Star reviews are based on no fewer than two visits by a Tribune reviewer; one star equals Good, two stars Very Good, three stars Excellent and four stars Outstanding.
Fork reviews are based on a one-time visit by a Tribune staff member; one fork equals Good, two forks Very Good, three forks One of the Best and four forks Don’t Miss It.
Prices: A range of entree prices is listed; typically, expect appetizers to be half the price of an average entree.
Credit cards: A, American Express; DC, Diners Club; DS, Discover; M, MasterCard; V, Visa.
CITY
ADOBO GRILL, 1610 N. Wells St., 312-266-7999. The considerable promise of this Old Town restaurant has been met by chef Freddy Sanchez, who is producing some of the best Mexican cooking in town, and a greatly improved front-room staff. Recommended: Ceviche assortment, guacamole (prepared tableside), tilapia with mushroom escabeche, venison tampiqueno. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., brunch Sat.-Sun. Entree prices: $12.95-$24.95. Credit cards: A, DC, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, smoking at bar only. (star)(star)(star)
AVENUES, Peninsula Chicago Hotel, 108 E. Superior St., 312-573-6754. Chicago’s finest and easily most expensive seafood specialist justifies its price tag with clean, beautifully presented dishes whose gentle accents let the quality of the fish shine through. The few meat dishes on the menu are stunning as well. Service manages the tricky task of being unobtrusive, while anticipating almost every dining need. Recommended: Seabass sashimi, paella chowder, skate wing, thyme parfait. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat. Entree prices: $28-$72. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking. (star)(star)(star)1/2
CHINA GRILL, 230 N. Michigan Ave., 312-334-6700. Bring a fat wallet (one that belongs to someone else) and a big appetite to this hip-looking hotspot in the Hard Rock Hotel. Part of a chain with links in Miami, New York and Las Vegas, China Grill offers a menu of Chinese and pan-Asian creations, dramatically presented on family-style platters. Most of the food is just fine, but the sticker-shock ($33 for a Kobe-beef appetizer, $39 for a lamb-loin main course) is considerable. Recommended: Miso-glazed black cod, barbecued salmon, Bananas in a Box. Open: Breakfast, lunch and dinner daily. Entree prices: $26-$58. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Valet parking (discount with validation), smoking at bar only. (star)
COCO PAZZO, 300 W. Hubbard St., 312-836-0900. Things are outwardly the same at Coco Pazzo these days; the jazzed-up loft space is as sophisticated looking as it was when the restaurant opened nearly 13 years ago, and the menu is still a reliable repository of rustic Tuscan cuisine. The internal difference is that general manager Jack Weiss is now principal owner, having bought out the NYC people, and chef Tony Priolo, on board for six years, is now a partner. Priolo’s pastas are rich and soul-nurturing, his fish are paragons of perfection via simplicity and the risotto is a fail-safe specialty. Recommended: Risotto with prawns, veal ravioli, roasted sea bass. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri. Entree prices: $15-$35. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Valet parking, smoking at bar only. (star)(star)(star)
DRAGONFLY MANDARIN, 832 W. Randolph St., 312-787-7600. This restaurant-cum-nightclub serves Chinese food with style. The menu, despite some fanciful nicknames (crab rangoon is “crabby cheese crunch”), is basic neighborhood Chinese, most of it capably executed. Recommended: Hot and sour soup, Peking duck, seafood platter. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Sat., dim sum brunch Sun. Entree prices: $12-$30. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended on weekends. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking. (star)
DRAKE BROS. STEAKS CHICAGO, 140 E. Walton St., 312-787-2200. The Drake Hotel’s venerable Oak Terrace Room has been transformed into a white-tablecloth steakhouse whose large windows offer views of Michigan Avenue, Lake Shore Drive and Lake Michigan. Prime beef is augmented by such retro touches as Bookbinder’s Soup and Cherries Jubilee, and as a bonus, the restaurant will serve anything from the downstairs Cape Cod Room menu. Recommended: Crab cakes, Drake Bros. steak, pork chop. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., breakfast-lunch daily, brunch Sun. Entree prices: $19-$65. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Accepted. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking. (star)(star)
