A roundup of restaurants recently reviewed by restaurant critic Phil Vettel.
DAVID BURKE’S PRIMEHOUSE (star)(star) 616 N. Rush St., 312-660-6000. A steakhouse that dry-ages its prime beef in a salt-lined room below the dining room, Primehouse appeals to the younger steak-lover with hip decor and creative culinary items from its namesake founding chef. Steaks typically spend 28 days in the aging room, but from time to time a 40-day steak might be available for a price upgrade. Recommended: Surf-and-turf dumplings, porterhouse for one, “rack of cookies.” Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., breakfast and lunch Mon.-Fri., brunch Sat.-Sun. Entree prices: $22-$42. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
ENTOURAGE (star)(star) 1301 American Lane, Schaumburg, 847-995-9400. The cocktail-shaker-shaped front window is a clue to how seriously this sophisticated restaurant takes its beverage program, from its not-the-usual-suspects wine list to a cocktail list that includes $75-plus “luxury” blends (in a keepsake, hand-painted glass). But Entourage is serious about its food, an approachable, contemporary-American menu. There’s more solid execution than originality, but most dishes work fine. Recommended: Tuna tataki, macadamia tilapia, white-chocolate cheesecake. Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $15.95-$42.95. Credit cards: A, DC, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended weekends. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, smoking in lounge only.
GINGER ASIAN BISTRO (star)(star) 15700 S. Harlem Ave., Orland Park, 708-633-1818. This south-suburban surprise has a chain-restaurant look (it’s a converted Damon’s Grill) and a chain-sounding name, but forget the packaging. Inside, you’ll find intriguing, generally well executed Asian fusion cuisine by chef Kelvin Cheung (whose father owns Chinatown’s Phoenix restaurant). Sometimes the chef’s ambition exceeds his grasp, but his occasional flashes of brilliance, as in his startling daikon ravioli, make the trip worthwhile. Recommended: Thai-curry crabcakes, five-spice calamari, lamb chops, ginger creme brulee. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sun., lunch Tue.-Fri., dim sum Sat.-Sun. Entree prices: $12-$23. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended weekends. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, no smoking.
GRIDLEY’S BAR & GRILLE (star)(star) 4868 Ill. Hwy. 83, Long Grove, 847-478-3663. A reliable American restaurant that makes the extra effort, whether it be smoking its own meats and fish (in a detached smokehouse on the restaurant property) or touches such as complimentary valet parking. This isn’t going to become the northwest suburbs’ Next Big Thing, but for uncomplicated, good-value eating, it’s tough to beat. Recommended: Apple-onion soup, smokehouse chili, crabmeat-topped grouper, prime rib. Open: Dinner and lunch Mon.-Sun. Entree prices: $11.95-$33.95. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended weekends. Noise: Conversation-challenged. Other: Wheelchair accessible, complimentary valet parking, smoking in lounge only.
NICHE (star)(star)(star) 14 S. Third St., Geneva, 630-262-1000. Once there was a stellar contemporary-American restaurant in the Fox Valley called 302 West. When that restaurant was sold in spring 2006, its chef, wine directors and most of the other staffers banded together to open this cozy 72-seater a half-year later. Fans of the old 302 will find plenty of similarities in Niche’s scrupulously seasonal menu and unerring seafood preparations, but this impressive newcomer is definitely a new chapter for chef Jeremy Lycan, manager/sommelier Jody Richardson, and crew. Recommended: Smoked sturgeon, grouper with crawfish, roasted duck breast, chocolate assortment. Open: Dinner Tue.-Sat. Entree prices: $27-$32. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, no smoking.
NOMI (star)(star)(star)1/2 Park Hyatt Chicago, 800 N. Michigan Ave., 312-239-4030. This showpiece of the Hyatt hotel group is a very expensive restaurant, yet time and again Christophe David’s exquisite French cuisine and NoMI’s luxuriously appointed interior justify the tariff. NoMI’s dramatic seventh-floor views of the historic Water Tower and the surrounding cityscape are icing on the cake. Recommended: Truffle tart, veal loin with sweetbreads, turbot, Majari chocolate dome. Open: Dinner and breakfast Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Sat., brunch Sun. Entree prices: $36-$50. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
RHAPSODY (star)(star)(star) 65 E. Adams St., 312-786-9911. Rhapsody is a restaurant attached to Symphony Center that has quietly become one of the best fine-dining options in the Loop, thanks to the unique stylings of Chef Doran Payne, who insinuates the flavors of his native St. Lucia into his cooking. He makes liberal use of fruit, for example, though the food reflects Payne’s European training more than anything. Built as part of Symphony Center, Rhapsody serves first and foremost to feed the CSO subscribers enroute to performances, but Payne’s food makes Rhapsody a worthwhile destination even when–make that especially when–the performance space is dark. Recommended: Duck pastrami salad, halibut with passionfruit butter, chocolate Symphony. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sat., lunch Mon.-Fri. Entree prices: $21-$28. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
THE STAINED GLASS (star)(star)(star) 1735 Benson Ave., Evanston, 847-864-8600. Rarely do food and wine match so beautifully as they do at this North Shore stunner, where chef Victor Hernandez’ superb contemporary-American food is supported by a fine beverage program that offers wines by the bottle, glass, or flight. Recommended: Foie-gras BLT, baked artichoke, lamb rack with white-truffle creme brulee, chocolate cubed dessert. Open: Dinner Mon., Wed.-Sun. Entree prices $14.75-$29.75. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Strongly recommended. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking weekends, no smoking.
ZOCALO (star)(star) 358 W. Ontario St., 312-302-9977. The former Chilpancingo space has had its carnival colors muted to soothing earth tones, but Saul Roman’s Mexican cooking is plenty eye-opening on its own. About three-quarters of the menu consists of small-plate dishes priced from $6-$9, though there are 10 entrees for those who prefer more traditional dining. Service is a bit by the numbers but keeps up with the speedy kitchen. Recommended: Guacamole trio, fish tacos, pork tenderloin, steak Oaxaqueno. Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun., lunch Mon.-Fri. Entree prices: $14-$22. Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V. Reservations: Recommended weekends. Noise: Conversation-friendly. Other: Wheelchair accessible, valet parking, no smoking.
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Ratings key:
OUTSTANDING (star)(star)(star)(star)
EXCELLENT (star)(star)(star)
VERY GOOD (star)(star)
GOOD (star)
SATISFACTORY
UNSATISFACTORY
Reviews are based on no fewer than two visits. The reviewer makes every effort to remain anonymous. Meals are paid for by the Tribune.
