back in the pack, coming on strong, is sausage. If we define it as ground and seasoned meat stuffed into a casing, and do not count hot dogs, sausage ranks 12th among food grilled most frequently by “average Americans.” Two strong trends suggest sausages are likely to move up on the list.
The first is the hot romance between consumers and boldly flavored foods, especially those with an ethnic accent. Spice consumption has been increasing in this country, and sausage is a product in which seasoning is essential and easy to detect. It seems no herb or spice is safe from sausagemakers hungry to formulate a new product. Examples from the recent Food Marketing Institute show here, for example: teriyaki- and fajita-flavored beef sausages from the Aidells Sausage Co. and salmon sausages flavored with garlic, basil and tomato and in a “hot Italian” formulation from Aquacuisine.
The second trend is an ongoing concern about diet and health. Current growth is centered in flavored dinner sausages made from poultry or soy, not the traditional breakfast sausage made with pork. At the marketing show, new products on display included meatless Boca Italian sausages made with soy protein. Whether poultry or soy, most of these products are pre-cooked, which lessens concern about bacterial contamination and also shortens preparation.
Grill-cooked sausage is a universal food and provides the key ingredient for what company founder Bruce Aidells likes to call “the lazy man’s” ethnic dinner.
“You don’t need to go to an ethnic market or prepare a complicated casserole,” he says. “Instead, all you do is grill or pan-fry sausages with Southwestern or Thai or Greek seasonings and serve them with pasta or potatoes and a salad. It takes 15 minutes.”
Aidells’ company produces about 30 sausage blends, but sales are concentrated in five products–apple, sun-dried tomato, artichoke and habanero–all made with chicken–plus an all-pork andouille (a Cajun-style sausage with hot red pepper). His personal preference for poultry sausage is a combination of turkey, which has flavor but tends to be dry, and chicken, which is moist but “blah.”
Spicy medleys
“My aim is intense flavor,” Aidells says. “I think ‘zing.’ But I also look for flavor combinations that come from established culinary traditions, such as coriander and cumin or anise or fennel in North African sausages. When I combined artichoke and sun-dried tomatoes and poultry, I knew it would work as a topping for pasta. But not everything is aggressively spiced. A combination like chicken and apple appeals to old folks and kids.”
“There’s been a big change,” says Jerry Lekan, whose Paulina Market has long been considered a Chicago shrine to traditional German sausage. “Consumer taste has gone from mild to wild. They want more and more flavor, more oomph, more black and red pepper, more garlic. And there has been a definite decline in very traditional items like blood sausage and even sliced sausages such as bologna. We introduced andouille sausage five years ago. Now it outsells Polish.”
Lekan’s successful innovations include a gyros (spicy lamb sausage stuffed into bratwurst casing) and “turduckin” (ground turkey, duck and chicken with cornmeal).
In addition to their taste appeal, he believes dinner sausages are gaining popularity because they are easy to handle, simple to prepare and quick to cook.
“Convenience is a big factor,” he says, especially in the summer grill season, when he witnesses “a steep increase” in sausage sales.
Hans Liebl, whose Chicago-made Hans’ All Natural sausages now sell in 46 states, explains his company’s growth: “We make a better product than poultry sausagemakers used to,” he says. “We’ve learned a lot. Now mainstream grocery stores want them.”
His sausages contain “no nitrates, no preservatives, no fillers, no MSG, no sugar,” he says. “You can feel good about them and you will feel good after you eat them.” He gives his products evocative place names such as Gilroy (with roasted garlic), Bermuda (green onions) and Sonoma (dried tomatoes).
Opportunity for chefs
Restaurant chefs also display considerable enthusiasm for sausage. Christopher Koetke, chef-instructor at the Culinary School of Kendall College in Evanston, says a four-day elective course in sausagemaking he teaches is “wildly popular.”
“Seasoning is the key in making great sausage, and chefs love to manipulate seasoning,” he says. “But it’s a skill to develop for other reasons too. Sausage fits into regional menus beautifully and it’s extremely versatile.”