GREEN ZEBRA, 1460 W. Chicago Ave., 312-243-7100. Vegetarian cooking is the thrust of Shawn (Spring) McClain’s West Town restaurant, whose menu of small plates makes room for exactly one fish and one chicken dish. Otherwise it’s veggie and vegan all the way, including such trompe l’oeil creations as a California roll that substitutes pulsed coconut for rice. Plan on ordering three dishes per person (which won’t break the bank) for a filling meal, but save room for the sensational desserts. Recommended: Avocado panna cotta, eggplant potstickers, chicken breast, Dreamsicle float. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun. Prices: All plates $7-$14. Credit cards: A, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking. (star)(star)(star)
HAMA MATSU, 5143 N. Clark St., 773-506-2978. A light and airy 40-seater whose Japanese offerings are augmented by Korean dishes, which take up 25 percent of the menu and greatly increase one’s spicy-food options. Most customers order sushi, enough so that the bar gets backed up on busy nights; ordering an appetizer or two is a good strategy, especially if you’re hungry. Recommended: Kalbi, gyoza, tsunami roll, seafood bi bim bap. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $10.95-$24.95. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M , V. Reservations: Not accepted. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, no smoking, BYO. (star)
JIN JU, 5203 N. Clark St., 773-334-6377. Co-owner Peter Mah spun a college business-plan assignment into this user-friendly Korean restaurant, boasting well-organized menus and highly professional service to go with the authentic, prettily presented food. A short, modestly priced wine list is a plus, as are the fanciful martinis made from soju liquor. Recommended: Steamed dumplings, dak gan jang, kalbi, o jinga bokum. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun. Entree prices: $9-$18. Credit cards: A, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended on weekends. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Smoking in bar only. (star)(star)
LA VITA, 1359 W. Taylor St., 312-491-1414. The most contemporary-looking Italian restaurant on the Taylor Street restaurant corridor, La Vita is low-lit enough to be romantic, though it’s too noisy on weekends for true intimacy. The chef perks up the Italian menu with the occasional creative touch, sometimes to excess, but the food is solid overall. Recommended: Ahi tuna crostini, grilled calamari, seafood pappardelle, panna cotta. Open: Dinner Mon-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri. Entree prices, $14-$26. Credit cards: A, DC, M, V. Reservations: Recommended on weekends. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Valet parking. (star)
LE LAN, 749 N. Clark St., 312-280-9100. Four-star chefs Arun Sampanthavivat and Roland Liccioni collaborated on this ambitious French-Vietnamese hybrid, set in a beautifully decorated (if very noisy) River North space. Some of the dishes are heavenly, others are understated to a fault; desserts are particularly strong, and well-trained service is a definite plus. Recommended: Chile-steamed dumpling, kabosha soup, smoked squab, chocolate moelleux, dessert souffle. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat. Entree prices: $18-$32. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking. (star)(star)
MOTO, 945 W. Fulton Market, 312-491-0058. For those looking for the next Big Thing in dining, this cutting-edge restaurant stands ready to deliver an experience that is equal parts cuisine, design and technology. Chef Homaro Cantu applies raw-food and sous vide (under vacuum) techniques to all manner of exotic and painstakingly sourced ingredients, often with breathtaking results. The all-degustation format (consisting of four, seven, 10 or 18 courses) ensures a steady parade of eye-popping dishes, from a relatively familiar sea bass to a head-scratching smoked-watermelon soup with mango emulsion–many of them presented on serving dishes of Cantu’s design. For all the conceptual dazzle, dining here is unintimidating and fun, thanks to a stellar service staff. Recommended: 112-degree scallop, veal breast with beans and rice, quail with liquid salad. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat. Prices: Prix-fixe menus $50-$160. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Valet parking, no smoking. (star)(star)(star)
