(1 fork)
667 Vernon Ave., Glencoe
847-835-6225
Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Tues.-Sat., 11 a.m.-8 p.m. Sun.
Credit cards: M, V
Noise factor: Conversation challenged
Delivery: Yes
First impressions
This unassuming storefront, in the heart of Glencoe’s downtown, is an airy, open room that attempts to blend the old and the new: There’s big stone fireplace, the floors are hardwood and the walls are lined with knotty pine paneling (and Glencoe Historical Society photos), but there are also pendant lights and two suspended large-screen plasma TVs to jolt diners back to the present day. Vernon’s had all the markings of a family restaurant the evening we visited, including the nonstop background noise of chattering, scampering kids.
On the plate
There are few surprises on the ultra-casual menu, which is heavy on sandwiches (at least 25 of them, including five versions of hot dogs) and pizza (with five choices of crust, from extra-thin to stuffed). There are also ribs (the full slab, at $16, is the only entree that exceeds our Cheap Eats limit); chicken, eggplant and veal parmigiana; couple of pastas; a shrimp basket; and several main-dish salads. Sandwiches come to the table in child-friendly baskets, while salads and entrees are served on bright blue plates. Wrapped brownies are the only dessert.
At your service
Diners place orders at the counter, pay, get a plastic number and then display it on a little stand at their table. Though service at the counter was genial enough, the teenager who delivered our order was devoid of finesse; he practically dumped the dishes onto the table without attempting to figure out who ordered what. Unless you’re out for a super-simple dinner with the kids, Vernon’s may be a better option for lunch.
Second helpings
The extra-thin pizza is a winner for anyone who is a fan of crackerlike crusts–and the cheese and sauce don’t overwhelm it. Chicken parmigiana (which comes with a salad, garlic bread and a side of pasta) is tender and juicy, even if it is missing the usual breading. Fries–both the traditional French, which come with sandwiches, and an American (round) version, served with entrees–are crisp and good.
Take a pass
The barbecued chicken dinner (a hefty half bird) is presented unappetizingly (even a sprig of parsley would help) and topped with a thin, too-tangy sauce that tastes bottled. Onion rings are ordinary–and a bit on the greasy side.
Thirst quenchers
You’ll find a variety of fountain soft drinks (with free refills), canned sodas and bottled beers; there also are two white and two red wines avail-able by the bottle or glass.
Price range
Sandwiches, $2.75-$6.25; salads, $1.75-$9.50; pizza by the slice, $2.35; entrees, $5.75-$16; beverages, $1-$6.50; dessert, 80 cents.
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Reviews are based on anonymous visits by Tribune Co. staff members. The meals are paid for by the Tribune.
Ratings key: 4 forks, don’t miss it; 3 forks, one of the best; 2 forks, very good; 1 fork, good
