When Martin Flores immigrated to the U.S. from a small town near Atotonilco in Mexico’s Jalisco state, he found his future in pizza–hardly his hometown’s staple. But after decades of dough, Flores recently opened a Lakeview bar-restaurant focusing on his home state’s most famous export: tequila.
Why the switch? “I love tequilas,” Flores says. “I’ve been drinking tequila for the last eight or nine years.”
“I’m proud of my heritage,” he adds.
Five years in the making, Agave Bar & Grill came to life in a space with large windows that look across at one of Flores’ four Chicago’s Pizza locations, known for their quirky camcorder-quality commercials as much as their late-night delivery.
Though tequila and antojitos are a departure from thin-crust and deep-dish, 15 years with Chicago’s Pizza–and 10 years before that working with the original owners of Giordano’s–has taught Flores what works. And his attention to detail shows he’s on the right path with Agave.
Inside: Neutral tones open up an otherwise narrow space, with tallboy tables and cowhide-covered banquettes opposite a 25-foot bar and open kitchen. Many items in the space came from Mexico, including the copper basins in the bathrooms, and the overall aesthetic combines old with new.
Under foot, onyx and marble pieces create a floor pattern modeled after the designs of traditional Mexican ponchos. Lively scenes depicted by local artist and fellow Jalisco native Mauricio Zapata dot the exposed brick walls. The attention to detail in the maguey (agave plant) design on cabinets behind the bar, raw marble mocajetes for serving guacamole, and beautiful tortilla holders is remarkable.
Drinks: There are more than 50 tequilas from which to choose, so the spirit naturally takes center stage in specialty drinks and flights. Sip the crisp, refreshing Mojito Costeno, made with Chinaco Blanco tequila instead of rum ($8); the classic Margarita Agave with Patron silver tequila and fresh lime juice ($7); or a flight of infusions such as vanilla and pineapple ($12).
Food: The menu is fairly limited and a tad pricey, but that’s because every dish is made daily with fresh ingredients and a touch of flair. The housemade chips feature a long cut of tortilla, and the guacamole with chunks of avocados was creamy and delicious ($6.95). One bite of the sopes (corn pastries topped with creamy bean sauce, salsa verde, anejo cheese, shredded beef; $6.50) made us feel like we were back on vacation in Puerto Vallarta.
Ceviche rojo ($9) comes in a pretty martini glass and features fresh, succulent shrimp and bay scallops in a sweet-spicy fire-roasted tomato broth. Shaved cucumber, avocado and buttery crackers round out an appetizer that’s also perfect for a light dinner.
We sunk our teeth into a juicy, tender prime rib-eye carne asada ($23.95), but we were really blown away by the poblano and cheese tamal served on the side. Our squeals of delight meant everyone at the table had to have a taste. A black-bean mash rounded out the entree. The vegetarian-friendly chile relleno ($13.95) also was a hit.
This weekend, look for a special menu featuring chile- and tequila-rubbed lamb shank plus Frida Kahlo-inspired cocktails to commemorate Mexican Independence Day; celebrations begin Friday.
Service: Incredibly friendly, attentive and knowledgeable. Our server took drink and food orders for our group of five all night, making suggestions or explaining dishes when needed. He was calm and polite when sorting out our request to pay on several cards.
Crowd: A mix of couples, groups of friends, and parents sharing a meal with their adult children. Due to the nature of the space, the height of seats and the prominent bar, Agave is relaxed and upbeat.
Bottom line: Some entrees are a bit expensive, and cocktails quickly add to the tab, but the dishes were so rich, flavorful and authentic that we’d be back in a beat of the corazon.
INSIDE
Agave Bar & Grill
3115 N. Lincoln Ave.773-404-1800
———-
KMBUDELL@TRIBUNE.COM
