Reds rule for some folks. Fifty-two weeks a year, through the change of seasons and through good days and bad, these wine lovers persist in the habit, knowing that no white or rose is ever going to make them as happy.
Still, I suspect even the most die-hard red-wine lover is going to wilt a bit at the thought of sipping a warm cab or pinot on hot summer days. Reds also “suffer” in hot weather because they tend to taste “hotter” than whites — due not only to the tannins found in red wines but also the generally higher percentage of alcohol.
What to do? As several Chicago wine pros made clear, there is no one “right” red for the season. The lesson here is to shift tactics. Change the style of wine you drink to find a friendlier match for the season and its foods. And cool the red down; see how below.
Beaujolais and similarly light, fruity reds are one option, according to Howard Silverman of Howard’s Wine Cellar.
Beaujolais, the more serious “cru” or “village” wines, also are the immediate first choice for Jill Gubesch, wine director at Frontera Grill and Topolobampo restaurants in Chicago. But when it comes to a “sweet, tangy barbecue sauce,” her cry is, “Bring on the zin.” Red zinfandel, of course, and at the proper temperature: cool.
Tracy Kellner of Chicago’s Provenance Food & Wine thinks wines like the 2003 Graziano Zinfandel from California’s Mendocino region have the body to stand up to the “zip and spiciness” of barbecue rubs and sauces. The Graziano also has a nice fruitiness that’s good for grilled chicken or tofu, she said. A 2003 Chono Carmenere from Chile’s Maipo Valley has the smokiness to complement charred eggplant or grilled lamb, Kellner added.
Tom Trilla of The Wine Merchant in Crystal Lake recommended a fuller red from Argentina’s Famatina Valley, such as the 2006 LaPuerta Malbec for grilled foods. But he also is taken with the softer profile of the 2005 Domaine du Vieux Chene from France’s Cotes du Rhone region.
Just how helpful, and detailed, a wine pro can be, is clear in the recommendations of Lisa D’Adamo, owner of Tannins wine shop in Elmhurst.
Yep, she picks a Beaujolais — a 2005 Chanrion Cote de Brouilly — like everyone else, but then she gets a bit funky. An Australian shiraz from Pure Love Wines called Layer Cake has a “chocolate and spice” style good with barbecued ribs, she said, while an Italian barbera d’Alba, a 2005 Gagliardo, works with grilled portobello mushrooms, red peppers and eggplant. And, as an alternative to pinot noir, she runs with a 2003 Italian nebbiolo delle Langhe from Produttori del Barbaresco.
“I like this feminine style nebbiolo with grilled fish and have enjoyed it with dishes garnished with citrus and bright herb flavors,” she said.
All of this underscores the basic fact that pretty much no matter what you eat, from fish to lamb to salads, there is bound to be a red wine to suit you.
How to make sense of it all? Talk with your local wine merchant, to begin with. He or she can help you find a red wine that matches your taste, your menu and your budget.
Whatever you choose, remember to chill it down a little bit. Room temperature for red wines means French chateau temperatures, around 55 to 66 degrees. Achieve that by putting the wine in the refrigerator for at least 20 minutes; a full hour works best to reach 63 degrees. Or put that bottle of red in a wine bucket filled with cold water and ice. This method will take about 5 minutes. The easiest course of action? Plop an ice cube in the glass.
– – –
Toasting summer
Here are some red wines we’ve sampled for Uncorked articles that scored near the top of their respective packs. All would make great summer sippers.
2002 Alois Lageder Lagrien Lindenburg
There’s a lively, fresh quality to this red from Italy’s Alto Adige region. Plenty of cherry and plum notes but enough tannins to discreetly shape the flavor. Peppery finish. Serve with grilled chicken, seared duck breast. $23
2005 Trenel Fleurie Clos des Moriers
Sporting a classic cherrylike Beaujolais aroma, this French wine tempers the fruit with intriguing notes of pepper, leather and earth. The profile is deeper, more serious than the lighter styles of Beaujolais. Serve with grilled steak, butterflied leg of lamb. $19
2005 Yellow Tail Shiraz-Grenache
This lively red blend from Australia’s hottest bargain winemaker offers plenty of candied cherry flavor with just enough touches of cinnamon to give some zip. If you can’t find 2005, go with 2006. Serve with spare ribs and anything with bacon. $6
2002 Palandri Boundary Road Shiraz
There’s a pleasant whiff of the cigar box to the aroma of this red from Western Australia. Fruity, spicy. Serve with burgers, shish kebab. $8
— B.D.
———-
wdaley@tribune.com
Bill Daley answers questions on wine, beer and spirits every Sunday in Q. Hear him on WBBM Newsradio 780 at 8:52 a.m., 11:52 a.m., 3:41 p.m., 6:21 p.m. and 10:22 p.m. Tuesdays and 7:52 p.m. Saturdays and Sundays.
