Not the least reason to join the parade of vacationers’ autos driving from Chicago to Michigan this summer is to taste the state’s growing selection of wine. A visit to several of the northern wineries earlier this year and a recent tasting of current releases offered evidence that Michigan wines and wineries should be taken seriously.
So should wine tourism. The state’s winery population has reached 32, with nine grouped in the southwest corner of the state and 11 more north of Traverse City on or near the Old Mission and Leelanau peninsulas. The spirit of “agritourism” has brought charming tasting rooms and, at some wineries, the possibility of overnight accommodations.
Such local action is these wineries’ strength, and they are capitalizing on it. Even though they offer more and more distinctive, European-style wines, few Chicago stores carry them and few Chicagoans are clamoring for them.
Todd Hess, wine buyer for Sam’s Wines & Spirits, says he would carry some Michigan wine if it was distributed here, “but we do get along without it very well and there’s no demand locally. There’s just too much competition and too many wines from elsewhere that are better and better known.”
Don’t feel too sorry for the Michigan growers. The mood was upbeat at a state winery conference in February. Tasting room visits and bottle sales were up last year, they reported, and although Chicago wine lovers may not demand Michigan wines at home, they drink their fill while on vacation in the state.
Tourism should receive a further boost with the opening of three new cellars relatively close to Chicago. Domaine Berrien Cellars is in Berrien Springs; Contessa Wine Cellars and Karma Vista Vineyards are in Coloma.
Grape-loving locations
The wineries near Lake Michigan benefit from sand and gravel loam soils and breezes off the lake that combat frost.
Grapes have been grown in Michigan since the mid-1800s, but never in such variety and profusion. There are more than 50 varieties of wine grapes, from well-known European varieties such as pinot noir and Johannisberg riesling (vinified both dry and sweet) and French-American hybrids led by vignoles, seyval blanc and the gewurztraminer-like traminette (all white) and red chambourcin.
In addition, the state produces fruit wines, ice wine and wine-based brandy. Native grapes, such as the Concord and Niagara, are more likely to turn up as jams and juices than in a wine bottle. Michigan wines tend to have more acid and less alcohol than wines from California.
At Ciccone Vineyard and Winery in Sutton’s Bay, Tony Ciccone (father of Madonna), says he is expecting to harvest his first pinot blanc in the fall and talks of expanding his plantings of dolcetto. The folksy tasting room that opened at the end of 2000 gets 75 percent of its business with local customers, he says with pleasure.
Nearby, at Willow Vineyard, which offers beautiful hillside views over the peninsula, co-owner John Crampton says he has cut back production, but not for lack of demand.
“We dropped to about 500 cases,” he said. “Now we are the smallest vineyard and winery in the state and things are less hectic. I like that.”
Jean Joho, chef-owner of Everest and Brasserie Jo in Chicago, has a weekend home within walking distance of two Michigan wineries. “The wineries are trying very hard, but they are producing too many types of grapes,” he said. “To score a breakthrough, they alsoneed to produce wines that match contemporary cooking.”
To help achieve a symbiosis between Michigan wine and food and spotlight Michigan winemakers and chefs, planning is under way for a culinary complex in Traverse City plus an annual “festival of the senses.”
The Michigan Grape & Wine Industry Council has published a useful magazine and map titled “Michigan Wine Country.” For copies or other information, contact the Council at 800-292-3939 or www.michiganwines.com.
Tasting notes
Here are my reactions to several wines from the Lake Michigan Shore appellation, the vineyard area closest to Chicago. For availability and hours of operation call the winery tasting rooms.
– Domaine Berrien Cellars, Berrien Springs, 616-473-9463:
1999 Cabernet/Merlot. $18. Seductive cherry and violet aromas and hints of vanilla. Round and mature with a long finish.
2001 Wolf’s Prairie Red (not aged in oak). $9.50. A light and bright wine with a lovely cherry-berry aroma and taste. Pair with foods that might call for Cotes du Rhone.
2001 Steelhead White. $10.50. Blending seyval blanc, chardonnay and pinot gris produces a crisp, very clear wine with the scent of apple, a touch of banana and some citrus. Match it with salmon or walleye.
– Heart of the Vineyard Winery and Distillery, Baroda, 800-716-9463:
Cabernet Franc, non-vintage. $21.95. Rich color and bright cherry aroma along with hints of plum early and chocolate late.
Chardonnay Reserve, non-vintage. $14.95. Color is white gold, aroma is faint; medium body and fruity with good acid; lacks complexity.
– Fenn Valley Vineyards, Fennville, 800-432-6265:
2000 Cabernet Franc. $15. Light in color but fairly intense cherry and black pepper flavor. Tart finish.
– Lemon Creek, Berrien Springs, 616-471-1321:
2000 Chardonnay. $12. Strong hints of pear and spice, rich texture with a dry finish. Depth, charm and big enough to serve with shellfish with a cream sauce.
– St. Julian Wine Company, Paw Paw, 616-657-5568:
Solera Cream Sherry. $15. This wine won the award for non-vinifera wine at this year’s national Jefferson Cup Invitational competition.
Blue Heron, non-vintage. $6.50. This pleasing semi-sweet white wine comes in a sky blue bottle. Made in the German “sweet reserve style,” the wine receives a dose of fresh grape juice just before bottling. The dominant taste is peach, the alcohol content is a modest 9 percent. Sip by itself or with a cookie after dinner.
– Tabor Hill Winery and Vineyard, Buchanan, 800-283-3363. (Tabor Hill is the rare Michigan wine that is distributed in Chicago. Six to 12 wines may be found in various restaurants and wine shops.):
Red Arrow Red, non-vintage red table wine ($19.95). Blend of cabernet franc, merlot and cabernet sauvignon, weak nose but rich, round mouth feel and delightful raspberry and mint flavors.
– Warner Vineyards, Paw Paw, 616-657-3165:
Veritas, non-vintage red blend. $15. Dark color, lots of fruit flavors, notably blackberry and cassis, but not cloying; clean finish.
If your travels take you as far as Traverse City, the following wineries are setting high standards: Black Star Farms, Chateau Grand Traverse, Chateau de Leelanau Vineyard and Winery, Cicconne Vineyard and Winery, Leelanau Wine Cellars, L. Mawbry Vineyards, Shady Lane Cellars, Willow Vineyard.