NACIONAL 27, 325 W. Huron St., 312-664-2727. One of the first pan-Latin restaurants in the city, Nacional 27 has established itself as arguably the best. The menu and wine list have grown in size and sophistication, and chef Randy Zweiban’s cooking is stellar. The restaurant hits its lively peak on weekends, when the center of the dining room is cleared (around 10:30 or so) for Latin dancing to deejay music. Recommended: Ceviche sampler, smoked-chicken empanadas, pork adobado. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat. Entree prices: $13.95-$27.95. Reservations: Recommended. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, smoking at bar only. (star)(star)(star)
THE OUTPOST, 3438 N. Clark St., 773-244-1166. The menu at this cozy Wrigleyville hangout loosely traces a line through the South Pacific, which explains the myriad Asian influences. But there’s always room for game meats as well, particularly in the cooler months. The award-winning wine list offers plenty of fun, easy-drinking wines, particularly from Australia and New Zealand. Recommended: Watermelon-glazed prawns, Thai-style mussels, five-spice duck breast, kajiki (blue marlin), passionfruit sabayon. Entree prices: $14-$19. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, parking lot, smoking at bar only. (star)(star)
PARK GRILL, 11 N. Michigan Ave., 312-521-7275. Millennium Park’s only full-service restaurant impresses with its ambition, handsome interior and creative-American menu by executive chef Bernard Laskowski. The 300-seat dining room overlooks the adjacent Park Grill on the Plaza outdoors, which is also the park’s ice-skating rink during winter months. Recommended: Crabcake with yellow curry, mussels, Peking duck. Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $12.95-$23.95. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, discounted parking, smoking at bar only. (star)(star)
PEARL, 2360 N. Clybourn Ave., 773-348-2450. Marco Conti has transformed his high-end Ferrari restaurant into the less-ostentatious but still-elegant Pearl. The menu is full of dishes Conti cooked to acclaim at bygone restaurants La Locanda and La Risotteria Nord; stick to these and an excellent meal is virtually assured. The twin dining rooms are dark and mellow, though at 10:30 p.m., loud music and a club-hopping crowd imbue the place with a much higher energy level (the kitchen remains open throughout). Recommended: Stuffed calamari, bresaola, osso buco, mushroom risotto, pera affogato. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat. Entree prices: $14.95-$26.95. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended on weekends. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, smoking in bar only. (star)(star)
PLUTON, 873 N.Orleans St., 312-266-1440. Chef Jacky Pluton has re-entered the world of haute cuisine with a splash, selling his Evanston bistro (Jacky’s Place) to concentrate on this 49-seat dining room. Amid understated opulence, diners choose among do-it-yourself four- and five-course tasting menus, or larger tastings (seven and 10 courses) in which the decisions are left to Pluton himself. Either way, you’ll experience stunning dishes, as artistic as they are flavorful. Service needs a coat or two of polish, but that’s all that seems to be missing. Recommended: Foie gras terrine, turnip-rosemary soup, seared squab breast, bass with endive. Open: Dinner Mon-Sat. Prices: Multi-course menus $69-$109. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking. (star)(star)(star)
RED LIGHT, 820 W. Randolph St., 312-733-8880. Red Light’s cuisine is as exciting as its festive and eclectic decor. Chef Jackie Shen mixes satays, spring rolls and five-spice ribs on a pan-Asian menu that doesn’t take itself too seriously–witness playful interpretations of the politically-incorrect crab rangoon. The a la carte menu offers an abundance of treats, but for a real treat, indulge in the chef’s tasting, a multicourse exploration of the menu, plus a few surprises. Recommended: Bird’s Nest, Asian bouillabaisse, Hong Kong Jerry, Thai coffee, Jackie’s Chocolate Bag. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri. Entree prices: $19-$40. Credit cards: A, DC, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking. (star)(star)(star)
