Tired of oversized (and overpriced) entrees? These internationally inflected spots prove less is more by emphasizing flavor with tapas-sized offerings.
de cero
This newbie modern taqueria features a menu that’s almost entirely devoted to small plates, offering only a handful of full-size entrees. The taco combination plate is a best bet, with eight tacos, three salsas and Mexican sour cream ($23). The mini tacos are served in house-made flour tortillas with fillings like rock shrimp and pico de gallo; battered catfish with Mexican slaw and chipotle mayo; and the grilled tuna with mango and habanero salsa. Or try the combination tamale plate ($8), with fresh corn, cilantro pulled pork and chipotle chicken selections. 814 W. Randolph St. 312-455-8114.
Charlie’s on Leavitt
Cafe Matou chef Charlie Soucher opened his much-anticipated new place last week with a contemporary American menu featuring Indian, Moroccan, Asian and Mediterranean influences. Look for choices like grilled Merguez lamb sausage (a spicy North African dish) with herbed fresh-from-the-farm Wisconsin tomatoes and garlic bread ($8.50), and Prince Edward Island mussels steamed in a jacked-up version of New England clam chowder. Soucher promises the wine list will also “slap you in the face” with international choices aimed to pair with the vibrant food flavors. 4352 N. Leavitt St. 773-279-1600.
Room 22
The focus of this east Hubbard Street locale is firmly on the food thanks to chef Patrick Robertson, who did stints at one sixtyblue and most recently the Regent Beverly Wilshire before heading back to Chicago to consult at the other 22 Hubbard Street address (Rockit Bar and Grill at 22 W. Hubbard). Until Robertson debuts his fall tasting menu, enjoy choices including the spiced-duck rillette with truffle honey and orange mash ($7), the charcuterie tasting plate ($14) and the roasted pequillo pepper with a rich chorizo and Medjool date filling ($7). 22 E. Hubbard St. 312-527-4900.
Tsuki
Open since spring, this sushi spot is the Japanese version of a tapas house, with hot and cold dishes priced to share. The sushi bar choices include the standards priced by the piece, like salmon ($2.50) and akami maguro nigiri ($2.50). Rolls include the spicy tuna ($6.50) and the chopstick-challenging spider roll ($9.50) with its huge crab chunks. Hot choices include the pari pari pizza ($5.50), a thin-crust Japanese-style vegetable-topped pizza, and entrees such as the pistachio-crusted teriyaki salmon ($8.95). Tsuki recently received its liquor license, but watch out: Our waiter unexpectedly upgraded our $7 wine to the top-shelf stuff, setting us back an extra $3 a glass. 1441 W. Fullerton 773-883-8722.
Trio Atelier
We never thought we would say this, but now that Trio is serving French-flaired small plates, you can actually have a food tab under $25. Owner Henry Adaniya has changed the concept since the departure of chef Grant Achatz, creating Trio Atelier (translates to “artist workroom”), a more back-to-basics affair. This is the fourth evolution of Trio; this time with chef Dale Levitski, formerly of La Tache, at the helm. The menu has petit, medium and large plates, with nothing more than $25. Choices include grilled octopus ($6), a sea scallop with verjus grapes and wilted greens ($7) and a chilled sirloin crostini with Boursin cheese and tapenade ($8). A full bar has been added, and wines are served in carafes that look like chemistry beakers. 1625 Hinman Ave., Evanston, 847-733-8746.
