A roundup of restaurants recently reviewed by restaurant critic Phil Vettel.
302 WEST (star)(star)(star)1/2 302 W. State St., Geneva, 630-232-9302. Founding chef and owner Joel Findlay succumbed to cancer last year, but his lofty standards are being maintained by his wife, Katherine, and former protege Jeremy Lycan, now running the kitchen. Lycan brings a muscular style and a wider flavor range to 302’s food, but the things that made this restaurant great–a devotion to fresh fish and seasonal produce, abetted by sharp and intuitive service–remain. Save room for dessert; there are about two dozen offerings daily, with absolutely no wrong choices. Recommended: Squab potstickers, Cajun-spiced venison, halibut with asparagus-cream sauce, prosciutto-wrapped monkfish. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat. Entree prices: $27.50-$36.50. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, no smoking.
ALDENTE CAFE (star) 1615 N. Clybourn Ave., 312-587-0055. The food is unadventurous but reliable at this Italian restaurant, which pairs a warm, even homey dining room with a late-night lounge upstairs. Larry Pierce (ex-Green Room) oversees a simple, budget-conscious menu. Recommended: Scallops with pesto, fish salad, pork chop, tilapia quattro stagione. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., brunch Sat.-Sun. Entree prices: $13-$29. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Accepted. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Valet parking.
BLUE WATER GRILL (star)(star) 520 N. Dearborn St., 312-777-1400. This new NYC import has a lot going for it, including excellent raw and sushi bars, some creative cooking by chef Dirk Flanigan and wonderful desserts by Elissa Narow. The dark and sultry interior comprises three dining rooms, sushi bar and a lounge that features nightly jazz. Recommended: Tortilla oysters, Himalayan rock tuna, chilled shellfish castle, halibut T-bone, berry crumble. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Sat., brunch Sun. Entree prices: $19-$49. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, smoking in lounge only.
BRASSERIE JO (star)(star) 59 W. Hubbard St., 312-595-0800. Closing in on its 10th birthday (this fall ), this charming bistro has lost some of the wow factor that accompanied its premiere, but it remains a very solid performer. Some of the dishes that defined the restaurant in 1995 are still on the menu, and still excellent. Recommended: Onion tart Uncle Hansi, tart flambe, steak tartare, shrimp bag, profiteroles. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $13-$26. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking.
CANOE CLUB (star) 15200 S. 94th Ave., Orland Park, 708-460-9611. This massive restaurant works hard to re-create an island atmosphere, tricking out its interiors with a 25-foot waterfall, soaring palm trees and a 3,000-gallon shark tank. The kitchen, led by chef David Kile, has plenty of island flavor of its own, importing South Pacific seafood and giving a hint of sweetness to nearly every dish. So far, it’s working in a big way: The restaurant is packed on weekends, running wait times to 90 minutes or more and making reservations an absolute necessity. Recommended: Ahi tuna nachos, Island chicken wings, opaka-paka with passionfruit glaze, macadamia-crusted mahi-mahi. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Sat. Entree prices: $11.75-$.24.75. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, complimentary valet parking.
CAPRI (star) 12307 S. Harlem Ave., Palos Heights, 708-671-1657. Big portions of well-made Italian classics are the hallmarks of this neighborhood spot, a direct descendent of the original Capri (long gone) in Berwyn. Brawny appetizers alert diners to pace themselves; entrees include soup or salad and the desserts are hefty as well. Recommended: Calamari Capri, steamed mussels, linguini carbonara, pollo Francese Kelsey’s Way (just ask), tiramisu. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., lunch Tue.-Fri. Entree prices: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended on weekends. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, parking lot.
COURTRIGHT’S (star)(star)(star)(star) 8989 Archer Ave., Willow Springs, 708-839-8000. After nine years of critical acclaim as one of the best restaurants around, the owners of Courtright’s act as though they still have something to prove, which is no doubt why this restaurant consistently delivers on such a high level. A superlative front-room staff makes the dining experience blissfully seamless, making it easy to focus on chef Jonathan Harootunian’s inventive cuisine. Harootunian works magic in the kitchen, whether turning humble ingredients into heavenly creations or showing a deft hand with luxury items such as foie gras, whose presentation changes daily. The award-winning and fairly priced wine list is overseen by Bill Courtright and sommelier Brian Egebrecht, an unerring guide. Recommended: Roasted quail with lentils, foie gras, scallop in citrus-licorice broth, oxtail pot pie. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun. Entree prices: $25-$34. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, smoking in bar only.