RL, 115 E. Chicago Ave., 312-475-1100. American and continental cuisine meet at this clubby restaurant, named after American designer Ralph Lauren. Amid butter-soft leather banquettes, mahogany wainscoting and a gallery’s worth of framed prints and photographs, customers tuck into massive steaks and chops, impressive seafood and throwback dishes such as flamed-tableside steak Diane. Recommended: Oysters, goat cheese tart, filet Rossini, RL burger, Key lime pie. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Sat., brunch Sun. Entree prices: $15-$31. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Valet parking, smoking in bar only. (star)(star)(star)
ROSAL’S, 1154 W. Taylor St., 312-243-2357. The dining room is old-fashioned enough to serve as a movie set and the menu sticks to the tried and true, but when you’re in the mood for family-style Italian food, RoSal’s fits the bill perfectly. Check out the monthly “Big Night” dinners, when the kitchen re-creates the 10-course menu from the cult film. Recommended: Eggplant rotolo, Joe baccala, chicken piccata, veal marsala, tiramisu. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri. Entree prices: $11-$27. Credit cards: A, M, V. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Valet parking, no smoking. (star)(star)
ROSEBUD STEAKHOUSE, 192 E. Walton Pl., 312-397-1000. Undoubtedly the most laid-back link in the sometimes frenetic Rosebud Restaurants chain, this neighborhood steakhouse offers first-rate steaks, surprisingly varied seafood choices and excellent service. And though the atmosphere is low-key, starched linen and tuxedo-clad service indicate the restaurant isn’t cutting back on the finer points of fine dining. Recommended: Southern-fried oysters, bone-in filet, osso buco (Thursdays only), burger, apple-caramel cheesecake. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $16-$37. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking. (star)(star)
SAIKO, 1307 S. Wabash Ave., 312-922-2222. An unassuming exterior hides a dining room awash in color and anime-inspired wall art. Much as he did with Chinese cuisine at next-door Opera, executive chef Paul Wildermuth turns tradition on its ear at this Japanese steakhouse, where familiar Japanese dishes are enhanced with all sorts of creative riffs such as seared ahi matched to foie-gras and pineapple spring rolls. Recommended: Kobe beef roll, tekka don, Yokuzuna steak, ton katsu, yuzu meringue tart. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $17-$99. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking. (star)(star)
SEASONS, Four Seasons Hotel Chicago, 120 E. Delaware Pl., 312-649-2349. One of the most opulent restaurants in the city coddles patrons from the moment they enter the richly appointed dining room. Chef Robert Sulatycky’s French-informed cuisine focuses on pure ingredients and unfussy preparations, but there’s nothing simplistic about the way he layers flavors. Recommended: Halibut cheek in crawfish bisque, duet of veal, rabbit saddle, chocolate pyramid. Open: Dinner, lunch Mon.-Sun., brunch Sun. Entree prices: $28-$36. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Hushed. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet and self-parking available, no smoking. (star)(star)(star)
SOUK, 1552 N. Milwaukee Ave., 773-227-1818. Things are shaking at this Wicker Park Middle-East restaurant, particularly on Wednesdays and Saturdays, when belly dancers entertain the customers. Chef Daniel Wright emphasizes strong flavors and a few Mediterranean influences. Recommended: Mussels charmoula, mouhamara, tagine-roasted quail, lamb chops, baklava. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat. Entree prices: $11-$24. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended on weekends. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, live entertainment Wed.-Sat. (star)(star)
SUSHISAMBA RIO, 504 N. Wells St., 312-595-2300. This Japanese-Peruvian-Brazilian hybrid, based on the New York City original, is as lively as a Carnavale celebration. David Rockwell’s colorful, multi-textured design, which divides the dining room into various theatrical environments, very nearly overshadows the menu, which is dominated by imaginative sushi rolls and other light bites, with an emphasis on presentation. Bar service can be frustrating, probably because there are so many people crammed in there, waiting for a table. Recommended: Sawagani (river crabs), Chi-Town roll, lobster seviche, deep-fried red snapper, passionfruit Pudim. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Sat., brunch Sun. Entree prices: $18-$35. Credit cards: A, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, smoking in lounge only. (star)(star)
