It’s close to 10 on a balmy summer night. Groups of friends and couples alike pack the long wooden communal tables at a buzzing neighborhood restaurant. The decibels grow as conversation competes with the latest Gipsy Kings album. The passing of plates and clinking of glasses show no sign of letting up. Whizzing past are servers with small earthenware cazuelas brimming with braised octopus, miniature cocottes piping with garlicky cod brandade and wine carafinas holding just enough Rioja for two.
No, this is not Barcelona; this is Chicago, embracing small-plates dining as its newest culinary trend.
The restaurant is Avec, chef Paul Kahan’s latest contribution to the city. It has been packing in tourists and local foodies alike since opening its doors last September. The tiny, cigar box of a restaurant sought not to be comfy, themed or elaborate but to bring people together over small plates of simple Mediterranean classics and conversation-starter wines.
Alain Ducasse jumped the trend with the small tastes of Spoon in Paris, Jose Andres delighted Washington, D.C., with his Mediterranean meze at Zaytinya, and Mario Batali is once again wowing New Yorkers with Casa Mono. Here in Chicago in the year since Avec kick-started a buzz, small-plates restaurants have sprung up all over town. The jazzed-up tapas spot Sangria, Shawn McClain’s vegetarian enclave Green Zebra, Glenview’s French-Asian Flight, the lounge/eatery Room 22, and Latin American-Indian fused Vermilion.
Even established restaurants are hop-ping the train, dumping the traditional appetizer-entree menu for a slew of small plates. West Town’s Flo recently created what they call a bocadito menu, featuring about a dozen New Mexico-influenced dishes sized specifically for sharing. Wicker Park’s Souk now offers two dozen kemia, or North African tapas. In January, Menagerie in Lakeview debuted a quartet of tastes, offering four small plates for $15. And just months ago, W Hotel Lakeshore’s Wave overhauled the entire menu in favor of Mediterranean small plates.
World at our door
It would appear that the tapas-style dining that world-traveling foodies have ex-tolled for years might have finally cracked the code Stateside.
“It’s interesting because so many places have tried small plates and the phenom-enon has never really worked in this country until recently,” Kahan said. “Americans have become much more food and wine savvy in the last 20 to 30 years, plus American wine consumption has gone up each year and small plates lend themselves incredibly well to trying a lot of different wines with food.”
Kahan also pointed out that this style of eating –“picking at a little of everything throughout the day”– comes naturally for chefs, so translating it to their menus is easy.
Chef Jason Paskewitz said that his move to the tapas format of Sangria was almost second nature.
“Growing up in a Greek household, we always had a little of everything–dips, olives, cheeses–so the idea of eating that way is very familiar,” he said. “This style of eating is more laid-back, it’s fun, your food is coming out in waves and you get a chance to sample so many different things.”
The shift from traditional dining to a more relaxed, sociable and communal eat-ing experience also seems to give diners more power in choice.
“It’s very flexible in the amount of food you can order, amount of time you want to spend in the restaurant and amount of money you want to spend,” McClain said. “You’re determining how your evening will go rather than being locked into a tra-ditional format.”
Less is more
For home cooks who may want to try the small-plates concept for their next party, area chefs noted that these dishes are far from entrees simply reapportioned.
McClain said the key to creating small plates is to “disregard traditional styles and look at complements of flavors rather than feeling like you have to have a protein, sauce, starch and vegetable on one plate.”
Vermilion owner Rohini Dey credited her restaurant’s success with small plates to “stepping out of the ordinary by marrying different cuisines, taking ingredients from one region and spice from another, which can be experimented with in so many different ways.”
Dey and chef Maneet Chauhan season ceviche with pomegranate powder and ginger, soak tilapia fillets in traditional Indian tandoori marinade and serve cheesy spinach empanadas with tangy Indian-style mango chutney.
Chef Gilbert Langlois of Tank agreed with the mix-it-up theory, creating cross-cultural dishes like wasabi-buttered sea scallops topped with tomatillos and cherry tomatoes. He suggested that home cooks hosting a small-plates party should avoid highlighting one cuisine and “experiment with different regions. Don’t be afraid to do traditional French pate or charcuterie and then some Thai shrimp cakes.”
At Glenview’s Flight, chef Quoc Luong’s fare lives up to the wine bar’s name, with various food flights like lamb chops dressed three ways: topped with basil-mint salsa, crusted in Dijon-herb bread crumbs and glazed in red wine. He said that this style is extremely handy for parties, as guests can sample whichever preparation suits them. Small-plates portions should be “a little bigger than a tasting portion but not as big as an entree,” he said, and suggested offering a mix of vegetable, seafood and meat dishes “to give guests a feeling of balance.”
