Art Smith’s guests stand in the doorway looking as awestruck as The Beatles on their first trip to the Maharishi’s ashram.
“Did you think it would be ordinary?” exclaims a delighted Smith as a cloud of exotic aromas escapes past him into the streets of Kenwood-Hyde Park. Inside, sonorous sitars play amid splendor fit for a raja, and brightly colored pennants flutter outside in the evening breeze.
As Oprah Winfrey’s longtime personal chef, the author of two (soon to be three) very successful cookbooks, and the mastermind behind an exciting new Chicago restaurant, Table, opening next spring, Smith obviously can do it all in the kitchen.
But even for him, the foods of India and Pakistan are a little outside his comfort zone. Two things inspire the evening’s theme: one, an exciting piece of newfangled kitchen technology–Smith’s brand-new stainless-steel tandoor oven; and the other, the opportunity to learn to cook South Asian style at the side of his friend and house guest, Pakistani-born chef Naushab Ahmed.
“We are more than friends–we’re brothers,” says Smith of Ahmed. They have been close since both were fledgling foodies at Florida State University two decades ago.
Smith was delighted to have Ahmed visiting from New York, and the two could think of no better way to catch up than to cook for a crowd. It was time to throw a party chez Smith.
And what a party it is. Smith’s friend Debi Lily (owner of Oprah’s favored party planner, A Perfect Event) has created the karma by drenching Smith’s apartment in 500 hot-pink, chartreuse, flame-orange and dark red roses, along with hundreds of miniature calla lilies, coxcomb and orchids. Gold-leafed glass votives softly light the rooms, illuminating the vibrant colors of paintings by Smith’s life partner, Jesus Ramon Salgueiro. Through the bustling indoor kitchen and down the porch steps, guests proceed merrily to Smith’s “other kitchen”–a sprawling, incredibly well-equipped area designed by AiS Construction in the building’s common garden. Broad bolts of Indian fabrics hang from the porches and drift into the tree branches above an array of outdoor cooking technology that would bring tears to the eyes of any back-yard Weber griller.
Smith’s friends call him “Feed the World Art” and, surveying the guests mingling over their passion fruit margaritas, one can assume that “the world” rarely declines the invitation. Juan Salas-Araya, the consul general of Costa Rica, is here, chatting with handsome Andre Walker, Oprah’s hairdresser and interior decorator. They enthuse over the crisp little chicken samosas in a tangy mint chutney sauce, while State Sen. Iris Martinez wanders the garden, greeting constituents between bites. “This beats an evening meeting any day,” she says, laughing. Syrupy pineapple soup in delicate cups is passed through the crowd, insulation against the fire of the spices to come, and all the while, stacks of savory Indian naan bread keep appearing from the maws of that new tandoor oven.
Australian-born chef Jon-Antony is the man on the spot at the oven. Armed with a temperature-reading laser gun, he occasionally points it into the tandoor to make sure it remains a toasty 650 degrees. Jon-Antony takes hunks of naan dough and sticks them to the side of the hot oven until the bread puffs up crispy and caramel-brown. Then he yanks the naan from the oven’s wall with what appear to be 4-foot-long knitting needles, and sprinkles the piping-hot sheets with salts flavored with hardwood, citrus or Tahitian vanilla. Saving room for dinner is becoming a real issue.
Standing on the back steps of the four-flat Eden, Smith proposes a toast. “To my friendship with Naushab that has lasted over 20 years,” he says, raising his glass. “Welcome home, and now it’s time to eat.”
He isn’t kidding. Inside, the kitchen island is overflowing. The sprawling menu includes 12 different selections, some sinus-searing hot, others cool and milky. Though Ahmed usually cooks the meat dishes of his hometown, Lahore, like any great chef he is an inspired thief and includes Hindu vegetarian dals and karis from northern India, as well as seafood. His favorite is the shrimp dish. “It was my father’s recipe,” says Ahmed, whose late father, a business executive and poet, was also a great amateur cook. Ahmed’s cousin Seemi perfected the chapli kebabs, his sister Nabila provided the lentil and dessert recipes, and the fiery chicken dish was the specialty of Ahmed’s late mother, Amrita. “She was very famous for it,” he says proudly. Ahmed loves cooking with family. “It builds traditions.”
“Food and family. It’s a common thread,” says Smith. He says that a lot. He sees food, and more importantly, meals, as the solution to a host of problems. “If we all could enjoy each other’s food, we would have a lot more peace,” Smith says.
He and Salgueiro co-founded Common Threads, a charity that employs volunteer chefs to teach kids to cook. Common Threads has grown to seven locations around Chicago and now serves more than 1,000 children. “I always have children at my parties,” Smith says, watching happily as a guest parades Smith’s 5-month-old neighbor, Marcus, around the kitchen.
Finally the desserts appear, an array of offerings including a Pakistani rice pudding called kheer, and khulfi, an Indian ice cream. Then dishes of candy-covered fennel seeds are placed on the tables, and the conversation turns to rapturous reminiscences of previous meals here. “Giving parties is addictive,” Smith admits, laughing and bear-hugging his departing guests. “Food is love.”