The chef praises the locally produced Sausages By Amy line as “a great job of spotlighting what’s hip.” (Among Amy’s flavors: chicken with sun-dried tomato, basil and pine nuts; turkey and duck with cranberry and Cognac, Mediterranean chicken with olive oil, kalamata olives and Spanish sherry.) Koetke has reservations about poultry sausage because often “it lacks moisture, flavor and mouth feel.”
Aidells acknowledges that his products and other lower-fat sausages do not respond well to overcooking.
“They will dry out if left on the grill after they are brown and heated through,” he says. “Also, because there is so little of it, you want to keep the fat inside the sausage. So don’t pierce the casing. Since most of them are smoked or pre-cooked, reaching an internal temperature of 135 to 140 degrees is sufficient.” However, to be even safer from possible food bacteria, the U. S. Department of Agriculture directs home cooks to reheat cooked poultry sausage to 165 degrees. Measure temperature by inserting an instant-read thermometer about 2 inches into the end of a sausage.
Aidells recommends poaching fresh sausages before grilling them. Fresh or smoked, he cooks sausages by the indirect method (with coals moved to the sides, not directly underneath the sausages) with medium heat and, aside from frequently turning the sausages so they brown evenly, keeps the grill covered to minimize flair ups.
But once you heed this advice, he continues, you can enjoy sausages of almost infinite variety that are “quick and easy to cook and come in novel flavors that will light up your taste buds.”
Creative combinations
A tasting in the Tribune’s test kitchen of 11 different pre-cooked poultry sausages showed very acceptable palatability. The sausages also possessed creative ingredient combinations and distinctive seasoning.
Oversalting, common in pork sausages, was not a problem. However, some casings were found to be tough, a habanero chili sausage was voted too fiery and several seasoning combinations were found to be sweeter than expected. Sausages that most pleased the tasters were Amy’s Szechwan Chicken, Hans’ All Natural Gilroy, Gerhards’ Chicken Sausage with Fresh Herbs and Aidells’ Chicken and Apple. Mint, more than meat, caught the attention of tasters in the lone meat entry, Chiappetti lamb sausage.
Tasters discovered a distinct family resemblance among sausages of one brand or another. Amy’s, for instance, are thinner and darker than other brands. Hans’ products have a softer texture and often contain a profusion of coarsely chopped herbs. Aidells’ efforts, rich-tasting and meaty, offer the most complex flavor combinations.
— W.R
Grilling questions?
For those with questions about grill cooking, the 8-year-old Weber Grill-Line, which received more than 70,000 calls last year, is back in business. The Grill-Line telephone is 800-474-55688. The e-mail address is grillout@weber.com.
Other timely sources are the recently published “Grilling and Barbecue,” by the editors of Cook’s Illustrated (Boston Common Press, $29.95), “Bruce Aidells’ Complete Sausage Book” (Ten Speed Press, $21.95) and “Born to Grill,” by Cheryl Alters Jamison and Bill Jamison (Harvard Common Press, $15.95).
— W.R.
Grilling by the numbers
There are so many statistics available on the subject of grill cooking that it might as well be a sport. Come to think of it, for many males grill cooking is a sport.
GrillWatch, a survey published annually by Weber-Stephen, the Palatine-based producer of grill equipment, says 30 percent of those with grills use them two or more times a week and predicts that Americans will cook outdoors more than 1 billion times this summer. (The Barbecue Industry Association adds that there is a barbecue grill in 75 percent of American homes.)
Here is more grill lore from “Grilling and Barbecuing” and the Barbecue Industry Association:
– Manufacturers shipped 15.4 million grills in the reporting year that ended last August. There was increased interest in luxury portable grills that cost $300 to $500, high-temperature infrared grills and electric grills for apartment house terraces, as well as wood chunks and wood chips.
– About 61 percent of American grill owners have a gas model, while 51 percent have a charcoal grill. (Some people own both types.)
– In tests, Cook’s Illustrated magazine editors decided that gas grills are convenient and consistent but charcoal burns hotter and therefore does a better job of browning and searing. Charcoal also provides better flavor due to its fragrant smoke. They recommend lump hardwood charcoal, sometimes call charwood, over briquettes for grilling because the lumps burn hot and fast.