SWK, 710 N. Wells St., 312-274-9500. Behind the awkward name (the initials stand for Superior Wells Kitchen) is a surprisingly adept and ambitious restaurant, featuring spiffy decor (the bottle-filled back room is particularly handsome) and sophisticated cooking–seasonal American with a Mediterranean sensibility. Recommended: Lobster consomme, roasted halibut, lamb tenderloin, Purple Haze cheese plate. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri. Entree prices: $22-$30, five-course tasting $70. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, smoking at bar only. (star)(star)
TIZI MELLOUL, 531 N. Wells St., 312-670-4338. The contemporary turns with Middle-East and Mediterranean ingredients are almost as dazzling as the Moroccan decor at this River North restaurant. The dining rooms are still gorgeous, particularly the exotic Crescent Room, but these days, Tizi Melloul (named for a Moroccan mountain) is more than just a pretty face. Recommended: Fire-roasted mussels, merquez-stuffed calamari, tabil-marinated duck, Calabrian fish stew, honey-vanilla flan. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $17-$24. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, smoking in bar. (star)(star)
TRE VIA, 1575 N. Milwaukee Ave., 773-227-7990. Reasonably priced, laid back and modest to a fault, this Wicker Park gem is a real find. The kitchen produces unfussy food that emphasizes clean flavors, served in a dining room more stylish and comfortable (the attractive bar is a highlight) than you’d expect at this price level. The wine list (more than two dozen bottles under $30) is particularly appealing. Recommended: Tre Via pizza, mussels, oven-roasted salmon, prosciutto-wrapped pork. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun. Entree prices: $12-$23. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking. (star)(star)
TSUKI, 1441 W. Fullerton Ave., 773-883-8722. The owners of tiny Ringo sushi bar are the principals of this spacious, contemporary restaurant, done in cobalt-blue tones and industrial-chic decor. The impressively large menu offers small-portion dishes in a tapas-like format; everything’s downsized and inexpensive. There are more sashimi dishes than most restaurants attempt, and plenty of hot plates as well. When in doubt, put yourself in chef Toyoji Hemmi’s hands for a $40 to $50 menu tasting. Recommended: Volcano sushi, aji sashimi, hirame carpaccio, Chaliapin steak. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun. Prices: $4.50-$11.95. Credit cards: A, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, smoking in bar only. (star)(star)(star)
VERMILION, 10 W. Hubbard St., 312-527-4060. No kitschy decor, no droning sitar music, no usual-suspect buffet items; Vermilion eschews cliches in favor of contemporary looks and flavors. The dining room features beat-driven lounge music and blow-up prints by an Indian fashion photographer; the menu mixes Indian and Latin-American styles and ingredients with lively results, though the occasional traditional dishes are executed impressively as well. Recommended: Mysore lamb chops, tamarind ribs, lobster Portuguese, lamb vindaloo. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., lunch Tue.-Fri., brunch Sun. Entree prices: $16-$25. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Valet parking, smoking at bar only. (star)(star)
VIVERE, 71 W. Monroe St., 312-332-4040. Chef Drue Kennedy puts interesting spins on many of his dishes at this veteran Loop restaurant, at the same time respecting his food’s culinary roots. The result is a menu with delights for the traditionalists and adventurers alike; add to that silky smooth service and one of the city’s great wine lists. Recommended: Lobster gnocchi, duck breast with duck-sausage ravioli, lamb loins with tomato-horseradish sauce. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri. Entree prices: $13.95-$32.95. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, smoking in bar only. (star)(star)(star)
ZEALOUS, 419 W. Superior St., 312-475-9112. No longer the jackets-required atmosphere of old (though waiters still are clad in designer suits), Zealous nevertheless maintains lofty culinary standards, even while holding prices to surprisingly low levels. There’s plenty here to indulge the deep-pocketed, chef/owner Michael Taus’ extraordinary tasting menus in particular, but the budget-minded will be pleased by their options as well. Recommended: Sweetbread club sandwich, peach-stuffed rack of pork, grilled tandoori beef with saag paneer, Deconstructed Black Forest cake. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat. Entree prices: $15-$32. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Hushed. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, smoking in bar only. (star)(star)(star)1/2