To simplify your workload, choose dishes that can be made ahead of time so that you’re not stuck in the kitchen creating made-to-order hassles. One of Paskewitz’s party tricks is to “stick everything you can on skewers. Make a great, simple chimi-churri or pesto marinade, soak your veggies, steak, chicken or seafood in it, skewer ’em up and toss ’em on the grill.”
Later, he said, create an assortment of small plates by matching the room tem-perature skewers with a small accompaniment such as lightly dressed greens under chicken, raisin-studded couscous beside grilled veggies or mango-jalapeno salsa on top of steak.
With great ideas like these, maybe it is time to give up our “supersize” mentality. Life can be enjoyed via small plates, letting us dabble rather than decide.
Beef salad with orange-sesame dressing
Preparation time: 40 minutes
Cooking time: 6 minutes
Chilling time: 1 hour
Yield: 6 servings
From chef Gilbert Langlois of Tank.
1 large seedless cucumber, julienned
1/2 pound daikon radish or jicama, peeled and julienned
1 red bell pepper, julienned
1 can (6 ounces) frozen orange juice concentrate, unthawed
1/3 cup plus 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
3 green onions, finely chopped
2 tablespoons toasted sesame seeds, see note
1 12-ounce eye of round beef, or 12 ounces filet mignon, steaks halved vertically
1/2 teaspoon salt
Freshly ground pepper
1 cup each: rice wine, low-sodium soy sauce
2 cups bean sprouts
1/4 cup cilantro leaves
1. Toss together cucumber, daikon radish and bell pepper in a large bowl; cover with plastic. Refrigerate. Puree frozen juice concentrate and 1/3 cup of the vegetable oil in a blender; stir in onions and 1 1/2 tablespoons of the sesame seeds; set aside.
2. Heat remaining 2 tablespoons of the vegetable oil in a medium skillet over high heat until almost smoking. Season beef with salt and pepper; transfer to skillet. Cook on one side to sear, about 1 minute. Reduce heat to medium; cook 1 minute more. Turn beef; cook 2 minutes. Add rice wine; cook 1 minute. Add soy sauce; cook 1 minute. Remove beef; set aside. Continue cooking wine-soy mixture 1 minute. Remove from heat
3. Transfer beef and wine-soy mixture to bowl. Cover bowl; refrigerate 1 hour. Remove beef from marinade, discarding marinade. Slice beef into thin strips; toss beef with julienned vegetables and orange dressing. Divide among 6 plates. Garnish with bean sprouts, cilantro and remaining sesame seeds.
Note: Toast sesame seeds in a small, dry skillet over medium-low heat until light brown and fragrant, 2-3 minutes. Immediately remove pan from heat.
Nutrition information per serving:
349 calories, 52% of calories from fat, 20 g fat, 3 g saturated fat, 29 mg cholesterol, 21 g carbohydrates, 16 g protein, 944 mg sodium, 2 g fiber
Pomegranate ceviche
Preparation time: 25 minutes
Marinating time: 1 hour
Yield: 6 servings
Adapted from Chef Maneet Chauhan of Vermilion.
5 ounces each, uncooked: shrimp, tilapia fillet, salmon fillet, bay scallops
2 tablespoons each, finely chopped: cilantro, mint leaves
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
Juice of 1 lime
1 each, finely chopped: jalapeno, plum tomato, clove garlic
1 piece (1/2-inch long) fresh ginger root, grated
1 teaspoon sugar
1/2 red onion, finely chopped
1/4 cup pomegranate juice
1/2 teaspoon dried pomegranate powder, optional, see note
1/2 teaspoon each: chili powder, salt
1 tablespoon each: chopped mango or pomegranate seeds, optional, see note
1 mint sprig, optional
Cut shrimp in 3 pieces; dice tilapia and salmon. Transfer whole bay scallops, shrimp, tilapia and salmon to a resealable food storage bag. Add cilantro, mint, oil, lime juice, jalapeno, tomato, garlic, ginger root, sugar, red onion, pomegranate juice, pomegranate powder, chili powder and salt. Seal; press bag together to completely coat seafood. Transfer to refrigerator; marinate 2 hours. Serve garnished with chopped mango, pomegranate seeds or a mint leaf, if desired.
Note: Pomegranate seeds and pomegranate powder (dried pomegranate seeds ground into a dry paste) are available at Indian markets.