– In buying a gas or charcoal grill, the editors say, “you get what you pay for.” They are not at all keen on models priced at less than $200 and don’t really get excited until the price hits $400. They suggest checking for a gas gauge, a drainage system for fat and the ability to maintain low temperatures. A gas grill should have at least two burners if you plan to do indirect cooking.
– The June Consumers Report magazine rated gas grills, also concluding that if you spend more, “you get more features, more style, better materials and more cooking versatility.” Top-rated were the Weber Summit 450 ($2,325) and the Broilmaster P3 ($840), but the magazine noted their best-buys were the Weber Genesis Silver-B ($450), the Weber Genesis Silver-A ($350) and the less-sturdy Sunbeam HG7501EPB ($200).
— W.R.
Wild rice and pecan salad with grilled sausage
Preparation time: 20 minutes
Cooking time: 45 minutes
Yield: 4 servings
This recipe is delicious with venison sausage or any kind of duck sausage. Adapted from “Bruce Aidells’ Complete Sausage Book.”
3 cups water
1 cup raw wild rice, rinsed
1/2 teaspoon salt plus more to taste
1/2 cup shelled pecans
1 tablespoon peanut oil
1 pound venison or duck sausage
2 green onions, thinly sliced
1 cup chopped Italian flat-leaf parsley
2 tablespoons sherry wine vinegar or red wine vinegar
1/4 cup walnut oil
Freshly ground pepper
1. Heat water to boil in medium saucepan. Add rice and 1/2 teaspoon of the salt. Return water to boil; reduce heat. Cover; simmer until rice is tender, about 40 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, heat oil in medium skillet. Add pecans; cook over medium-low heat, shaking pan constantly, just until nuts are browned and develop nutty aroma, about 5 minutes. Transfer to large bowl; set aside.
3. Heat grill to medium. Cook sausages, covered, turning sausages frequently, until cooked through, about 12 minutes. Transfer to cutting board. Slice warm sausages on angle; set aside.
4. Add rice, green onions, parsley, vinegar and walnut oil to pecans in bowl. Toss well to combine. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Mound rice salad on platter. Arrange sausages over rice.
Nutrition information per serving:
750 calories, 70% calories from fat, 60 g fat, 16 g saturated fat, 65 mg cholesterol, 1,420 mg sodium, 35 g carbohydrate, 21 g protein, 4.3 g fiber
Skewered andouille and shrimp with Creole mustard sauce
Preparation time: 40 minutes
Cooking time: 5 minutes
Yield: 6 servings
For best results skewer the shrimp lengthwise and the sausage crosswise through the casing. Adapted from “Bruce Aidells’ Complete Sausage Book.”
Creole mustard butter:
1 stick (1/2 cup) unsalted butter
5 cloves garlic, minced
3 tablespoons Creole or other spicy mustard
2 1/2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 1/2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce
1 teaspoon hot red pepper sauce
Salt, freshly ground black pepper
Skewers:
2 each, cut into 1-inch chunks: red bell pepper, green bell pepper, red onion
1 pound andouille sausage, cut into 1/2-inch rounds
1 pound large shrimp, peeled, deveined, tails left on
1. For mustard butter, melt butter over low heat. Add garlic; cook 1 minute. Whisk in mustard, lemon juice, Worcestershire and red pepper sauce. Add salt and pepper to taste; set aside. (Store up to 1 week in refrigerator or 2 months in freezer.) Soak 24 six-inch bamboo skewers in water 30 minutes. Heat grill or broiler to high.
2. Thread skewers alternately with pieces of vegetables, sausage and shrimp. Brush each skewer generously with mustard butter. Grill until shrimp is pink and sausage is lightly browned, about 2-3 minutes on each side. Serve with remaining mustard butter on side.
Nutrition information per serving:
410 calories, 66% calories from fat, 30 g fat, 20 g saturated fat, 190 mg cholesterol, 920 mg sodium, 12 g carbohydrate, 26 g protein, 2.3 g fiber
Brewed brat sandwiches with caraway kraut
Preparation time: 20 minutes
Cooking time: 35 minutes
Yield: 8 servings
Adapted from “Born to Grill,” by Cheryl Alters Jamison and Bill Jamison.