ZZA ZZO, 551 N. Ogden Ave., 312-733-9000. A lively pan-Latin restaurant with live or deejay music on weekends (and eventually other nights as well), Zza Zzo offers tastes of Cuba, South America and the Caribbean on its menu–plus a Spanish paella once in awhile. The place rarely heats up before 9:30 p.m., but then fills up with dressy professional types, many of them crowded into the cigar-friendly Mojito lounge. Recommended: Shrimp ceviche, sauteed scallops, pollo de maya, banana playa. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat. Entree prices: $13-$29. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Accepted. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, smoking in bar/lounge only. (star)
NORTH/NORTHWEST SUBURBAN
BISTRO KIRKOU, 500 Ela Rd., Lake Zurich, 847-438-0200. Kirk Pepper was introduced to fine dining “as soon as I was able to sit in a chair,” he says, and apparently he was paying attention. His first restaurant has the sort of delightful atmosphere and considerate service touches that turn customers into lifelong friends. Chef Marc Montagna’s menu includes some delicious game options in addition to bistro classics. Recommended: Duck pithivier, onion soup, roasted pheasant, skate wing, almond profiteroles. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Thu.-Fri. Entree prices: $16-$26. Credit cards: A, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended on weekends. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, parking lot, smoking in bar only. (star)(star)
CARLOS’, 429 Temple Ave., Highland Park, 847-432-0770. This contemporary-French bastion of fine dining is beautiful, its downstairs dining room clad in rich cherrywood panels, and marble floors topped with cream-colored carpets in a Cubist-inspired pattern. In the kitchen, Ramiro Velasquez routinely produces exciting, playful and unpredictable dishes so beautifully presented they seem ready for a magazine cover. Open: Dinner Mon., Wed.-Sun. Entree prices: $32-$39.50. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Required. Noise: Hushed. Other: Valet parking, jackets required, no smoking. (star)(star)(star)(star)
CHEF’S STATION, 915 Davis St., Evanston, 847-570-9821. An adorable niche carved into the Davis Street Metra depot, Chef’s Station offers dishes as whimsical and foie gras with guava creme brulee and as traditional as meatloaf, in a charming, warm room with white linen, bright-colored napkins and clever hand-made light fixtures. Recommended: Roasted mussels with frites, Barcelona seafood stew, leg of lamb, Key lime pie. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $16-$26. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, no smoking. (star)(star)
FIO, 566 Chesnut St., Winnetka, 847-441-4600. A French-American spot that still makes room on the menu for quesadillas and fried calamari, FIO mixes old-fashioned charm with contemporary touches, both in decor and cuisine. The inside joke is that the name is an acronym for “fork it over,” but with food this capable, you probably won’t mind. Recommended: Mushroom gnocchi, calamari, venison tenderloin, cioppino. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., lunch Tue.-Fri., brunch Sat.-Sun. Entree prices: $14-$30. Credit cards: A, DC, M, V. Reservations: Recommended on weekends. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible; parking lot; no smoking. (star)(star)
LE TITI DE PARIS, 1015 W. Dundee Rd., Arlington Heights, 847-506-0222. Pierre Pollin has retired after 30 years, but this stellar northwest-suburban restaurant hasn’t lost a new step under new owner Michael Maddox–which isn’t surprising, given that Maddox has been Le Titi’s chef de cuisine for the last 12 years. Since taking over in July, the Maddoxes have let a few American touches into the menu, and added a few lower-priced entrees, but otherwise it’s the same superlative contemporary-French experience. Recommended: Tart nouvelle, lobster-crab sausage, lamb-quail duo, salmon “Pierre Pollin,” Citrus Paradise. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., lunch Thu.-Fri. Entree prices: $19-$31; six-course menu $66. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Hushed. Other: Wheelchair accessible, no smoking. (star)(star)(star)1/2
