Some people prefer them natural, a little flat, without anything artificial added to fluff them up. And if they’re a little warmer than usual, that’s OK too.
We’re talking about real ales–those cool, complex, cask-conditioned natural wonders that perfectly meld the bitter with the sweet, sometimes in the same sip. With nowhere near the effervescence of a mass-market brew, which is usually injected with carbon dioxide, real ale draws a following that appreciates flavor over froth, substance over sparkle.
This year’s Real Ale Fest, a scaled-back version of the event started in 1996 by Ray Daniels and the Chicago Beer Society, hits Chicago next week. Get a jump on the real ale events and check out some of these top local offerings.
Alpha King, $5
Once the self-proclaimed “best dive in America,” the newly renovated Tuman’s not only has a spruced-up interior but an impressive assortment of real ales. The Alpha King is a creamy, hoppy number with a little more natural carbonation than you might expect and a vaguely bitter finish. At an alcohol level around 6 percent to 7 percent, it’s got all the courage of a good India Pale Ale. The perfect entree to go with it? Owner Tommy McGee recommends the chipotle-glazed pork chops ($14). 2159 W. Chicago Ave. 773-782-1400.
Adnam’s Bitter, $6
This classic British pub-style ale is heavy on hop-and-malt character, but at 3.7-percent alcohol it’s less boozy than most other real ales. It’s available in the cask at Mac’s, a neighborhood pub with some of the tastiest mac ‘n’ cheese you’ll ever have ($8), especially when you add your own ingredients like spinach and mushrooms. Such comfort food goes great with Adnam’s, providing a kind of backbone to the complex, lemony melange of this authentic brew. 1801 W. Division St. 773-782-4400.
Bell’s Two Hearted Ale, $4
One of the most popular real ales served at the Clark Street Ale House is this Kalamazoo, Mich., offering. It has citrus and pine notes and a sophisticated white fluffy head that has staying power (probably due to the lesser degree of “fake” carbonation and more of the “real” in-cask secondary fermentation). Forget the food with this one–bartender Brian Quaid recommends a nice smooth 12-year-old Macallan single-malt scotch sidecar to cut the bitter finish of this IPA. 742 N. Clark St. 312-642-9253.
Bitter End, $5
This local ale is brewed by Two Brothers in west suburban Warrenville and served up at Brisku’s Bistro. The eponymous “bitter end” comes in that last gulp, when you get a minor jolt of bitter green hops that have settled to the bottom of the glass. Prior to that, it’s nicely balanced, bracing and fresh as a daisy. In fact, you can actually detect some floral undertones mixed in with the herbs and hops. Stop in on Tuesdays when the hand-formed burgers are two bucks. 4100 N. Kedzie Ave. 773-279-9141.
Northwind Imperial Stout, $5
As thick and dark as the spent motor oil from your dad’s Oldsmobile, and with a syrupy silkiness that could only be found in a cask-conditioned stout, this highly regarded Two Brothers selection can be found at the popular Lakeview watering hole J.T. Collins. It’s an opaque, malty and chocolatey full-bodied brew with a thick, khaki-colored head that resembles a mushroom sprouting out of dark soil. 3358 N. Lincoln Ave. 773-327-7467.
Ale, yeah!
The Real Ale Fest happens all over the city. Check out these events.
Real Ale Feast
Chef Charles Feggert prepares a gourmet dinner and pairs entrees with real ales brewed exclusively for this dinner. 6-9 p.m. March 4. $59-$64. Rock Bottom, 1 W. Grand Ave. 312-755-9339.
Real Ale Chicago Pub Crawl
This loosely organized crawl hits several of the city’s best beer bars, including Brisku’s Bistro, Clark Street Ale House, Goose Island, J.T. Collins, Mac’s, Map Room, Rock Bottom Chicago and Tuman’s. Noon-midnight, March 5. No cover. 773-665-1300.
Real Ale, Real Food Tasting
More than 30 real ales from across the country are paired with local artisanal foods, including cheeses and meats. 6-11 p.m. March 6. $30-$35. Goose Island Wrigleyville, 3535 N. Clark St. 773-832-9040.