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DINNER BY CHEF NAUSHAB AHMED, CHEF REY VILLALOBOS AND CHEF ROGER HERRING
COCKTAILS
Lychee martinis
Passion fruit margaritas
Guava cosmopolitans
Beer and wine
APPETIZERS
Mini cocktail samosas with mango chipotle sauce w Mini chicken tikkas* served on small pieces of naan with mint chutney w Eggplant bhartha on cucumber rounds*
Pineapple rasam in shot glasses
DINNER
Biryani
Amrita’s chicken with karha masala
Dahi kari with vegetables
Fish karahi wiith green masala*
Dum chapali keab
Short ribs osso bucco with Moghul spices
Racks of lamb marinated in yogurt and spices
Bashir’s Lahori shrimp
Nabila Dal’s bitter gourd salad
Beetroot raita
Assorted pickles and chutneys
DESSERTS
Shahi tukrey w Pistachio khulfi w Kheer w Honey balls asmalia
MINI CHICKEN TIKKAS
Makes 8 to 10 skewers
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
1 teaspoon coriander seeds
4 cloves peeled garlic
2-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and coarsely chopped
2 cups plain yogurt
1/2 teaspoon of red chili powder (available at most Indian stores)
1 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons water
4 boneless, skinless chicken breast halves, cut into 1 1/4 to 1 1/2-inch cubes
Skewers for grilling
2 tablespoons of canola oil
Mint chutney (for serving)
Naan (for serving)
1. Put the cumin and coriander seeds in a small, heavy saute pan. Toast over medium heat, stirring continuously until lightly browned and fragrant, about 1 minute. Transfer to a mini food processor or coffee/spice grinder, and grind to a fine powder. Transfer to medium bowl.
2. Crush ajawain (carom seeds) and kasoori methi (fenugreek leaves) with a mortar and pestle (or coarsely grind, pulsing on and off in the spice grinder used in Step 1). Add to the cumin/coriander seed powder, along with the salt. Mix in the gram flour. Add the water to make a paste.
3. Line a sheet pan with parchment paper and lightly spray with non-stick vegetable oil. Smear both sides of the fish with the spice and gram flour mixture (about 1 1/2 teaspoons per fillet). Transfer to the prepared pan until all pieces are coated.
4. Heat 2-3 tablespoons of oil in a saute pan over medium-high heat. Fry fish in batches, until golden brown and crisp, about 3 minutes per side, adding additional oil as needed. Keep warm in a low-temperature oven.
5. Before serving, mix green onions, cilantro and chili pepper. Place a small heap on each piece of fish, garnish with julienned ginger and a drizzle of lemon juice. Serve hot, adding additional lemon juice, if desired.
FISH KARAHI WITH GREEN MASALA
Serves 8
1 teaspoon of cumin seeds
1 teaspoon of coriander seeds
1 teaspoon of ajawain (carom seeds, available at most Indian stores)
1 teaspoon of kasoori methi (dried fenugreek leaves, available at most Indian stores)
1 teaspoon of salt
1/4 cup gram flour (available at most Indian stores)
2 tablespoons water
8 pieces firm white fish (6-8 ounces each), such as tilapia
Canola oil for frying
1 cup sliced green onions
1 cup lightly packed cilantro leaves
1/2 of a small green chili pepper, seeded and thinly sliced
2 inch piece fresh ginger, peeled, and sliced into thin julienne matchsticks
Juice of 1 lemon
1. Put the cumin and coriander seeds in a small, heavy saute pan. Toast over medium heat, stirring continuously until lightly browned and fragrant, about 1 minute. Transfer to a mini food processor or coffee/spice grinder. Add the garlic and ginger and grind to a smooth paste.
2. Place yogurt in a non-reactive bowl, such as Pyrex. Stir in the spice-garlic-ginger seasoning paste, red chili powder and salt. Add the water to thin the mixture. Mix in the chicken, cover and marinate in the refrigerator 6 hours or overnight. Stir the mixture a few times while marinating to ensure it is well coated.
3. Heat a grill to medium-high heat. Thread the chicken pieces onto skewers. Transfer to the grill, cooking 1-2 minutes. Brush alternately with the yogurt mixture and canola oil. Continue cooking and basting until chicken is no longer pink inside, 8-10 minutes. Serve immediately with mint chutney and freshly baked naan.
EGGPLANT BHARTA ON CUCUMBER ROUNDS
Makes 3 to 4 cups
3 tablespoons canola oil
2 medium eggplants (about 12-14 ounces each)
1 medium onion, chopped
1 medium tomato, chopped
1/2 green pepper, seeded and diced
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
3 or 4 curry leaves (available in most Indian shops)
1/2 to 1 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons plain yogurt
3 tablespoons chopped cilantro
1-2 medium unpeeled cucumbers, washed, and sliced into thin rounds
1. Lightly coat the eggplants with a drizzle of the oil. Transfer to a sheet pan and roast in a 400-degree oven until skin is soft and wrinkles, about 45 minutes to 1 hour (or for a smoky flavor, alternately grill until skin is blistered). Cool. Peel away skin, cutting away any skin that adheres to the eggplant flesh with the tip of a knife. Discard skin and slice each eggplant into several long sections. Cut or scrape away most of the seeds, discarding seeds. Coarsely chop eggplant and set aside.
2. Heat remaining oil in a medium saute pan over medium heat. Add onions, cooking until translucent, 4-5 minutes. Add tomatoes, green pepper, cumin seeds, and fry another 2 minutes. Add the curry leaves, cooking until fragrant, about 1 minute. Cool.
3. Combine eggplant wiith the onion/tomato mixture. Thoroughly mix in 1/2 teaspoon salt.
4. Before serving, remove curry leaves, if desired, and mix eggplant mixture with the yogurt and cilantro. Taste and adjust seasoning, adding additional salt, if desired. Serve in bowls at room temperature with cucumber rounds. Note: This goes equally well with toasted pita.