Nutrition information per serving:
192 calories, 39% of calories from fat, 8 g fat, 1 g saturated fat, 71 mg cholesterol, 10 g carbohydrates, 18 g protein, 294 mg sodium, 0.6 g fiber
Stuffed peppers with date emulsion and fennel salad
Preparation time: 25 minutes
Cooking time: 27 minutes
Yield: 4 servings
Chef Joseph Rossi of Room 22 uses Spanish piquillo peppers (sold in jars or cans in specialty markets, such as Fox & Obel), but you can substitute small roasted sweet peppers or poblano peppers.
Filling:
1 pound Mexican chorizo sausage, removed from casings, crumbled
1 shallot, finely chopped
4 plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded, diced
1/2 teaspoon salt
Freshly ground pepper
1 bunch cilantro, finely chopped
3/4 cup whipping cream
Fennel salad:
1 bulb fennel, top trimmed, shaved with vegetable peeler
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon each: chopped parsley, lemon juice
Date emulsion:
6 dates
1/4 cup chicken broth
1/2 cup olive oil
Juice of 1/2 small lemon
1/2 teaspoon salt
Freshly ground pepper 1 jar (7.6 ounces) piquillo peppers, drained
1. Cook chorizo in a medium skillet over medium-high heat, stirring until cooked thoroughly, about 5 minutes. Remove cho-rizo to a plate; set aside. Drain all but 1 tablespoon of the fat from skillet. Add shallot; cook over medium heat until translu-cent, about 3 minutes. Add tomatoes, salt and pepper to taste. Cook 5 minutes; set aside.
2. Heat cilantro and cream to a simmer in a small saucepan over medium heat; add to shallot/tomato mixture. Cook over medium heat until the cream thickens, about 5 minutes. Add chorizo; season with salt and pepper. Set aside to cool.
3. For salad, toss fennel, oil, parsley and lemon juice in a bowl; season with salt. Set aside.
4. For emulsion, combine dates and chicken broth in bowl; soak 10 minutes. Pour into a blender; puree. Slowly pour in olive oil; blend to emulsify. Pour in lemon juice; blend. Season with salt and pepper. Set aside.
5. Heat oven to 400 degrees. Spoon chorizo mixture into each pepper. Place stuffed peppers on a lightly greased baking sheet; bake until heated through, about 8 minutes.
6. Divide the fennel salad among 4 four plates. Place the pep-pers on salad. Spoon date emulsion around the salad.
Nutrition information per serving:
calories,% of calories from fat, g fat, g saturated fat, mg cholesterol, g carbohydrates, g protein, mg sodium, g fiber
Grilled shrimp with feta cheese and pistou on flatbread
Preparation time: 25 minutes
Marinating time: 2 hours
Cooking time: 8 minutes
Yield: 4 servings
Pistou is France’s answer to pesto. There will be leftover mayonnaise and pistou. From chef David Murphy of Wave.
Pistou-marinated shrimp:
3/4 cup plus 4 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 cup each, loosely packed: basil leaves, parsley leaves
2 large cloves garlic
12 large uncooked shrimp, peeled, deveined
1/4 teaspoon coarse salt
Freshly ground pepper
Lemon-chive mayonnaise:
1/2 cup mayonnaise
1 tablespoon each: lemon juice, chopped chives
Topping:
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 teaspoons each: minced garlic, chopped shallot
1/2 cup store-bought roasted red pepper, julienned
1/4 cup sliced kalamata or Nicoise olives
2 teaspoons lemon zest
4 squares (10 inches) flatbread, such as lavash, or 2 rounds (6 inches each) pita, halved, see note
1/2 cup water-packed feta cheese, drained, crumbled
1. To make the pistou, puree oil, basil, parsley and garlic in a blender or food processor. Transfer 1/4 cup of the pistou to a large resealable food storage bag; add shrimp. Seal bag; shake to coat shrimp. Refrigerate at least 2 hours.
2. Place the remaining pistou in a bowl; cover with plastic wrap, pressing the plastic onto the top of the pistou to remove air bubbles; refrigerate.
3. For the mayonnaise, combine mayonnaise, lemon juice and chives in a mixing bowl. Cover; refrigerate.
4. Heat oven to 400 degrees. Remove shrimp from marinade, discarding marinade; season with salt and pepper. Heat 1 1/2 teaspoons of the olive oil in a medium skillet over medium-high heat. Add shrimp; cook until barely pink. Remove from pan; set aside.
5. In the same skillet, heat 1 1/2 teaspoons of the olive oil; add the garlic and shallots. Cook until aromatic, about 30 seconds. Meanwhile, roughly chop shrimp; return to the pan. Immediately add the peppers and olives; cook, stirring occasionally, 1 minute. Stir in lemon zest. Remove from heat; set aside.