THE DINING ROOM (star)(star)(star)1/2 Ritz-Carlton Hotel, 160 E. Pearson St., 312-573-5223. New chef Kevin Hickey is proving to be a capable successor to the departed Sarah Stegner, offering French-informed American cooking with an artist’s eye and a gastronome’s heart. The menu consists of several prix-fixe menus, most of which offer choices in all courses (but substitutions are graciously accommodated even in the top-of-the-line chef’s menu). Pacing could be tighter, but you really have to dig deep to find serious complaints about this operation. Recommended: Scallops Benedict, house-smoked salmon, foie-gras composition, veal with artichoke-sweetbread ragout. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., brunch Sun. Prices: Prix-fixe menus $70-$110. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Hushed. Other: Wheelchair accessible, discounted valet parking, no smoking.
FRONTERA GRILL (star)(star)(star) 445 N. Clark St., 312-661-1434. Hard to believe that this restaurant turned 18 in March; Frontera always seems fresh and innovative and is surpassed in its field only by Topolobampo, Bayless’ more formal Mexican dining room next door. New to the mix is a raw-bar menu offering exclusively sustainable seafood, including excellent oysters and ceviches. But everything on the menu is terrific. Recommended: Ceviche de calamari, sea scallops in red-peanut mole, pistachio flan. Open: Dinner and lunch Tue.-Sat. Entree prices: $14.95-$24.95. Reservations: Same-day reservations accepted. Other: Wheelchair accessible.
THE GROTTO (star)(star) 1030 N. State St., 312-280-1005. A steakhouse in a neighborhood chock-full of them, The Grotto is nevertheless worthy of attention for its good looks, capable waitstaff and the solid cooking of chef Abraham Aguirre, who cranks the same Italian-American specialties that marked his tenure at the original Giannotti’s and Harry Caray’s. Good steaks and chops and one of the city’s best versions of Chicken Vesuvio are matched by a surprisingly deep dessert selection. Recommended: Carpaccio, grilled calamari, red snapper oreganato, lamb chops, chocolate-chip cheesecake. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $14.95-$33.95. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended on weekends. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, discounted parking (with validation).
JP CHICAGO (star)(star) 901 W. Weed St., 312-337-2001. Step into this artful bistro and you might think yourself transported to Paris, or at the very least to a movie set. But there’s little bistro purity in chef/partner Jason Paskewitz’ menu, which bears testimony to culinary influence far and wide. Nevertheless, the food is uncomplicated, good and affordable, augmented by a modestly priced wine list, and isn’t that what a bistro is all about? Recommended: Baked shrimp with feta cheese, foie gras with poached figs, roasted halibut, stuffed trout. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat. Entree prices: $17-$28. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended weekends. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Valet parking, smoking at bar only.
KAZE (star)(star) 2032 W. Roscoe St., 773-327-4860. What distinguishes this inviting 40-seat sushi spot from its myriad competitors is its specialty nigiri sushi, which are dressed with complementary sauces and toppings (banana peppers and black pepper with hamachi, enoki mushrooms and truffle oil with salmon), freeing diners from the tired old wasabi-soy dunk. Those, along with similarly conceived sashimi specials and well-executed traditional Japanese cooked items, make up the bulk of the menu. A few entrees–black cod and shrimp with almonds and chocolate sauce, venison in a sea of curry sauce–are fusion efforts that don’t yet succeed. Applaud the effort, then get back to the sushi. Recommended: Bluefin tuna nigiri, tuna loin sashimi, octopus sashimi, seafood hot pot. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $13-$15. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, no smoking.
LA PETITE FOLIE (star)(star) 1504 E. 55th St., 773-493-1394. Close by the University of Chicago in Hyde Park, this white-tablecloth dining room is a warm and inviting oasis from the busy streets just steps away. The compact French menu is nevertheless brimming with good choices, and the budget-constrained will love the early-bird dinner and prix-fixe lunch options. Recommended: Venison pate, pan-seared scallops, pheasant breast. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., lunch Tue.-Fri. Entree prices: $16-$28. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, free parking lot, no smoking.
LE FRANCAIS (star)(star)(star)(star) 269 S. Milwaukee Ave., Wheeling, 847-541-7470. Roland Liccioni, who ruled this kitchen through most of the 1990s, is back, cooking with the same vigor that marked his glory days at this temple of fine-dining. His menu is a stunning mix of old favorites and new creations, but his style is so light that only veteran patrons will be able to tell which is which. Abetted by a veteran front-room crew that brings a relaxed, unintimidating air to the experience, Liccioni has restored the magic to Milwaukee Avenue. Recommended: Double duck consomme, osetra-caviar gelee with foie-gras terrine, scallop cake, poached veal, raspberry souffle. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Tue.-Fri. Entree prices: $35; seven-course dinner $90. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Hushed. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
MON AMI GABI (star)(star)(star) 2300 N. Lincoln Park West, 773-348-8886; 260 Oakbrook Center, Oak Brook, 630-472-1900. The city original and its west-suburban clone are irresistible bistros that ooze Gallic charm. Cute touches include the paper sleeves that protect the crusty baguettes and the rolling wine cart that dispenses by-the-glass pours. But the real draw is the solid food, from plats du jour such as stuffed quail over frisee to the various incarnations of steak frites. Recommended: Scallops gratinee, trout grenobloise, bacon-wrapped pork loin. Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun. (no lunch at Chicago location). Entree prices: $15.95-$29.95. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking available.
