(2 forks)
3830 W. Lawrence Ave.
773-539-4398
Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Tues.-Thurs.; 9 a.m.-11 p.m. Fri.-Sat.; 9 a.m.-9 p.m. Sun.
Credit cards: M, V
Noise factor: Conversation friendly
First impressions
Simple but attractive, this Latin grill offers food cooked with a Guatemalan accent. The rectangular, brick-walled dining room, decorated with Latin art, contains about 16 tables. At one end, large plate glass windows offer a view of the street and passersby.
On the plate
The big draw here are parrilladas, platter presentations of grilled items meant for sharing at the table, such as a grilled shrimp plate or the parrillada combination (sausage, steaks, chicken, short ribs and pork chops). The restaurant also offers three breakfast plates until 1 p.m., soups, tacos, sandwiches and burritos with a variety of fillings.
At your service
Cordial is an apt word for the manner in which servers deal with customers. The owners, three couples, practice hands-on management, cooking, serving or providing information on unfamiliar menu items and advice on combining and sharing items.
Second helpings
A good place to begin is with the very first item on the menu, chuchitos ($3.95). Described as “tamali-style empanada,” it turns out to be a generous blanket of moist cornmeal wrapped around a modest but snappy-flavored filling of pork and topped with a mild tomato sauce. Also tasty, a cup of fragrant chicken broth with small slices of tender chicken and vegetables. Among Mayan Sol dinners, carne asada (skirt steak) is pleasantly chewy and flavorful. Fresh ingredients lift the chile relleno, a green pepper stuffed with ground beef, above the ordinary. Basting the char-grilled chicken breast with ciliantro oil accomplishes the same end. The desserts number only two, but a single bite of a giant wedge of tres leches (three milks) cake or an equally outsized piece of flan with a cheesecake consistency should convince all but the sweetest teeth that nothing more is needed.
Take a pass
The ingredients in the house salad are fresh but not distinctive. Choose the soup instead. Refried black beans are overly dry and dense.
Thirst quenchers
Bottled water from Jamaica, non-alcoholic sangria, sidral (carbonated apple cider), horchata (rice water), American soft drinks, atole de elote (corn gruel), coffee and tea, BYOB.
Extras
There is no hot sauce on the table, but request condiments and the server will quickly produce a dish of pico de gallo that’s more assertive than the Mexican version and a small serving of papaya hot sauce, which contains sufficient habanero pepper to blow up a bridge.
Price range
Appetizers and entree soups, $3.95-$12.95; breakfast, $6.75-$7.95; tacos, sandwiches and burritos, $1.95-$5.95; dinners, $7.95-$18.50; platters, $36-$45; drinks, $1.50-$2.50; desserts, $3.95.
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Reviews are based on anonymous visits by Tribune Co. staff members. The meals are paid for by the Tribune.
Ratings key: 4 forks, don’t miss it; 3 forks, one of the best; 2 forks, very good; 1 fork, good