6. Place the flatbread onto the rack of the heated oven 4 minutes. Remove bread from oven; place on a cutting board. Spread 2 tablespoons of the lemon-chive mayonnaise on each piece. Divide the shrimp, pepper and olive mixture among bread squares; sprinkle each with feta cheese. Cut each into three rectangles. Serve immediately.
Note: Lavash, flatbread and pita are sold in Middle Eastern and Mediterranean bakeries as well as some specialty markets and supermarkets.
Nutrition information per serving:
702 calories, 82% of calories from fat, 65 g fat, 11 g saturated fat, 59 mg cholesterol, 21 g carbohydrates, 10 g protein, 846 mg sodium, 2 g fiber
Fennel risotto cake
Preparation time: 1 hour
Cooking time: 2 hours
Cooling time: 30 minutes
Yield: 8 servings
Adapted from chef Shawn McClain of Green Zebra.
Cakes:
1 large fennel bulb, 3/4 of bulb minced, 1/4 thinly sliced
2 cups red wine
1/2 cup port
2 tablespoons sugar
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 medium onion, minced
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 1/2 cups arborio rice
1/2 cup licorice-flavored liqueur such as anisette, ouzo or sambuca
2 cans (14 ounces each) vegetable broth
1/2 cup finely grated Parmesan cheese
2 tablespoons mascarpone cheese
1 tablespoon fennel pollen, optional, see note
3 cups bread crumbs
1/2 teaspoon salt
Freshly ground pepper
1 tablespoon butter
1. Heat oven to 250 degrees. Roast fennel slices until golden brown, about 30 minutes; set aside.
2. Meanwhile, heat red wine, port and sugar in a non-reactive saucepan over medium heat until it becomes syrupy, about 45 minutes. Remove from heat; set aside.
3. Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a medium skillet over medium heat. Add minced fennel, onion and garlic; cook until onion is translucent, about 5 minutes. Add rice; reduce heat to low-medium. Cook, stirring, 1 minute. Add liqueur; cook until liquid evaporates, about 5 minutes.
4. Meanwhile, heat vegetable broth in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat just to simmer; remove from heat. Add one-third of the warm vegetable stock to the rice. Cook, stir-ring, until liquid is absorbed into the rice, about 10 minutes. Repeat two more times until rice feels soft but not mushy, about 30 minutes total cooking time. (You may need a little more vegetable stock if the rice still tastes firm.) Remove rice from heat; fold in Parmesan, mascarpone and fennel pollen. Spread rice in 1 layer on baking sheet; set aside to cool, about 30 minutes.
5. Heat oven to 350 degrees. Place bread crumbs in a large pan or plate. Form cooled risotto into 8 small balls with your hands. Flatten balls; coat on all sides with bread crumbs. Heat remaining 1 tablespoon of the olive oil in large skillet; cook cakes until golden, in batches if necessary, turning once, about 3 minutes each side. Return cooked cakes to baking pan. Season with salt and pepper.
6. Transfer baking pan to oven. Cook until crisp and deep golden, about 4 minutes.
7. Meanwhile, heat wine sauce over medium heat in sauce-pan until heated through, about 2 minutes. Whisk in butter. Serve with cakes.
Note: Fennel pollen, harvested from fennel flowers, has an intense sweetness. It is sold at The Spice House in Chicago and Evanston.
Nutrition information per serving:
440 calories, 26% of calories from fat, 12 g fat, 4 g saturated fat, 13 mg cholesterol, 69 g carbohydrates, 12 g protein, 972 mg sodium, 4 g fiber
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Safe sips for small plates
Eduard Seitan, wine director for Blackbird and Avec, offered some guidance on pairing wines with a table full of small-plate flavors. Order or serve your small plates in a progression of “waves” from lightest to heaviest, he said. Pair a crisp white such as viognier with fresh vegetable small plates, a rose with an assortment of cream-based or seafood dishes, and syrah or cabernet sauvignon with braised meats.
Stick with regions when pairing. If you’re having Spanish-inspired fare, go with a Spanish grape such as tempranillo. “The same land that grows and inspires the food also produces the wines, so most of the time they are made for each other,” Seitan said.
Consider counter-balancing when pairing. Fatty meats such as short ribs need a lean wine like an albarino; spicy Asian dishes pair well with sweeter wines such as riesling; creamy sauces are balanced with citrusy wines like sauvignon blanc. Use rose as your crutch. With one of the most versatile flavor profiles among wines, it works with nearly everything.
— Heather Shouse