Brat marinade:
2 bottles (12 ounces each) beer
1 large onion, chopped
6 tablespoons brown mustard
1 teaspoon each: caraway seeds, ground coriander
12 uncooked bratwursts, about 5 ounces each
Caraway kraut:
2 tablespoons butter
1 small onion, chopped
2 teaspoons each: caraway seeds, brown mustard
2 cups drained sauerkraut
Freshly ground pepper
Sandwiches:
8 kaiser rolls or 16 large slices of rye bread
Brown mustard
8 thin slices cheese, such as Swiss, provolone, Gouda or Gruyere
1 cup chopped dill pickles
1. For marinade, combine beer, onion, mustard, caraway seeds and coriander in a large saucepan. Heat to boil; reduce heat, simmer 5 minutes. Add bratwursts; simmer, covered, 15 minutes. Remove from heat, leave brats in liquid..
2. Heat grill to high. For kraut, melt butter in medium saucepan over medium heat. Stir in onion and caraway seeds; cook until onion turns translucent, about 3 minutes. Stir in mustard, sauerkraut and pepper to taste. Reduce heat to low; cover, keep warm.
3. Drain brats; discard marinade. Halve brats lengthwise; cut halves in half crosswise. Grill brat pieces uncovered until browned but still juicy, about 2 minutes per side. Toast rolls, cut side down, on edge of grill, about 30 seconds.
4. To assemble sandwiches, coat both sides of each toasted roll with mustard. On bottom roll, add slice of cheese, 6 brat pieces and large dollop kraut; sprinkle dill pickle on top. Close with top roll; push roll down to mingle juices and ingredients. Repeat with remaining ingredients.
Nutrition information per serving:
590 calories, 63% calories from fat, 41 g fat, 16 g saturated fat, 95 mg cholesterol, 1,630 mg sodium, 30 g carbohydrate, 25 g protein, 1.7 g fiber
Grilled sausage burrito with tomatoes, peppers and black beans
Preparation time: 40 minutes
Cooking time: 30 minutes
Yield: 6 servings
This spicy burrito can be made with any type of sausage, including regular chorizo or andouille. It was developed in the Tribune test kitchen. Also, to save time, you can use your favorite salsa to replace the ingredients used in Step 1.
5 plum tomatoes, seeded, chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 jalapeno pepper, seeded, minced
2 tablespoons each: chopped white onion, chopped cilantro
1 tablespoon fresh lime juice
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 each: red bell pepper, yellow bell pepper
6 chicken chorizo sausages
1 can (15 ounces) black beans, drained
1/4 head iceberg lettuce, thinly sliced
Guacamole, sour cream, optional
6 12-inch flour tortillas
1. Combine tomatoes, garlic, jalapeno, onion, cilantro, lime juice and salt in small bowl; set aside. (Can refrigerate up to 3 days.)
2. Oil grill grate. Heat grill to high. Place whole peppers on grill. Cook, turning occasionally, until charred on all sides, about 15 minutes. Transfer peppers to bowl; cover with plastic wrap. (Or, place in paper or plastic bag; close bag.) Remove skins of pepper when cool enough to handle. Discard stem and seeds. Chop. Place in medium bowl. Stir in beans and the reserved tomato salsa; set aside.
3. Cook sausages on grill until nicely browned on all sides, about 4 minutes. Move sausages to medium heat section of grill. Cook, covered, turning once, until cooked through, about 14 minutes. Remove to cutting board. Cut sausages into 1/2-inch rounds. Add sausages to bean mixture. Place tortillas on grill to warm, about 20 seconds. Spoon sausage filling on each tortilla. Sprinkle lettuce on top. Layer with guacamole and sour cream as desired. Roll up, folding in both ends. Serve with guacamole and sour cream.
Nutrition information per serving:
390 calories, 30% calories from fat, 13 g fat, 3 g saturated fat, 45 mg cholesterol, 1,180 mg sodium, 49 g carbohydrate, 20 g protein, 8 g fiber
