Pierogi Factory
1034 W. Belmont Ave.
773-325-1015
www.pierogifactory.com
The factory: Pierogi Factory sits on a stretch of restaurant-crammed Belmont Avenue, across from burrito factory Chipotle. No matter, this tiny corner eatery has cornered the local dumpling market, serving up more than a dozen kinds of savory pierogi and five kinds of sweet ones, plus a smattering of Eastern European favorites such as borscht and stuffed cabbage. The restaurant is sunny and clean.
Pumping out pierogi: We ordered a shameful amount of food for three people–potato pancakes, borscht, five kinds of pierogi and four drinks. Impressively, our steaming-carb feast arrived within 10 minutes of ordering at lunchtime on a Saturday. Unfortunately, the Factory was out of potato pancakes, so we subbed stuffed cabbage.
Quality control: We like our pierogi slightly chewy, substantial and pretty (kudos for a nice ruffled edge). Fried or boiled, the Factory’s dumplings ($4.99 for 6; $7.99 for 12) were lovely and tasty. The sweet cabbage was a study in subtle contrasts–a little crunchy inside, a little chewy outside. Potato and Cheddar pierogi, topped with thick-cut bacon, onions and sour cream, tasted like indulgently stuffed baked potatoes. Meat dumplings were flavorful purses of dough wrapped around small tasty meatballs. We also thought the sweet cheese pierogi succeeded in not being too sweet. The only disappointment? The cherry pierogi, which burst with too much watery juice and too little flavor. Jewel-like red borscht ($1.99 for a large bowl) impressed with its simplicity, and the large portion of stuffed cabbage ($4.99) happily reminded a fellow diner of his childhood.
Factory workers: Staffers were friendly and efficient. This is as casual as it gets–order at the counter, pick up food and bus your own table. While it can be a recipe for grubbiness, the restaurant remained tidy and clean.
The final product: Portions are huge, prices are terrifically low, the dumplings are hot, filling and tasty. This factory’s products are worth sampling.
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tsouderos@tribune.com