OSTERIA VIA STATO (star)(star) 620 N. State St., 312-642-8450. “Trust the chef” is a common-enough practice in fine-dining circles, but this restaurant introduces the concept at a much lower price level. For about $36, diners select an entree and not much more: Executive chef Rick Tramonto and chef de cuisine David DiGregorio do the rest, sending out a parade of antipasti, from silken slabs of cured salmon to crisp wood-grilled radicchio with parmesan cheese (and seconds are encouraged). These are followed by a pair of pastas (pappardelle in meat ragu if you’re lucky) before the entree arrives. Desserts and drinks optional; there’s a fine all-Italian wine list offering bottles, quartinos (250 ml) and several fixed-price “Just Bring Me Wine” options. Recommended: Beef shortribs, polpettone, chicken Mario. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Sat. Prices: Dinner $35.95, lunch $17.95. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, smoking in bar only.
PRAIRIE GRASS CAFE (star)(star)(star) 601 Skokie Blvd., Northbrook, 847-205-4433. When Sarah Stegner and George Bumbaris left the Ritz-Carlton Dining Room to create a “simpler” restaurant, I doubt anyone anticipated just how serious they were. The modestly priced menu offers such well-worn (albeit expertly fashioned) standards as chicken-liver pate and spicy chicken wings. But everything tastes great, the bustling dining room has a homey Midwestern feel, there’s good, warm bread on the table and service is cheerful and eager. What’s not to like? Recommended: Tuna rolls, crabcake, shepherd’s pie, flat-iron steak, apple pie. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., lunch Tue.-Fri., brunch Sat.-Sun. Entree prices: $12-$28. Credit cards: DC, DS, M, V. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Other: Wheelchair accessible, parking lot, smoking in bar only.
ROOM 22 RESTAURANT AND LOUNGE (star)(star) 22 E. Hubbard St., 312-527-4900. In nightclubby surroundings highlighted by serious art, chef Joe Rossi dishes up an appealing mix of small-plate (but hardly low-cal) dishes, listed on the one-page menu by intensity of flavor. Start with a light bite such as Serrano ham with deviled eggs, move on to crabmeat-stuffed piquillo peppers and finish with a robust game meat. Interesting wines by the glass are pricey; the $40 “mixed bottle” option (three 250 ml-pours of selected wines) is a better deal. Recommended: Duo of salmon tartare and sashimi tuna, scallop souffle, duck with butternut-squash risotto. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat. Entree prices: $22-$30, Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Accepted. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, smoking in lounge only.
VIE (star)(star)(star) 4471 Lawn Ave., Western Springs, 708-246-2082. Chef/owner Paul Virant spent some time cooking in Blackbird (among other restaurants) and there’s a bit of Blackbird in Vie, his first solo venture–both in the seasonality Virant brings to his menu and in the less-than-ideal creature comforts of the dining room. But Virant’s food triumphs over all, though eager service and a nicely chosen and judiciously priced wine list are big pluses as well. Recommended: Pork Milanese, quail with arugula and dates, roasted fluke with lentils, chocolate financier. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat. Entree prices: $19-$28. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, parking lot, no smoking.
X/O (star)(star)(star) 3441 N. Halsted St., 773-348-9696. Inasmuch as the dining world has gone mad for small plates, restaurateurs should visit X/O to see how it should be done. Bob Zrenner’s creative plates manage to be undersized and easily shareable, vivid without being showy and are unfailingly interesting. Amy Lewis’ enticing wine list is cliche-free and fairly priced, and Jordan Rappaport’s desserts end each meal on a rousing note. Recommended: Crabcake duo, spicy rock-shrimp salad, ribeye steak, Chocolate Orgasm. Open: Dinner Wed.-Mon., brunch Sun. Prices: Small plates, $6-$13.50. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Valet parking, late-night menu.
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Ratings key:
OUTSTANDING (star)(star)(star)(star)
EXCELLENT (star)(star)(star)
VERY GOOD (star)(star)
GOOD (star)
Reviews are based on no fewer than two visits. The reviewer makes every effort to remain anonymous. Meals are paid for by the Tribune.