LE VICHYSSOIS, 220 W. Ill. Hwy. 120, Lakemoor, 815-385-8221. A bit of a haul for most Chicagoans, but what you spend on gas you’ll save on wine, as Le Vichyssois has what might be the most modestly priced wine list in the area. The real draw, however, is Bernard Cretier’s exquisite French dishes, always in perfect balance. The sauces are so good you’ll want to take them home, and guess what? You can. Recommended: Asparagus flan, smoked-salmon terrine, veal kidneys, salmon en croute. Open: Dinner Wed.-Sun. Entree prices: $17.25-$34.50. Credit cards: DC, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Hushed. Other: Wheelchair accessible, parking lot. (star)(star)(star)
MIRAMAR, 301 Waukegan Ave., Highwood, 847-433-1078. Reclaimed furniture, glazed subway tile and artistically distressed surfaces give Gabriel Viti’s hotspot the look of a gone-to-seed pre-Cuban hangout; but in terms of food, the only Latin options are mojitos, Hemingway daiquiris and a Cuban sandwich. Otherwise, it’s all French bistro, capably executed for the most part. A bit short on “wow” dishes, apart from excellent skatewing and bargain-priced lamb chops, but solid. The no-reservations policy ensures you’ll spend a little time at the cute zinc bar. Recommended: Brandade, lamb chops, skatewing, chocolate mousse. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Sat. Entree prices: $17.50-$22.50. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Not accepted. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking. (star)(star)
PETE MILLER’S SEAFOOD & PRIME STEAK, 412 N. Milwaukee Ave., Wheeling, 847-243-3700. Even at 375 seats, there’s not always enough room at this steakhouse for everyone. The prime steaks are excellent, but more memorable are such touches as lower-priced menu items, live no-cover jazz and blues and kid-friendly features. The original Pete Miller’s in Evanston is smaller, but offers the same menu. Recommended: Seared tuna, crab fingers, beef Wellington, bleu-cheese ribeye, Death by Chocolate. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $13.95-$32.95. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, complimentary valet parking. (star)(star)
SAN GABRIEL MEXICAN CAFE, 2535 Waukegan Rd., Bannockburn, 847-940-0200. The well-traveled Dudley Nieto brings fine-dining Mexican to the North Shore via this colorful restaurant, tucked into the Bannockburn Green shopping center. The decor may be a bit cliched, but fresh-lime margaritas, homemade tortillas and tableside-preparation guacamole boost San Gabriel far beyond the level of most strip-mall Mexican places. Recommended: Grilled octopus, tuna ceviche, red snapper Veracruzana, huitlacoche-stuffed chicken breast. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Sat. Entree prices: $13.95-$19.95. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended weekends. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, smoking in bar only. (star)(star)
TRIO ATELIER, 1566 Hinman Ave., Evanston, 847-733-8746. Eleven-year-old Trio has again reinvented itself, this time as an Atelier (an artist’s workshop) with a high-concept decor that includes bags of salt stacked everywhere and an approachable, down-to-earth menu by Dale Levitski. Small, medium and large plates offer a parade of tempting nibbles, from a simple and capable Provencal tart to a “flight of salt” that’s more of a self-directed science experiment. Most of the dishes excel (especially Mary E. McMahon’s scrumptious desserts), all of them are fun and prices are considerably lower than they were during Trio’s early days. Recommended: Green Egg and Ham, shellfish vol-au-vent, duck confit, roasted poussin, lemongrass-ginger ice-cream float. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun. Entree prices: $16-$25. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Valet parking, no smoking. (star)(star)(star)
WOO LAE OAK, 3201 Algonquin Rd., Rolling Meadows, 847-870-9910. Korean barbecue is the specialty at this nattily appointed restaurant; most of the tables are equipped with built-in, gas-fired grills for tableside cooking by customers or, more often, waiters. Originally located in downtown Chicago, this outpost of a Seoul-based Korean chain has found even more popularity by moving to the northwest suburbs. Recommended: Yook hwe, dumplings, dae ji gui, barbecued wild boar. Open: Dinner, lunch Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $12.95-$22.95. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended on weekends. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, parking lot, smoking in bar only. (star)(star)
