Iron Horse is one of the country’s most intriguing wineries. Its wines are sufficiently distinguished to be served at the White House, yet no one at the estate in Sonoma County’s Green Valley is resting on laurels or even on vine cuttings. Throughout the vineyards and in the winery questions are asked that lead to innovative changes in the red and white table wine selections. Perhaps the greatest beneficiary of this tampering, however, has been the sparkling wine program, now among America’s finest. Iron Horse offers a half-dozen sparklers to choose among for celebrating the arrival of the New Year or a social occasion on New Year’s Day. For those who like their bubbles to be slightly sweet (“off-dry,” says the wine trade), I recommend this Russian Cuvee. Created to honor the Reagan-Gorbachev summits two decades ago, the cuvee is a 75-25 percent blend of pinot noir and chardonnay, which develops character during four years on the yeast. Pleasant tasting on its own, the Russian Cuvee is well suited to mildly salty appetizers, mildly sweet desserts and various sweet-sour preparations. Cost: $28.
